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Old 02-05-2012, 09:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Stereo Upgrade

Hello 300 world. I have a 2011 300c with the Alpine upgrade (9 speakers/504 watt amp) and I am not satisfied with the audio quality. Played with the EQ, reminded me of the old "tone" buttons, and still cannot find great audio. So...upgrade time. A couple of quick questions:

1. What is the ohm load of the factory setup? 2/4/8?
2. Does anyone know of the Audio Control equipment Line output converters for factory integration? Saw some propaganda videos and am looking for some real world experience.
3. Looking to add some tweeters. JL or MB Quart are brands I am targeting. Any recommendations?
4. Subwoofers...wanting to do a smaller box. I do not want to shake the trunk, just fill in the sound. Will a Alpine 8' Type R be too small?

Love the community and could use some help.
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Old 02-05-2012, 11:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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My experience with two MOPAR vehicles was that the stock system is a 2 ohm system. The stock amps, in a word, suck. I know it says Alpine...mine said Kicker. Neither company has a bad rep and makes some nice stuff. But I think the MOPAR engineer who specs the factory system is tone deaf. I ended up swapping everything out on my car and my truck.

I have an Audio Control LC6i 6 channel line output converter with summing. It gives me a high quality pre-amp signal for my Audison amp. The stock amp stays in place to provide that initial signal to the LC6i. Without it, I'd get a weak signal (or no signal at all) to the aftermarket amp. Comparing the system sound with and without the piece you can definitely hear the difference. The LC6i lets you add those aftermarket processors and amps while maintaining use of the factory volume and steering wheel controls.

I initially tried a set of Alpine speakers in the doors and rear deck along with some Infinity Kappa 3.5's in the dash with the stock amp. It improved but still sounded as if it lacked a great deal of power and quality.

So now I have:
  • Hertz HSK-163 3 way component speakers in the front. The tweets are mounted in the upper portion of the door panels.
  • Alpine SPS-609 6x9's in the rear deck for fill.
  • Audison LRx 4.1K amplifier (the 4.1 means 4 + 1 mono)
  • A Focal 33A 13" subwoofer
  • Audio Control ACR-1 variable audio control knob mounted in the center console.
The only stock piece, besides the REC/NAV head unit, is the stock Kicker main amp which provides that signal to the Audison.


An 8" sub in the trunk won't be heard. I'd go at least 10" Type R with a 500W amp (MRP-M500) and a variable gain control knob.


JL makes some good stuff but ya gotta give them some power. Running them on the stock amp will be an improvement but you'll be looking for more soon. Infinity Kappa series are a nice, bright, tweeter but bouncing them off the windshield might sound a bit harsh to you. Any tweet there did to me so that's why mine are in the door panels.

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2006 300C SRT8
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Old 02-05-2012, 02:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Maddog...thanks so much. Like I said...I love this community and the value of keeping us from making mistakes. I agree with you about the Alpine upgrade, junk. Don't waste your money. To your points:

1. I am looking at the Audio Control LC2i for the preamp, Alpine MRX-M50 (300 watts - 4 ohm) or JL Audio XD 300, and the now the JL Audio CP110-W0v3 ported Bass wedge (4 ohm).
2. This begs the question of should I look to build a sytem with a 2 ohm woofer or just have less power? Can I wire the JL Basswedge in 2 ohm configuration?
3. As an alternative, I am thinking of preparing for the future by going with a 5 channel amp and possibly repacing speaker with aftermarket gear in the future.
4. I may hold off on the tweeters and play with the "tone" button once the woofer is added.

I know enough about car stereo to be a little dangerous and am experienced in complete systems vs. factory integration. I am a little fuzzy on ohm loads but understand a stable amp at lower ohms produces more power. Thanks.
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Old 02-05-2012, 02:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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My responses are:

1. The LC2i will be a good addition, as will the Alpine. The Alpines have a bit of a higher noise floor than the JL amps so what I'd do is listen to the speakers you select with both amps and make your decision from there. When you go with an amp, match the ohms put out by the amp to what the speaker is rated at. Add a little wattage RMS on the amp specs to what the speaker is rated at to give you some head room. I have the JL XD 300 in my truck pushing a Hertz HSK 165 2-way system. It sounds pretty good. I also have an Alpine MRP-M500 sub amp driving a 10" Alpine Type S sub. It works for the truck pretty well.

2. I'd do the same thing with the woofer. Find a woofer & amplifier combo that works together. Listen to a few. JL makes some nice amps so matching an amp (ohms & wattage) to the sub is the last thing you'll have to do. Give yourself some headroom (more RMS wattage from the amp than the speaker requires) so you aren't stressing the amp just to meet the speaker's needs.

3. A good 5 channel amp saves room and, in my case, works pretty well. The same conditions apply as mentioned above. You won't realize the potential of your amplifier upgrade until you do something with the speakers.

4. Again, you won't realize full benefit of your amplifier upgrade until you replace the tweeters. Just be advised that most will sound a bit "bright" bouncing off the glass. I will qualify that statement saying that they sound bright, sometimes harsh, to me when they bounce off the glass.
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Old 02-09-2012, 06:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Well...all my stuff is coming in and I have discovered a new problem. I am needing to tap into a speaker wire in order to get the LC2i working but the problem is that I need a full range signal in order to use my 5 channel amp in full range. Problem is that the speakers in the back of the car are 2 6x9 midwoofers and 1 8" subwoofer as part of the Alpine upgraded factory system. Neither of these speakers will provide the full range needed so I called Crutchfield (where I bought it from) for some advice. They suggested tapping into the speaker wires as the left the head unit and before they went into the amp and got crossovered. Problem is that there are 10 speakers and which ones are L vs R and + vs -? Any suggestions on pulling a full range speaker wire to the LC2i?
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Old 03-27-2012, 09:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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just leave the ass kicking alpine alone what are u thinking
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Beg to differ JohnnyReno. Ass kicking system if you like mid's and midbass. Weak on the highs and extremly weak on the lows. Got everything installed and tuned the bass to fill in low end of spectrum and....wow...what a difference sub/amp makes. Sounds like a more complete system. Doesn't rattle the trunk but fills the car with sweet sounding bass!
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Does this help any http://mofv.com/mygig/


Last edited by tsgtbarclay; 03-28-2012 at 11:39 PM.
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:31 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Natisfaction, where you able to keep the steering wheel controls, Uconnect, Nav and Voice Recognition after tapping into the wires for your LC2i? Is the LC2i like a JL clean sweep?

Thanks
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