armadillo, what is the total cost WITH rotor upgrades, lines and anything else I may need?
2 ways to go with that, if you want the complete kit with new rotors and everything it should run $3200 or so in black +300 in red see http://www.tceperformanceproducts.co...ws.pl?record=1
the kit comes complete with lines, and all parts either way you order (with or without the larger rotors.)
2 ways to go with that, if you want the complete kit with new rotors and everything it should run $3200 or so in black +300 in red see http://www.tceperformanceproducts.co...ws.pl?record=1
the kit comes complete with lines, and all parts either way you order (with or without the larger rotors.)
i went to that link. what are these? Earl's SOLO Bleeders: Add $30
Pad wear spacers: Add $30
i went to that link. what are these? Earl's SOLO Bleeders: Add $30
Pad wear spacers: Add $30
Solo bleeders are the same thing as SpeedBleeders. It's a 1-way check valve that lets you change your brake fluid without the assistance of a second person. I've had lots of experience with these and I'm not big on them. If you do get a Wilwood kit from Todd, my advice would be to skip this part and follow the bleeding instructions here: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm.
The factory rear rotors on the 300C are only 22mm thick when new. I'm guessing the Wilwood calipers used on the rear upgrade were designed for 28mm thick rotors. Without these spacers, the caliper pistons will extend too far as the pad wears, eventually causing a problem with cocked pistons. The insertion of a 3mm shim behind each pad should solve the problem of overextending the pistons. If this is indeed what the pad wear spacers are for, I would consider them mandatory. Check with Todd before ordering.
Couldn't agree with you more Dave. I don't like any of the items you list really either. I offer the bleeders for one reason; because folks ask for them. Personally I'd never use them as there's simply no reason to.
My feelings are that people over state brake bleeding proceedures. It's really not that big of a deal at all despite what the makers of those products say. I'll put my plastic Tilton bleeder bottle up against any of them any day. And doing the whole thing by myself!
Bleeding doesn't require some special tool or trick. It's simply fluid transfer. And pressure either via vacume or pushing is not required at all. Only in the stealership where they want to charge you $$ for an hours they can widdle down to 20m.
Gravity is a wonderful thing. Open the bleeder and what comes out? Blrake fluid. So long as the MC is higher than the caliper (and some race cars I work are not) the fluid will always flow out with no air going back in. Today nearly all bleeder nipples are on the top of the caliper where they belong. Thus they purge the caliper of air just fine. Right into that Tilton hose or bucket.
If I do an install I simply open the nipples and let them drain into the pan. Top up the reservoir (don't go get lunch) and let the fluid replace itself. Works everytime. If the need for pushing the pedal is there (fitting new calipers and or pads thus requiring we close the space) I'll close the nipples and pump the gap shut. Then open them again and using the hose stroke a pass or two of fluid up the hose. So long as the hose is HIGHER than the nipple any air bubbles will rise to the top of the hose loop. Close and repeat on other nipple. High pressure or 'Mondo Bob' mashing the pedal is more likely to squirt you in the eye or on your paint than do any good. It's not pressure, it's transfer.
Didn't read the bleed story but if you didn't cover it; a few taps on the caliper body with a hammer handle does wonders for freeing up any residual air bubble stuck to the inner wall of the caliper while the nipple is open.
*And no, the pad spacers are not needed for the caliper fit. Just a good thing to have for pads with high wear rates.
*And no, the pad spacers are not needed for the caliper fit. Just a good thing to have for pads with high wear rates.
So these spacers won't fit with new pads, but you add them when the pads are worn by several millimeters? Do they double as thermal barriers (i.e., titanium) or are they just there to minimize piston extension?
So these spacers won't fit with new pads, but you add them when the pads are worn by several millimeters? Do they double as thermal barriers (i.e., titanium) or are they just there to minimize piston extension?
Two flavors; one is .065 steel for another application but would work, the more popular is .125 Alum and is what I'd send. Yes piston bore concentricity is the objective. With pads of .800" thickness you could run them down too far where piston pull-back is effected.
Ti? A bit out of the budget for $30! Would be a nice part huh? Want to split a batch?
Two flavors; one is .065 steel for another application but would work, the more popular is .125 Alum and is what I'd send. Yes piston bore concentricity is the objective. With pads of .800" thickness you could run them down too far where piston pull-back is effected.
Ti? A bit out of the budget for $30! Would be a nice part huh? Want to split a batch?
I'm one step ahead of you!
They actually allow my track customers to run their track pads closer to the bone without boiling their brake fluid. For those who don't know this - many pro racers throw away their racing pads when they are only 50% worn. The pads act as a thermal barrier to heat transfer into the calipers and brake fluid. By inserting a titanium plate behind the pad, the heat transfer is reduced significantly. Some of the trick Brembo calipers even have titanium vented pistons.
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