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2011 300C HID Retrofit Project

6K views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  Crunkz1 
#1 · (Edited)
2011 Chrysler 300C FX-R Retrofit Project Using OEM Mounting Hardware

BACKGROUND
We liked everything about about our 300C except the poorly designed, inadequate and downright dangerous headlights. I researched alternatives for quite a while before coming to the conclusion that retrofitting the stock headlights with a high quality complete HID projector system was the best performing, cost-effective solution.

Alternatives investigated were:
1. Direct driving the original lights by providing 12vdc directly from the battery through a high quality relay activated by the low beam signal. This significantly reduced the voltage drop at the headlight bulbs produced by the marginal stock wiring. This inexpensive mod somewhat improved the light output but not enough and did nothing to resolve the other problems.
2. Replacing the halogen bulbs with HIDs in the stock projectors. I rejected this solution because HID bulbs are 2 to 3 times as bright as halogen and the filament / projector bowl combination would scatter light all over the road blinding drivers approaching or in front of you in your lane. The projector must be designed around the bulb used. HID projectors have a much wider reflector bowl than the halogen projector and will focus the light where it belongs.
3. Purchasing Chrysler 300 OEM (Mobis) HID headlight housings on ebay. These are relatively expensive even used and may require software changes to make them work in a car without the light package with HIDs. People who have tried this could not get any useful dealer support and gave up. I probably could have made this work but was not convinced that the oem HIDs were as good as the best retrofit.
4. Install the best quality retrofit system (Projector housings, digital ballasts, HID bulbs and wiring harnesses) available. This led me to the Morimoto FX-R stage 3 with Morimoto ballasts and HID bulbs sold and supported by TRS in the Atlanta area. I called them a couple of times with questions and they provided excellent support before the sale.

My primary concern was how to precision mount and aim each projector. I did not really want to kleuge up mounting brackets that could move around and was hoping to find a way to modify the stock halogen projector mounting yoke so that the mounting and aiming mechanism was essentially the same as stock. Fortunately, after some work, I was able to selectively trim metal away to allow the medium sized FX-R projectors to fit into the modified oem yoke system. This is straightforward with the detail and photos that follow. The key is to take your time and trim away only as much as needed; while testing the fit as you go.

I purchased the entire retrofit projector system from The Retrofit Source (TRS) in the Atlanta area. I am very pleased with the quality of the hardware thus far. A few hardware items were bought at Lowes or Home Depot and are called out in the detail.

TRS parts list follows:
2 x 35W: Morimoto XB35 Ballast
2 x FX-R 3.0 (3" Lens/LHD) Left hand drive
2 x Morimoto XB Igniter (D2S)
2 x D2S: XB 5500K HID bulbs
No Shrouds needed
2 x Canbus: 9005/9006/9012/H10 this will eliminate any Canbus issues caused by transients when the igniters energize the HID bulbs
1x Dual Relay Harness this will ensure max. filtered battery power to the ballasts and will prevent HID startup transients from making the lights flash on and off (recommended)
1 x Black: RetroRubber(roll) Butyl rubber is used by many oems and ensures that moisture will not get into the headlight housings when re-assembled) Saves time.
Total cost was under $ 300 including the additional hardware.

Here is the installed HID retrofit plus Hella Micro DE fog lights (retrofit using oem fog light mounting hardware.)



Below is a typical beam pattern of a 2011 halogen projector. My car was not even this good.


Pictured below is the low beam cutoff pattern from the retrofitted FX-R projectors. No comparison to the pathetic halogen beam pattern!


Below is the FX-R High beams. This what an HID projector high beam should look like. The original halogen projectors directed light almost straight up with no distance improvement.


Detailed steps

Step 1: With the new HID projectors in hand, connect and test the assembled HID projector system (assemble ballast, canbuss harness, supplied test harness, ballast to igniter harness, igniter to back of HID bulb). Connect the test harness to a 12v battery and verify that the HID bulb illuminates properly. A slight delay is normal and it may take a few seconds for the output to stabilize.

Step 2: Test the cutoff shield and solenoid. Locate the two wires connected to the cutoff shield solenoid. The Morimoto FX R is cutoff shield solenoid is not polarity sensitive. Momentarily connect one wire to the plus terminal of a 12v battery and the other to the minus a few dozen times to ensure the shield and solenoid move freely with no interference.

Step 3: Remove the “front bumper cover” to gain access to the headlight assemblies. This is really easier than it might seem. Refer to the following video to see the steps required to remove the top apron plastic rivets, fender well rivets , 10 mm bolt on each fender well and the trim screws (7 mm) along the bottom of the cover. Place this on a soft surface or carpet to protect it. Here is the link: http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...F979FDD5438AD8F967CBF979FDD5438AD8F&FORM=VIRE

Step 4: Remove both headlight assemblies and finish one before starting on the other. Four bolts and a ten pin connector at the bottom rear of each assembly must be unlocked and disconnected to free the headlight. In the steps to follow we will carefully open each headlight assembly to remove the original halogen projector assembly, refit the new xenon projector and remount everything in the headlight assembly, connect / change appropriate wiring, then seal and replace the lens cover on to the headlight housing.

Step 5: Open the headlight assembly to remove and replace the original projector. Generally, this entails heating the headlight assembly at a temperature necessary to soften the butylrubber seal and to separate the clear lens from the housing. I heated it in my homemade oven for 8-10 minutes at 200F to 220F. You can make an oven from a box lined with insulation or use an oven. Take care not to damage the housing or lens; it may take multiple passes to get the seal released and the halves apart. Be sure to carefully release the retainers holding the two parts together. Place the housing on a towel or block of wood in the oven. Protect the plastic lens from scratches or from coming in contact with the butyl rubber. If you make your own oven and use a heat gun to provide the heat, taking care not to direct the heat gun directly toward the housing as it can be damaged.
There are numerous videos that show how to do this. Here is one example: http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...BBEB92FEAD98A2D0106DBBEB92FEAD98A2D&FORM=VIRE . TRS has several helpful videos on their website.

