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Old 10-13-2007, 08:11 PM   #11 (permalink)
SBK
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Ok, car is in park on on the right side with no ebrake.

I am 100% sure I am pushing on the correct side. The reason the piston is out is because I got in the car to start it while it was on the stands and hit the brake like I normally would.

They will not budge one bit. You can tell there is pressue in the line. Both the front and back brakes are in the same condition.

The c clamp did not work. When I do that, a small amount of brake fluid shot out of the side of the piston. No tear or anything, it was because I rubber was pushed back a little.

So here I am. The damn thing won't budge.

Do I put the car in drive? Neutral? Is that why there is pressure?
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Old 10-13-2007, 08:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Here is a picture. The piston rubber is wet because of the small amount of fluid I had on my hands.
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Old 10-13-2007, 08:30 PM   #13 (permalink)
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[quote]
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Originally Posted by SBK View Post

I am 100% sure I am pushing on the correct side. The reason the piston is out is because I got in the car to start it while it was on the stands and hit the brake like I normally would.

That is the whole reason right there (above). You've pushed them all the way out in a locking position. You must bleed them with the bleed screw on the caliper. When the valve is open and you pry its going to piss all over the place. Also, do you have a brake spreader tool?
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What happened to us running out of oil?
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Old 10-13-2007, 08:34 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Ugh. Ok, well at least we are getting there. The screw is a bolt head right at the end of the hose line where the caliper attaches, correct?
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Old 10-13-2007, 08:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Oh, and no brake spreader tool. I used to do my brake on my old cars all the time. Never needed them. Then again I've never had the piston out so far.
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Old 10-13-2007, 08:42 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Make sure you have a full compliment of fluid in the primary reservoir before you bleed the caliper in question...

the front brake bleeder is on the back side of the caliper, upper area...

The rear bleed screw is on the top outer side of the caliper. You will see a small fitting and a rubber tit on it. Remove the rubber tit and loosen the screw portion to begin bleeding.
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What happened to us running out of oil?
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Old 10-13-2007, 09:10 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Right, to avoid air getting into the line. I have to shut it down for the night and will resume in the morning. Thank you for the help thus far. I might be asking for more later. And seriously, beer is on me.
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Old 10-13-2007, 09:21 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Every I've done rotor swaps all I do is crack open the bleed screw on the caliper and get lots of towel near by as when you compress the brake piston its going to squirt out. Close the bleed screw and you done. Be sure to pump the brakes a few times before driving anywhere and don't forget to bed the rotors correctly.
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Old 10-13-2007, 09:32 PM   #19 (permalink)
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That piston on the right in the picture is over-extended. I'm asuming that you depressed the brake after you took the caliper off. When you attempt to bleed, the brake follow the instructions previously provided, however do not use the clamp to push the over extended piston in. Try to wiggle this piston around and push it in by hand. It may be rather difficult. It has pushed out past the edge of the caliper and dislodged. The left piston should be fine. For furture reference, there's no need to hunt for a block of wood; You can use the old brake pad just the same. Just make sure the pad material is facing the pistons and the "C" clamp is screwing into the metal backing of the pad. Try do get a rubber tube to attach to the bleeding screw to divert the fluid in to a drip pan. A second person would be helpful to ensure fluid doesn't go everywhere. Good luck.
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Old 10-14-2007, 06:03 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I wouldn't get in the habit of using an old brake pad. So many times they are not square and you want the pistons to press back in evenly.

As for the caliper, you have over extended the piston past the seat and you have possibly damaged the seal. I would recommend (if it was me) reco'ing the caliper and reinstalling it after that is done. May seem a bit extreme, but the cyclinder wall could also be damaged and its better to be safe than sorry. This is just my opinion though....
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