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Step 3: Cutting and Splicing

The right rear blinker is controlled from plug C1 of the Integrated Power Module at pin 17. That wire is WHITE/YELLOW and goes back to the rear lamp. Cut the WHITE/YELLOW wire on C1 and splice it into plug C2 of the FCM at pin 8. That wire is WHITE/TAN. This signal controls the right front blinker.

Similarly, the left rear blinker is controlled from plug C3 of the Integrated Power Module at pin 3. That wire is WHITE/DARK GREEN and goes back to the rear lamp. Again, cut the WHITE/DARK GREEN wire on C3 and splice it into the plug C2 of the FCM at pin 10. That wire is WHITE/LIGHT GREEN. This signal controls the left front blinker.

This places the rear blinkers in parallel with the front blinkers and will bypass the "brake light" signal sent to the rear (Base/Touring) lamps via the non-"C" FCM firmware/software.

Note: I did not cut the wires on plug C2. I used a razor blade to remove a bit of the wire isulation, then wrapped the stripped ends of the wires from C1 and C3 on the exposed portions of the (C2) wires. Solder the 2 connections and wrap with black tape. Leave about 2 inches of wire on plugs C1 and C3 to allow you to attach ballasts/resistors. It is also neccesary to add extra length to the wires coming from C1 and C3 to keep the install tidy.

Re-wrap the three wiring bundles with black tape to retain the "factory" look of the install. Take your time and do it right! Remember to leave the 2 (cut off) short leads from C1 and C3 accessible for the next step.

Reconnect the 3 plugs to the IPM and FCM.

Now, the FCM realizes there is an (open) fault with the (now missing) rear turn signals. A "fast flash" scenario occurs, so dummy loads (ballasts or resistors) will need to be added to the two unattached leads and tied to ground to fool the FCM. In the next step you will attach the two hanging leads from C1 and C3 to ballasts or resistors and then the other end to ground. That will fix the "fast flash" issue. If the "fast flash" situation does not bother you, you can just insulate the two leads with heat shrink tubing and/or black tape, and skip Step 4.