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Old 03-29-2005, 04:31 PM   #21 (permalink)
conceptb
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thanks dikchan, i'll go with that. anyone out there know of places on the net that will supply me jl and stinger products to australia, they charge the earth for high end car audio in australia
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Old 03-29-2005, 05:25 PM   #22 (permalink)
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You really shouldn't need a CAP as the battery on the 300C is in the trunk. This cuts out 80-90% of your wiring length. Check the voltage drop at the AMP during hard bass with a cheap $5-15 analog voltage meter. If it's within specs then a CAP is not needed and is just wasting space and money. A good Optima battery will work better then a CAP and stock battery setup when it comes to short wire lengths.
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Old 03-29-2005, 07:58 PM   #23 (permalink)
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ahhh ok great, that sounds good to me. is this the case for RWD 300Cs as well?
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Old 03-29-2005, 09:09 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Yes look in your trunk and lift the cover and there should be a very big battery there. As for not needing a cap, I hear differently on the forum. Most people that have one or two amps pushing over 1000 watts said that the cap helped the lights not dim as much. If your really serious about this stuff, find a shop that will be willing to let you buy the cap and return for an upgrade if needed. So far for people pushing a JL 1000/1, a better battery and cap should work fine. Good luck and let us know how things work out.
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Old 03-29-2005, 10:02 PM   #25 (permalink)
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i'd love to be able to check out the battery in the trunk, but i don't have my 300c yet, they arn't being released in australia till late october. i'm planning out the system now. i might buy the amps and subs now and test it in my grand cherokee. thanks for the help guys.
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Old 04-04-2005, 12:20 AM   #26 (permalink)
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I put 2 10" W6V2's in a ported box and 2 pairs of morel components and two JL 300/2 amps 1 JL 500/1 and the JL clean sweep on the factory nav system and it's sounds great.
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