My 300 has around 5-6,000 miles since the last oil change. Weird thing is that my oil change interval says it's still 45% good on the oil change setting on the dash.
I came across a video that says it automatically determines when to change your oil? Do you guys know if that's true or not? Is the oil change setting based on mileage?
Going to switch over to full Mobil 1 synthetic and a k&n oil filter on the next change. Just seems like it's been a lot of miles and at this rate I feel like I would hit 10,000 miles before the indicator went to 0%???
Any tips or feedback would be appreciated. Thank you!
On this topic, I went to the Mobil1 site and it suggests 5w-20 (or) 0w-20 for my vehicle ('15 300s 3.6).
MADDOG or any of the guys out there, do any of you have the knowledge to explain the difference, benefits or issues with choosing one over the other for my car? The 0W-20 indicates is for alot of import hybrids, etc. yet says is an alternate for my car??
Some basic info: current mileage=400, I drive alot of short, stop&go midwest city/urban trips & expressway traffic blocks. The car stays low-mile on the odo, but it's generally tough miles. (last car= 61K in 17yrs). I really have no knowledge-base on this for the new car. Would appreciate suggestions on what's best for the motor before I do the initial switch-over.
Maddog already addressed your issue, but I thought I'd throw this in too. No such thing as too much information when it comes to cars.
I ran Mobil 1 for my old WJ Jeep 4.7L from new, in addition I did use K&N oil filters. No issues & the motor is clean as a whistle after 17yrs.
Anyhow, I am also switching my new 300 to Mobil 1 and again, planned on using K&N oil filters. Couple weeks back, my 300 went into 'ship-mode' by itself, all electronic accessories, Nav, ambient lights, etc were down so I took the car into my dealer. I have know several people there for over 15 years and one of the techs worked on my cars issue. When he brought me back in the shop to tell me what happened with my car, we were talking classic cars & some gearhead stuff. I told him I was gonna run synthetic with K&N filter on the new ride. He liked/endorsed the synthetic idea, but told me in his opinion, and said mainly due to the more complex design details of this particular filter... that I should only use the Mopar OEM filter on my car. He said many of the aftermarket versions (cheap or pricey), of this particular filter don't always get everything just right in the final product and "better safe than sorry with your car".
For myself, I trust these guys to the end, so I'm sticking with Mopar OEM filters and Mobil 1 syn.
My understanding is the numbers represent flow rate when cold 0w- then 20 when at operating temperature.
So 5w will have better flow than 0w on start up.
Its actually the rate of breakdown of oil particles in how they are designed to work.
Your choice of oil depends on vehicle how cold or hot the State/country plus the mileage of the vehicle.
That's my understanding..
Oh plus a performance motor over a stocky as well..
* Great info... much appreciated. So, sounds like I should use the 5W-20 then.
No perf stuff this time, stock 3.6 just w/CAI for DD. Standard HP (300) is plenty for DD purposes & gives gr8 gas mileage for such a big car, besides I didn't have a choice. Originally wanted the V8, mainly though only because I tell myself it would be my last one ever in a new car the way things are headed. This car was the only one around that was a leftover brand new '15 but had the S pckg, pano & Nav. I could not pass up the double Chrysler discount $$ they put on the table to move it, it was alot.
Funny how things change... this 300 weighs the same as my '79 Cadillac, which has a 5.7L V8 with OEM Bosch/Bendix MPFI, TONS of torque, but... only 180hp. The 300s is waay more responsive than my Cadillac or the Jeep GCL 4.7L, and light years ahead of both in fuel economy, all while being large and a real looker, unlike most all new stuff out there now
My oil monitor will let me know to change the oil at around 8,500 miles, but I change it about 6,000 miles, and have been doing it roughly at that mileage for this car, and for a lot of years on all of my cars. I do follow the manufactured recommended grade, however I don't follow the automatic oil monitoring systems. They do a fairly good job of reminding those who may not be as maintenance wise as some of us. With today's engines and conventional oil quality, I am sure I could follow my the car's oil monitor without causing any problems. My older GM car, an 06, has a little over 175,000 miles on it and it purrs like a kitten, having its oil changed regularly at about 6k, and using conventional oil. While some swear by very short oil change intervals and synthetic oil, there is another school of thought (and a lot of studies) that show it is a waste of time and money. I tend to believe it is too.
Whatever type of oil people chose to use, there's no doubt in what you are saying, and I have always followed it. Oil is the life-blood of a car and to blow off regular changes is just nuts. Especially given the consequences of not following regular preventative maintenance, motor oil or otherwise.
Cheapest way to help any car last so much longer with big odds that you'll have far less $$ stuff to deal with as years pass by.
Mark, a good oil and filter are very Important, for the life of the engine.
I have to agree with how good the V6s go, my old car was a 13 300C all the bells and whistles V6 8 Sp fuel mileage was 650kms plus,
Plus the car went great for V6 and being so big and heavy..
This new one I'm looking for fuel at 350-400kms lol... but a lot more fun..
For what it is worth, the owners manual recommends the following and that is all I look for.
For best performance and maximum protection under all
types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only
recommends engine oils that are API Certified and meet
the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395.
American Petroleum Institute (API) Engine Oil
Identification Symbol
This symbol means that the oil has
been certified by the American
Petroleum Institute (API). The
manufacturer only recommends
API Certified engine oils.
does anyone use any sort of a table that can help to understand what oil type suits the car? As far as I know there is a relation btw the engine type, year of the car and other aspects. There are so many things to consider. It’s not just “go to the store, buy some sort of synthetic oil and feed your car with it..”
For instance, when it comes to Cruiser PT:
• Make sure you buy good Synthetic 5w40 for Diesel oil for motor with code CRD/OM664.
• If 4.8 liters of oil isn’t enough and you need to add it.
• It’s time to give good service and pour only Synthetic 5w40 for Diesel oil to motors with code CRD/OM664. http://cararac.com/engine_oil/chrysler/pt-cruiser.html
The codes are important and you can find them on expert websites.
Btw if u don’t trust many things on internet, like me for example, use the official resources.
There’s nothing better than a manual from the official website of the manufacturer: http://www.chrysler.com/en/owners/manuals/
Just enter your model and voila.
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