07 300C with only 4k miles on it Squeeeeeeeeeeeeek!
I have an 07 300C i've put 4k mils on it. The breaks squeek every time i break. I took it to the dealer and they said they have had this problem with alot of 300's. They sprayed stop squeek on the breaks, called me and said my car was ready. When i picked it up they informed me of what they did and said that this model "just does that". They informed me there was no reason to bring it back since they cant fix it.
This problem is irritating and quite frankly, its embarrasing. What can i do???
I don't think I've heard about any 300c's squeeking on this board..... the OEM SRT8 brakes maybe..
Anyone else?
You can always try this:
Quote:
From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit for any length of time with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors. With some less aggressive street pads, you may need fewer than eight near-stops. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.
The brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal.
After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need 5 to 10 minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.
If club race pads, such as Hawk Blue, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Performance Friction 01 or Hawk HT 14, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.
After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.
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My name is Steve, but you can call me Cueball.
06 Mag Pearl 300C, California Wood, Adjust. pedals, PGII, Nav and Sound Grp II, HID. 22elite Console cover, FlashPaq, Formula One Pinnacle 35%, Blastin Bob's 5db resonator delete, KW V2's, Hotchkis sways, 3-Piece Intro ID 311 22's with Toyo Proxes4 285/30 and 255/35, Stoptech Sportstop slotted rotors with Centric Posi Quiet pads (Zeckhausen), De-Badged/De-Moulded!!
Maybe Dave Z will see this, or someone else will chime in.....
Try the above and let us know if that helps....
I thought I didn't drive much at 22,000 miles on my 06, Ed!! LOL
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My name is Steve, but you can call me Cueball.
06 Mag Pearl 300C, California Wood, Adjust. pedals, PGII, Nav and Sound Grp II, HID. 22elite Console cover, FlashPaq, Formula One Pinnacle 35%, Blastin Bob's 5db resonator delete, KW V2's, Hotchkis sways, 3-Piece Intro ID 311 22's with Toyo Proxes4 285/30 and 255/35, Stoptech Sportstop slotted rotors with Centric Posi Quiet pads (Zeckhausen), De-Badged/De-Moulded!!
mine does the same but got a lot more mileage and i had them checkked and was told the brakes are good the pads arent thinning and i went and talked to a friend and he said it could be brake dust on the rotor making it squeek
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2006 300c Hemi
AirHammer CAI
SLP Loud Mouth custom Cat-Back
40% tint windows 20% tails
Reso Delete
Grip Grille (With Chrysler Wing)
VIP300C B cover eyelids
Nav and Boston Acoustics System
FlashPaq Tuned
I have 74,388 on my C, i have never had or ever heard of a sqeak on anyone's C, Maggie or Charger. By the way I have never changed out any ROTORS or BRAKE PADS to date.
Anyone else??? I don't know.... maybe something stuckin the rotor like a rock or debris,
__________________
My name is Steve, but you can call me Cueball.
06 Mag Pearl 300C, California Wood, Adjust. pedals, PGII, Nav and Sound Grp II, HID. 22elite Console cover, FlashPaq, Formula One Pinnacle 35%, Blastin Bob's 5db resonator delete, KW V2's, Hotchkis sways, 3-Piece Intro ID 311 22's with Toyo Proxes4 285/30 and 255/35, Stoptech Sportstop slotted rotors with Centric Posi Quiet pads (Zeckhausen), De-Badged/De-Moulded!!
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