Rear Diff, any DIY tips? - Chrysler 300C Forum: 300C & SRT8 Forums
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Old 09-06-2015, 10:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Rear Diff, any DIY tips?

I'm at a little over 29K miles on my 2012 SRT8 and am about to perform the service myself. I contacted Lucas oil and confirmed their 75w90 synthetic meets Chrysler's requirements. Their rep stated it has the necessary friction modifier in it already but if I hear any noise to go ahead and add 1/2 the recommended amount (recommended amount is 4oz). I have everything ready to go, just waiting for a mild day and some time. Couldn't find any youtube vids or DIY instructions specific to our vehicle so I thought I'd start a thread.

I jacked up the car and found it uses a large allen tool to access the drain and fill plugs. A co-worker recommended opening the fill plug first incase it refuses to open. But that's about the extent of my knowledge on this DIY job.

Any tips?
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Old 09-07-2015, 06:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Its a simple job, the only thing special you will need is a small hand pump to pump the fluid into the diif - it's nearly impossible to get it directly from the bottle into the differential. Open the top plug first.
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Old 09-07-2015, 07:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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And - don't over fill!
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:49 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northern Rider View Post
And - don't over fill!
Correct me if I'm wrong, but you fill until the oil reaches the fill hole and starts to dribble out. Pretty much impossible to overfill, unless you tilt the car up on its side.

Also, there is a vent at the top of the diff and it is not unusual for some oil to blow out the first couple of times that you drive the car hard. So if you see some drops under the car don't worry, unless it's a lot of oil or if it doesn't stop after a week or so. I put some newspaper down where I park the car to monitor it.
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:52 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I also wrap the allen bolts with Teflon Plumbing Tape before I reinstall them as an extra precaution against leaking.
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:53 AM   #6 (permalink)
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That's ok, if you don't mind the oil blow-by as the temperature increases in the differential.

For me, as a racer, that blow-by can hit the rear brakes and cause serious issues in corners at speed. I know this, from first hand experience.
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:58 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I see your point. How do you measure?
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Old 09-07-2015, 10:17 AM   #8 (permalink)
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We now leave a couple of centimetres of airspace at the top, as we fill up.
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Old 09-07-2015, 05:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks for these tips. I did purchase a hand pump already thanks to my brother mentioning it.

I performed the service today, didn't read about measuring until now. The "blowby" may explain why I could put my finger in and not touch the fluid yet no signs of recent (or ever) leaks. The job was super easy. I had to use a cheater bar to get the fill plug open but that's because I didn't have enough room/leverage to really torque it. My 10mm warble head Allen tool came in handy too, I purchased a set on Amazon for like $12 for use on a 3/8" socket driver... Incase anyone needs to know I used only 1oz of the Mopar friction modifier. The instructions on the bottle are to use 2-5% by volume of the friction modifier. The rear diffs on the '12 SRT8 take ~40oz of gear oil according to the manual so that means only 2oz would be required but the Lucas oil guy recommended using only 1/2 the MFG requirement since their product already has friction modifier so I used an oil syringe to inject 1 oz.

I did snag a sample and will send that off to Blackstone labs just to satisfy my curiosity. Gauging by the look of the oil I removed I'd say it was a good idea to change it. With 29,204 miles on the odometer the oil came out pitch black. But the lab analysis will eliminate all guess work.

I video recorded the process and if I get the time I'll make a DIY, post on YouTube and share the link here. If anything glaring (either good or bad) comes of the lab analysis I'll report back. Other than that I drove it about two miles around the neighborhood. I didn't notice any difference except when turning the first corner from my house to the main road - when cold I usually hear a faint thud (very faint) and see the traction control flash for a millisecond; after the change it didn't do that. Not sure if that's just because I was looking for it or if the new fluid actually helped in some way. On my way to work, five mile commute on urban streets, I could occasionally hear a faint noise, maybe coming from the diff but maybe just normal transmission noise. If I hadn't worked on the diff it was so small I wouldn't have paid attention but I'm thinking I may add another ounce of that friction modifier. (Any insight on this welcome)
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Last edited by Paul S. Safford; 09-07-2015 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 09-08-2015, 09:59 AM   #10 (permalink)
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As promised, I made a DIY on the process: https://youtu.be/-z-kl4fBCIM
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