I'm about to tackle the front & rear rotors and pads on my C.... Decided on the Power Stop kit for front & rear based in reviews and pricing. I'll be ordering later this week.
I've got experience in doing this on a bunch of previous rides, but any last minute advice?
( I used to be able to change front pads on my '01 Integra R in 10 minutes total time on track days... . )
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Look at a service manual and determine how you will "split" the caliper to get the pads out. It says you need a special tool but lots of folks don't buy it. Also, consider replacing the front and rear brake lines with braided stainless steel units for improved braking and no loss of braking performance down the road due to worn out rubber lines.
I just did the brakes and rotors on my 300C this past weekend. It was very easy, no problems what so ever. The hardest and most time consuming part was jacking it up and putting it on jack stands.
I bought R1-Concepts drilled / slotted rotors and Centric ceramic pads (front and back) for $266.00. I went to their E-Bay store. I received them within four days of my order. In my opinion this was an excellent bargain.
After a few days of driving I can report that they are VERY smooth and quiet. The stopping ability is a little better than stock. These aren't race quality pads but they are excellent everyday driving pads.
Good luck with your brakes. I'm sure you will have no problems.
I just did the brakes and rotors on my 300C this past weekend. It was very easy, no problems what so ever. The hardest and most time consuming part was jacking it up and putting it on jack stands.
I bought R1-Concepts drilled / slotted rotors and Centric ceramic pads (front and back) for $266.00. I went to their E-Bay store. I received them within four days of my order. In my opinion this was an excellent bargain.
After a few days of driving I can report that they are VERY smooth and quiet. The stopping ability is a little better than stock. These aren't race quality pads but they are excellent everyday driving pads.
Good luck with your brakes. I'm sure you will have no problems.
Do you have a link to these brake pads and rotors? I've got almost 80k on my stockers and I'm starting to get a little vibration with a moderate to hard brake. I know a rotor is starting to warp so it's about time I do mine too.
Thank you very much for the link, I really appreciate it and I have no idea how I never ran across these before. The vast majority of the reviews were great and for the price I can't complain!
make sure you take off the parking brake adjuster while youre in there (you can winkle it off without taking the hub off....you can adjust the pressure on it by turning the star screw at the back through a bung in the back of the drum....you need to do this anyway to get the rotor to release frome the parking brake shoes
Grease up the adjuster with copper grease so the sickle shaped slider inside moves cleanly #(yours will likely be almost seized).
it goes back in with the word 'up' stamped on it facing you - make sure the 'sickle' goes back through the slot in the cable end. You can adjust the star aduster when the wheel is back on....tighten it up until the wheel wont turn in neutral, then back of by 6-10 detents (pins on the adjuster)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaiser Bill
you can adjust it
this help?
PARKING BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENT
Place parking brake lever in “full released” position.
Raise and support vehicle.
1 - ADJUSTER STAR WHEEL 2 - ACCESS HOLE
Remove plug in parking brake shoe support to access adjuster star-wheel (1).
NOTE:Through the access hole (2), rotate the adjuster star wheel (1) in the following direction to expand the shoes outward against the drum.
Left brake – Rotate star-wheel toward rear of vehicle.
Right brake – Rotate star-wheel toward front of vehicle.
Using an appropriate tool, turn adjuster star wheel (1) until wheel will not rotate (dead lock).
Back off adjuster six detents (teeth).
Rotate wheel, checking for light drag. If drag is too heavy, continue to back off adjuster one detent at a time until light drag is present. Do not back off star-wheel more than 17 detents from wheel lock.
Install access plug.
Adjust opposite wheel parking brake shoes using same method.
Lower vehicle.
Apply and release parking brake lever once to ensure proper operation of parking brakes.
Originally Posted by Kaiser Bill honest, its the same......long travel = adjustment required try one or both as below
PARKING BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENT 1. Place parking brake lever in “full released” position. 2. Raise and support vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE) 3. Remove plug in parking brake shoe support to access adjuster star-wheel (1). NOTE: Through the access hole (2), rotate the adjuster star wheel (1) in the following direction to expand the shoes outward against the drum. ² Left brake – Rotate star-wheel toward rear of vehicle. ² Right brake – Rotate star-wheel toward front of vehicle. 4. Using an appropriate tool, turn adjuster star wheel (1) until wheel will not rotate (dead lock). 5. Back off adjuster six detents (teeth). 6. Rotate wheel, checking for light drag. If drag is too heavy, continue to back off adjuster one detent at a time until light drag is present. Do not back off star-wheel more than 17 detents from wheel lock. LX BRAKES - BASE 5 - 171 7. Install access plug. 8. Adjust opposite wheel parking brake shoes using same method. 9. Lower vehicle. 10. Apply and release parking brake lever once to ensure proper operation of parking brakes
The emergency brake is intended to be used in case of hydraulic or mechanical failure of the regular brakes......if by chance they become inoperable or compromised.
Alternatively, it can also be used to keep a vehicle motionless when it is parked.
The emergency brake, combined with downshifting of the transmission......should be able to bring the car to a safe stop.
Poor performance of the emergency brake usually relates to lack of use.
As suggested.....an occasional light scuffing of the drum/shoes at low speed will help ( drive with it on, 100ft at 10mph).
But.....if you haven't used it for a long time.....then more than likely, the shoe actuator lever is seized. It's a small two-piece component (1) that the cable end (2) is attached to, which spreads the shoes when the brake is applied.....see image below.
Brilliantly made out of steel, it rusts into one lump and becomes useless, making the brakes inoperable. It's easily removed and can be cleaned and freed up and then properly lubed.
It's always a good habit to apply the emergency brake occasionaly, both when parked and also at low speed for a few feet. This will keep all the components in good condition
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