HIGH-pitch squeal, front rotor, 1/3 pedal pressure only, dealer SUCKS...HELP

[DZeckhausen]

Originally Posted by Cibalo

I have the exact same problem on my SRT8, coming from the front right wheel. I went out today and did the series of hard stops from 60 to about 15 mph. After I started feeling the breaks fade I did it one more time and then bumped it up to 70 and cruised down the highway for about 3 miles did a quick turn around without stopping and cruised back into town.

On my way home I stopped to get some gas and head that same sound again from the same wheel. Do I need to go it again or at higher speeds?

I have an appointment with the service department at the dealership I bought the car from (not a Chrysler dealership) for Friday but if they aren't going to do anything I'd rather not waste my time. Only reason I was going was because I have a 30 day warranty.

Any idea how many miles are on those pads? Did you pull a wheel and inspect the remaining thickness? The reason I ask is that pad vibration is not the only source of brake squeal. If the pad is fully worn down to the metal backing plate, then the squeal could be the result of some metal on metal action and bedding would be the wrong thing to do. Always check to make sure you have sufficient pad life remaining before you go out and bed the brakes.

I wasn't there to watch, but from your description it sounds like you followed the bedding process properly. The OEM pads do tend to be more squeaky than the aftermarket Posi-Quiet pads. So an alternative to bedding would be to try the different pads. At $167 for all four corners, it's a better alternative than buying a new set of OEM pads at well over $500. I think they want more than $300 just for the rear pads!

[Cibalo]

I pulled the wheel last night and checked the break pads. I have 14k miles and about 3/8" of pad left. So that seems to be fine. And the squeal doesn't happen all the time, only after I've been driving for a while and then gently apply breaks. Similar to slowing down for a redlight that you see up ahead.

My only thought is do the bed in again and include a few 80 mph runs.

[UK CHRYSLER 300C]

like I said earlier,,,"chamfer the leading and trailing edge of the pads"

[teamsevas300c]

I Paid So Much Money For The Pads And Rotors From The Dealer And Have Nothing But Noise Problems, Ive Taken The Car Back 3 Times Already And They Keep Shaving My Rotors, I Dont Know How Many More Times There Going Too Shave But Ibet I Have No More Rotor Left And Its Only Been 4 Months Into My New PadsAND ROTORS AND CANT BELIEVE THE PROBLEMS IAM HAVING... They Refuse To Replace Them

[DZeckhausen]

Originally Posted by teamsevas300c

I Paid So Much Money For The Pads And Rotors From The Dealer And Have Nothing But Noise Problems, Ive Taken The Car Back 3 Times Already And They Keep Shaving My Rotors, I Dont Know How Many More Times There Going Too Shave But Ibet I Have No More Rotor Left And Its Only Been 4 Months Into My New PadsAND ROTORS AND CANT BELIEVE THE PROBLEMS IAM HAVING... They Refuse To Replace Them

Did you try bedding the brakes? See: Instructions for bedding in your brakes

[SRT8/BMW]

Originally Posted by DZeckhausen

Did you try bedding the brakes? See: Instructions for bedding in your brakes

just pm'd you...would like some brake advice.

[BIG SMOOTH]

Originally Posted by Cibalo

I pulled the wheel last night and checked the break pads. I have 14k miles and about 3/8" of pad left. So that seems to be fine. And the squeal doesn't happen all the time, only after I've been driving for a while and then gently apply breaks. Similar to slowing down for a redlight that you see up ahead.

My only thought is do the bed in again and include a few 80 mph runs.

Noticed mine again today exactly as described above and it's pissing me off to have a decent looking car and knowing everyone can hear you squealing. I've bed them in twice over the last year and think I might just get some Posi Quiet Ceramic pads and start anew. What do you all think???

[DZeckhausen]

Originally Posted by BIG SMOOTH

Noticed mine again today exactly as described above and it's pissing me off to have a decent looking car and knowing everyone can hear you squealing. I've bed them in twice over the last year and think I might just get some Posi Quiet Ceramic pads and start anew. What do you all think???

The composite shims on the Posi-Quiet pads are very effective at damping out the high frequency vibrations that cause squeal under light braking. That being said, when I had a 5.7 liter 300C, I was able to quiet down the stock pads by bedding them. So, unless the stock pads are worn down below the 50% mark, I would encourage you to save some money and try the bedding one more time. If they're near the end of their life, then go for the Posi-Quiets. You'll like them.

[The Trophy]

I could suggest when you bed your brakes, DO NOT completely stop, accelerate up to 60 mph than brake until you get to 10mph, and repeat the process a couples of time. What you want to do after bedding your brakes is to drive around without stoping for a couple of minutes too let the brakes cooldown.

If you stop the car completely after bedding the brakes without letting them cooldown first, you will more than likely wave your disks.

[DZeckhausen]

Originally Posted by The Trophy

I could suggest when you bed your brakes, DO NOT completely stop, accelerate up to 60 mph than brake until you get to 10mph, and repeat the process a couples of time. What you want to do after bedding your brakes is to drive around without stoping for a couple of minutes too let the brakes cooldown.

If you stop the car completely after bedding the brakes without letting them cooldown first, you will more than likely wave your disks.

That's close to the right method. You want to repeat these braking events (60 - 10mph) about 8 times with no cooling off in between. And allow a few minutes of cruising afterward, to allow the brakes to cool down to the point that you can safely come to a complete stop without causing problems.

If you come to a complete stop during the bedding process, you won't "wave" or "warp" the rotors. What you will do is leave a pad imprint on the rotors. This imprint results in a thickness variation that causes brake judder on subsequent stops.

The process is explained in gory detail here: Instructions for bedding in your brakes