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Originally Posted by GoofyTimL
I know that activation of the ESP will disengage the cruise, but I think that actually turns it off (light on stalk goes out). Doesn't seem that's likely what happened to you. Definitely have it checked with the dealer... they might be able to pick up a thrown code that will pin down the problem IF you have it happen and go directly there without turning off the car.
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I generally run around with ESP off. I never noticed cruise control being disabled or turned off by ESP being on or off. I can understand how, if cruise was on and ESP detected a skid, that it would knock the cruise off. But that's not what's happening. I also thought maybe the "brain" is sensing that the brakes are applied and the cruise is supposed to be off? This car has had several codes involving a faulty brake switch. The last time it had one they finally replaced the switch! I did not pull to the side of the road to see if the brake lights were on. If it happens again, I will!
When this started happening I tried all combinations of ESP on or off when turning on and engaging the cruise control. I even switchedd off my MDS indicator LED circuit. Made no difference. If there is a code it didn't turn on the check engine light. I can easily enough go to my selling stealership, especially on my way home from work when they will have someone on-hand who could do a quick scan. I really don't care to have to visit these people as they really turn me off with their attitude.
However, today I believe I found the gremlin causing the the doorlocks not to function. When I started the car today to do the 18K-mile oil change the EVIC flashed a warning that the RKE battery was low. Ahha I thought, that explains alot! So after finishing the oil change I took a bit of time to review the EVIC which looked like this:
And then I whipped out the owner's manual to see what battery the RKE uses. Interestingly it also said the battery should last a minimum of three years, and DESIREE is only 16 months old.
Kind of strange thought I. And then it got even stranger.
I popped the cover off to get at the battery and what to my wondering eyes should appear but TWO defective solder joints (out of three total) of the "C" clip that mechanically holds the battery disc to the circuit board, and provides electrical connection of the (+) side of the battery to the circuit. The two broken solder joints had allowed the "C" clip to pop up and released the (-) side of the battery from contact with the trace on the circuit board. I didn't think quick enough to take a picture, just set about to repairing the dumb thing. To me it looked like those solder joints may have let go when the battery was first originally inserted. Or they were cold joints to start with and just gave up mechanically. The clip does exert quite a bit of force on the battery. Sliding the battery back in after fixing the solder joints required due care to get the battery slipped into and under the clip.
Well at least I don't have to bring this gremlin to the stealership to be discovered.