FAQ - Audio Upgrades

[JohnG300c]

Originally Posted by SRT8-Croatia

Just to add my experience..

I have a BIG system.. with kicker woofer..

At first i was wery sad with the quailty of soud..

After some investigation i found out that my Woofer was connected other way around !!!! + on - and - on + !!. This was producing a acustic short circuit in my car (bass was poor) oposite phase on woofer is terible to hear...

I have corected this mistake (from factory) and now i am realy happy with my sound...

Try instead to reverse the polarity on the wires going to the rear deck. These are incorrectly wired from from the factory and since the in-trunk kicker sub gets its signal from the rear deck you'll get this effect. If you swap the incoming rear speaker wires coming from the OEM amp you'll also make the rear speakers work in phase with the front speakers (as well as with the kicker in-the-trunk sub).

[mr wicked]

Originally Posted by JohnG300c

Try instead to reverse the polarity on the wires going to the rear deck. These are incorrectly wired from from the factory and since the in-trunk kicker sub gets its signal from the rear deck you'll get this effect. If you swap the incoming rear speaker wires coming from the OEM amp you'll also make the rear speakers work in phase with the front speakers (as well as with the kicker in-the-trunk sub).

was this issue ever fixed or do i need to reverse my rear wires also, i have the kicker sub in the trunk as well

[Cool_V_300C]

Mr. Wicked,

try this experiment.

put the balance all the way to the right.
then put the fader all the way to the front.

while playing music, gradually move the fader from
front to rear.

listen carefully.

If you hear a hole in the sound around time the fader is in the middle
instead of a smooth transition between front and rear, then you
may benefit from doing the reverse polarity trick.

I don't have the kicker system, but this is how I found the problem.

In your case, you may need to reverse the polarity on your rear
deck spears, then test the connection on your sub as well.

[mr wicked]

Originally Posted by Cool_V_300C

Mr. Wicked,

try this experiment.

put the balance all the way to the right.
then put the fader all the way to the front.

while playing music, gradually move the fader from
front to rear.

listen carefully.

If you hear a hole in the sound around time the fader is in the middle
instead of a smooth transition between front and rear, then you
may benefit from doing the reverse polarity trick.

I don't have the kicker system, but this is how I found the problem.

In your case, you may need to reverse the polarity on your rear
deck spears, then test the connection on your sub as well.

i will try that

thanks

[DarkFury]

Pretty much, I pointed out that all the speaker wiring is reversed on Page 5 of this thread...

I'm just wondering... how on Earth did Chrysler let something like that pass "quality control"? /shrug

[Cool_V_300C]

Amazing isn't it. And to make it worse, if you bought early enough
you wind up like I did. Not only are they backwards, they are different
between the front and rear.

[b4437]

i have read through all 7 pages and i still need some help. this is just very confusing to me.
i have the 300c with the stage1 boston package.
1. i am installing two amps in my car. One is a 4 channel and one is mono. they both have high level inputs.
2.where do i tap the high level input wires in my stock head unit?or somewhere else?what color is negative or positive?
3. i will also be adding 2 12's in the trunk and 4 new 6x9 polk speakers. and by passing the stock amp and dash speakers.
4. do i need to extend my speaker wires to all speakers or do i need to tap them in the head unit harness?
5.what color are the speaker wires on the head unit?
6. where do i tap in the amp signal wire for my new amps? the head unit or rear speakers?
7. i can't seem to find the wiring diagram for the head unit harnesses.
8. last but not least,thanks for helpin me out.

sincerely,Bo.

[b4437]

help me,please!!!!

[LAIDBACKC]

Its my understanding that... cutting into the preouts before the stock amplifier.. gives you an awesome full range frequency and great voltage... you keep your steering wheel controls.. but lose nav voice and u connect...

From everyone has said... the system knows.. that you cut the speaker wires from the deck to the amp... and kills uconnect and nav voice.

my question is this...

leave the wires connected from the deck to the amp... and merely "tap" into them using wire taps...that way the deck is still fullly connected to the amp... but the amp isnt doing anything because your tapping into the system before the amp and re routing new amps... would nav voice still work then...

I want a FULL clean signal.. from my understanding tapping before the amp is necessary... BUT i have to have my nav voice... looks like a catch 22.

[Cool_V_300C]

Laidback,

you can do exactly that, but you will not be able to control the volume
using the radio or steering wheel. You will need an external volume
control.

in the beginning I let me audiocontrol four.1 do this. But since I
don't have uconnect or nav voice, I unplugged the stock amp
(this is the connector closest to the engine firewall). Once it
is unplugged the radio controls will work the volume again, but
you lose uconnect and nav voice.

If you have a way to control the volume (ie JL cleansweep,
audiocontrol LC6/8, audiocontrol four.1, ppi par225/245,
etc) then you are free to tap in without disconnecting the
stock amp. You can then connect the left channel from
the stock amp to a speaker (example the center speaker)
to keep the uconnect and nav voice audio). Then put
your replacement speakers in the other locations and run
your new equipment as per the normal installation.