Step 6: Now that the lens is removed, separate the halogen projector from the mounting frame/yoke. This is very simple as the projector is held on by four quick disconnect posts; a 5/16 hex driver can be placed over each of the posts to compress the retaining ears to release the aluminum yoke.

The photo below shows the yoke and the hex driver placed over one post.


Here is the housing with the projector and mounting yoke removed. You can see the four nylon mounting posts which snap into the yoke; very slick. Route and secure the cabling with tie wraps to keep wiring neat and in place.


Step 7: Trim the yoke to allow fitting new FX R projector
This process removes just enough material from the mounting yoke to allow the new FX-R projector to fit into it. Use a rotary tool such as a dremel and a medium cutter to carefully remove material. Gradually remove the interfering material, frequently test fitment as you go.

Here is the yoke with the original halogen projector removed and ready to be trimmed down.


Here is the modified yoke ready to receive the FX-R projector. Notice that the two mounting posts shown in the lower third of the image have been trimmed off in addition to removing material in several other areas. The small black marks are sharpie dots to show where trimming was needed. Black ovals show the general areas where material was removed.


Here are the modified yoke and new FX R projector. Note that the cutoff shield solenoid wire has already been connected to the oem connector. This allows the stock wiring to properly control the high beam and low beam positions of the cutoff shield.



Shown below are two images of the mated parts after the trimming was completed.
It is important that the front of the new projector fits all the way into the yoke. Note that two metric screws with washers hold the two parts together mechanically. Two original threaded mounting holes on the yoke are used for mounting the new projector. Take the two original mounting metric mounting screws to Lowes / Home Depot to match the thread pitch. I believe thay are M5 x 25 screws but am not certain. A washer is placed behind each screw head to gain purchase on the raised shoulder; you might epoxy this point if you are concerned that they could move. Use locktite on the screws after rotational alignment is done.





Step 8: Before replacing the lens, fit the retrofitted housing back onto the car to check for rotational alignment. Image below shows, new FX-R remounted on the car for testing. This view shows the stock frame holding the new projector and snapped onto the stock headlight mounting posts. This is a good time to adjust the cutoff line. With this method, the FX-Rs can be easily adjusted up and down with the stock adjuster.



Loosen the two screws that hold the projector into the yoke and rotate the projector housing if necessary. This should allow perfect rotational alignment. When you are satisfied, replace the headlight housing lens. Do this work carefully because moisture could intrude into the housing if not sealed properly.
TIPS: Remove any excess left over butyl rubber fragments after the separation (not necessary to remove ever bit of it). Carefully apply the new butyl rubber rolled tubing using the instructions. Ensure that the lense retaining tabs are engaged prior to placing the housing back into the oven for resealing. Plan to clamp and reseal multiple times, if necessary, until the parts are fully seated.
Here is a rear view of one headlight housing with the FX R projectors mounted. Note the igniter (silver component on left side) on the back of the HID bulb and the pigtail of the igniter cable entering through the cap grommet on the right side. The stock cap is removed for the photo. The funnel shaped adjuster has a pinion at the bottom that tilts the projector up or down. A long, large Philips works well; turn gently.



Step 9 Alignment: Locate a large flat wall adjacent to a level floor (such as a garage door and driveway. You will need about 50 ft. in front of the wall to place your car. Measure the distance from the center of the HID lens to the ground (for example, 30 in.). Place the car square to the wall with the headlights 25 ft from the wall. Mark the Headlight center on the wall for each side with masking tape. Connect these points with masking tape to create a line. Measure down 2.0 in. and create another line at this height. Adjust the driver side headlight so that the lower step of the beam touches this line. Adjust the passenger side so that the upper step is in line with the driver side upper line. There are several online explanations and videos of this of this procedure A quick visual check is to note where your cutoff hits the back of a car approx 50 ft in front of you; it should be around the bumper / license plate area and below the side mirrors. ENSURE THAT YOUR HEADLIGHTS WILL NOT BLIND OTHER DRIVERS on low beams!

I have been using these for about 7 weeks with no problems. The bulbs have always fired thus far and the improvement in light is immense. I finally enjoy driving the 300C at night.


This completes the mechanical / optical retrofit. TRS provides electrical connection diagrams on their site. I will add some additional tips soon.

I hope that this will help any 2011 thru 2014 Chrysler 300 owners who want to upgrade their headlights.
 
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#4 ·
Do you have any photos that shows a good closeup of the projector and stock shroud with the interior bezel piece mounted all up and whatnot? Trying to get an idea of how much room there will be in the area if i took out the stock shroud and tried to fit in an aftermarket shroud with possibly slight trimming of the interior bezel piece that that surrounds the projector..
 
#5 ·
OP - Need informational replies ..

I've had issues with your mounting suggestion. I've found that using your method and trimming the OEM bracket, I could still not get a flush lens fitment from the FX-R Projector on the OEM bracket. Further more I filed down more metal to the point where threads almost show from the two top mounting holes and have achieved fitment - HOWEVER - the two bolts interfere with the mounting points on the projector itself, thus not allowing for a flush fitment on the OEM bracket.

Do you have any photos of your lens fitment at the circle of the OEM bracket?

I've had to ditch the bolts and go with Quick-Steel while aiming. I will post a separate thread for anyone who's interested in this method. My FX-R Projector sits flush on the OEM bracket.
 
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