If you don't mind me asking, other than looks is there another reason to get these? Reason being, I was talking to a break specialist yesterday and he mentioned that unless we are racing or the rotors are going to be at extreme high temps, he wouldn't recommend the slotted or drilled. He stated that the pads will be worn/shaved from the slots and holes thus wearing faster and there might also be some brake noice.
Just wanted to pass that on. I was looking into this also.
Good Luck and hope this might help.....
__________________
Mods: To much to list here... Although that isn't a bad thing... Just ask if you are realy curious..
If you don't mind me asking, other than looks is there another reason to get these? Reason being, I was talking to a break specialist yesterday and he mentioned that unless we are racing or the rotors are going to be at extreme high temps, he wouldn't recommend the slotted or drilled. He stated that the pads will be worn/shaved from the slots and holes thus wearing faster and there might also be some brake noice.
Just wanted to pass that on. I was looking into this also.
Good Luck and hope this might help.....
Yeah its really just for looks. I did this on my old Escalade with 24s and it really makes a big difference in looks. I used the Baer Eradispeeds. Never had any issue with pads wearing out that quickly on the Lade or any brake noise. My 300C is more for show than go. And just adding the rotor really makes the wheel area look a lot better, especially with an open spoked rim like I have.
If you don't mind me asking, other than looks is there another reason to get these? Reason being, I was talking to a break specialist yesterday and he mentioned that unless we are racing or the rotors are going to be at extreme high temps, he wouldn't recommend the slotted or drilled. He stated that the pads will be worn/shaved from the slots and holes thus wearing faster and there might also be some brake noice.
Just wanted to pass that on. I was looking into this also.
Good Luck and hope this might help.....
Malarky!
I've run slotted/dimpled rotors for a few years now. Wore down the same w/plain rotors.
I would not get DRILLED rotors. They can develop cracks. If you can't get dimpled (drilled, but not all the way through), then just get slotted.
Of course, I wouldn't bother until your rotors have gotten too thin from turning on a lathe.
__________________ 2006 300c SRT-8 (wife's daily driver) Option I, II, sunroof, Kicker, Rear DVD
I've run slotted/dimpled rotors for a few years now. Wore down the same w/plain rotors.
I would not get DRILLED rotors. They can develop cracks. If you can't get dimpled (drilled, but not all the way through), then just get slotted.
Of course, I wouldn't bother until your rotors have gotten too thin from turning on a lathe.
I ran GM's drilled and chamfered rotors. No problems with cracking or premature pad wear. I can also add that there was no difference in stopping distance either. It may be that track time is needed to appreciate drilled/slotted rotors. I did it for looks of course.
A few points from someone that has run a lot of differnt disks.
1. Slots and drilled holes have the same possibility of stress cracks. Chamfering the holes helps.
2. A better way is to have grooves that don't go all the way through, less chance of a stress crack.
3. There is NO extra "wear" due to holes or slots, they don't dig into the pads or wear them more than usual.
4. Most racers do not use slotted or drilled disks because more mass is better for brakes, and under extreme use, a solid disk is better, less likely to come apart. Check the real race cars including NASCAR where they put about as much abuse as possible, and you won't see slots or holes.
I've also heard, but not confirmed, that some of those e-bay rotors are outsourced to reduce cost. The problem with is that overseas they have poor quality control and I don't think it's worth the risk to buy that "hell of a deal" rotor. stick with well known manufact. brembo and such.
A few points from someone that has run a lot of differnt disks.
1. Slots and drilled holes have the same possibility of stress cracks. Chamfering the holes helps.
Not true. Drilled rotors develop cracks under racing conditions sooner than plain or slotted. On the street, quality drilled rotors are no more prone to cracking than plain rotors. This is a racing problem, not a street problem. Of course, if you buy your drilled rotors on eBay, you're getting Chinese counterfeits that have been made in boutique foundaries with no process control, poor casting quality, and not even heat treated. In that case, the drilled rotors may crack even on the street. But if you stick with reputable brands from reliable retailers (e.g., Tire Rack), you won't have a problem.
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2. A better way is to have grooves that don't go all the way through, less chance of a stress crack.
This doesn't make sense, unless you are referring to "dimpled" rotors. The word "grooves" is usually used interchangably with "slotted" and the slots are never cut more than 1mm deep into the rotor face and thus never go all the way through. You must mean dimpled instead of drilled here.
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3. There is NO extra "wear" due to holes or slots, they don't dig into the pads or wear them more than usual.
Again, not true. You pay a slight penalty in pad life when you go with slotted rotors and a greater penalty with drilled. In either case, the difference is not dramatic, but it is there.
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4. Most racers do not use slotted or drilled disks because more mass is better for brakes, and under extreme use, a solid disk is better, less likely to come apart. Check the real race cars including NASCAR where they put about as much abuse as possible, and you won't see slots or holes.
Where are you getting this information? Virtually ALL the racers in SPEED World Challenge and Grand AM Cup (where I hang out) use slotted rotors. Occasionally someone will risk running drilled rotors in a qualifying session to take advantage of the weight savings (about 1/4 pound per rotor) to get a better starting position on the grid, but then will usually switch back to slotted before the race starts for fear the drilled rotors will crack before the end of the race.
I'm not active in NASCAR, so I contacted Essex Racing, the master distributor for AP and supplier to many of the top teams in that venue. They tell me that all of the top teams in Winston Cup, NASCAR Truck, and Bush Grand National run slotted rotors with the exception of one or two back markers.
Whoever is feeding you the information you posted does not know what they are talking about and I suggest you look elsewhere for your brake advice.
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