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2006 SRT8 stalls at idle

14K views 26 replies 9 participants last post by  Chase023 
#1 ·
So I bought a 2006 300C SRT8 back in June of this year and I love it. When Ibought it, she only had the valet key so we bought keys from Amazon and had them cut and programed. Only one of them programmed but wasnt too worried about it. But now that we have had her for over 6 months she randomly stalls out with no check engine light but fires right back up. doesnt matter if i just filled up or if im at 1/4 tank. some days itll die 10 times somedays it wont at all....im at a loss right now....any thoughts would be a major help
 
#2 ·
Did the car have the lifetime gas tank replacement warranty service performed on it prior to your purchasing it?
 
#7 ·
From the 2005 service manual:
P2172-HIGH AIRFLOW/VACUUM LEAK DETECTED (INSTANTANEOUS ACCUMULATION) When Monitored: Ignition on and engine running with no MAP Sensor DTCs.
Set Condition: A large vacuum leak has been detected or both of the TP Sensors have failed based on their position being
2.5 volts and the calculated MAP value is less than the actual MAP minus an Offset value. One trip fault and
the code will set within 5 seconds. ETC light will flash.
Possible Causes:
VACUUM LEAK
RESISTANCE IN THE (F856) 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT
(F856) 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
RESISTANCE IN THE (K1) MAP SIGNAL CIRCUIT
(K1) MAP SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
RESISTANCE IN (K900) SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT
RESISTANCE IN THE (F855) 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT
(F855) 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
RESISTANCE IN THE TP SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT
TP SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
RESISTANCE IN THE (K922) TP SENSOR RETURN CIRCUIT
MAP SENSOR
TP SENSOR
PCM
 
#9 ·
Start by cleaning your throttle body and checking the seal to the manifold. Usually that can cause the issue...

Any signs the intake manifold has been off at any point like tool marks on the manifold bolts?
 
#10 ·
Ok so update on Rocket (thats our name for the 300c srt8). I disconnected the throttle body connection and the MAP sensor (I think thats what the sensor in the intake tube is called) and started the car and let her run for about a minute. she ran funky for the duration then shut her off and reconnected everything and pulled fuse 11 for about 2 min. reinserted fuse 11 and she ran great.......for about 3 days then she shut off on my fiance again. no codes again this time.....intake manifold doesnt have any marks like its been removed before.....looks like all thats been done is a K&N CAI and axle back exhaust...... Im very mechanically inclinde but this has me stumped. i even called my buddy at my old dealership that has 20+ years at dodge/chrysler (which is in northern Illinois and i now live in central South Carolina) and he doesnt know without looking at it. Im stumped. Had an oil change and tire rotation done last weekend and they just brushed off the problem. not sure what else to look at.
 
#11 ·
Did you clean the throttle body yet bud or check the seal between the throttle body and manifold?

You can also start the car and run some propane from a small propane torch around manifold and see if the revs hunt at all... May give an indication of any leaks if there are any...

When you said... Just shut off on my wife... You mean it just died? Or died with a cough and a splutter? I'd also look at the cam position sensor and the crank sensor... But the code earlier may indicate a vacuum leak somewhere.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I'm gunna pull the throttle body off this weekend. I did the propane check and I had one spot on the passenger side of the intake manifold, 3rd runner from the front. But it didn't really hunt...but kinda stumbled slightly.....think it may upper intake gaskets and should I still pull off the throttle body from the manifold?

Also I don't really hear a hiss under the hood like a vacuum leak but it's hard to hear over the K&N CAI.......
 
#18 ·
You tightened the intake to spec? No chance it could have pulled in the gasket or had a spot for a bad seal?

Now you have a good seal (imagining everything is good there) I'd look to a crank position sensor next followed by or at the same time as a cam position sensor.

If you are not getting the code anymore and have no codes then both of them could cause a motor to cut out quick and may or may not trigger a MIL.

There are other things as well from here but these two little parts do fail and are the cheapest start...
 
#17 ·
06 SRT doesn't have a mass air flow sensor and an IAT will not make the car run rough in most cases... There is a very slight chance it might if it reading a wrong intake temp and throwing the mixture off but doubtful on the hemi as there are far more involved sensors that would pick that up after the charge air temp was determined.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Ok so I pulled the intake back off to make sure the gaskets hadn't moved. Everything right where they should be. Torqued the manifold back down and good for 2 days bit I learned if I unhook the throttle body and air temp sensor, let it sit and reconnect she runs good for a couple days.....could it be the throttle body or air temp sensor?
 
#20 ·
AIT shouldn't make any real difference to idle... However TB could for sure... Have you tried a recalibration? I'll see if I can find the steps...
 
#21 ·
Im about blow my baby up!!!! Found 3 bad plugs so a spark plug change was due. Ran great for 12 hrs......today went to town and it died twice when I came out of the store. Never got out of the parking spot. Lightening bolt flashed at me and a p2172 popped up.....shut her off and waited a minute. Started up and was fine till I got home with no code..... started it up and died within 15 seconds...tried again and same thing. unplugged TB and started it ran funky for a min then died plugged the throttle body back in and started it. Ran for 2 min then died.....I've changed all vacuum hoses and checked all plastic hoses to purge solinoid all are good no leaks. Replaced intake gaskets to fix the bad one and I still have this problem some days are better than others......I'm at the point of throwing parts at it and I don't want to do that. How can I test the TB and MAP sensor? It's my last thoughts
 
#22 ·
Ok so im gunna revive this. I've had the torque converter shutter and it's going to Demon Performance Thursday to get a 550whp converter put in and they are going to dig on it and see what they can find. I've changed intake gaskets, spark plugs, throttle body and vacuum lines. But now she will be running down the road and sometimes the car acts weird so I'll try to explain as best I can.

Going down the road the car will sometimes shut off (and by shut off I mean tach goes to 0 and the dash reads as if the engine is off but the key is on. I'll get the battery light and the lightning bolt.) Car will jerk hard like it's slamming in park.then everything comes back on and she's going down the road like nothing happened..........

Could the torque converter cause all this?
I still have the low rpm and stopped at a light stall. Some days it's fine some days it's a chore to get out my driveway.

Drove it last week and the weekend with no problems then today she started her sh*t again.........

What do you guys think?
 
#23 ·
when you go WOT does it sometimes cut out and then come back after you let off the pedal? or is this only happen when cruiseing?
 
#25 ·
i remember this happening and i was told by a couple people that it was a bad pcm and that it would randomly lose connection...... but i did here from a tech at the dealer that new coils would fix it, apparently something about the feedback on some of the original coils caused a problem.
 
#26 ·
I had this exact problem: "Going down the road the car will sometimes shut off (and by shut off I mean tach goes to 0 and the dash reads as if the engine is off but the key is on. I'll get the battery light and the lightning bolt.) Car will jerk hard like it's slamming in park.then everything comes back on and she's going down the road like nothing happened.........."

It was the recalled gas tank. Have you had the tank replaced by the dealer?
 
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