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Old 11-23-2007, 04:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Sound quality with Boston Acoustics SGII and aftermarket components.

I love car audio. I'm a sound quality nut. I recently (today) purchased a 300C, and it came with the Boston Acoustics speakers. I want to replace the factory speakers and amplifiers, I'm going to be running Boston SPZ series in the front, Diamond Audio D5 amplifiers, and an Image Dynamics IDMAX sub. I want to use the factory headunit so I don't lose the steering wheel controls.

My questions are:

1) My local trusted stereo store has told me that using the factory headunit with aftermarket amplifiers results in very poor audio in their experience (they did a 300C with the navigation option a couple of years ago and it was a nightmare). Is there a way to tap in to the stereo and have it actually sound good, or is an aftermarket headunit the way to go.

I'd really not like to sacrifice my steering wheel controls if not neccessary.

2) I'd like to find an Ipod adapter that amalgamates into the stereo. Who makes one, and what can I expect to pay?

Thanks.
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Old 11-24-2007, 01:36 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Take a look at this: OEM BA6 to 1200W high-end Boston/Kicker Upgrade Project
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Old 11-24-2007, 04:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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John:

What were the results? You mentioned that you had a problem with speaker ticking. Did you ever get that fixed?

I'm more concerned with sound quality than absolute SPL. Anybody can be loud but a truly well deisgned system will actually sound good (besides, if I listen to it loud now, how can I listen to it at all when I'm older and deaf?).

Is the starting battery the trunk battery or the engine compartment battery? I'd like to put in an Optima Yellow Top, but we have very cold winters here, so I may go for a Red Top instead.

Do you have any problems with power or is the stock alternator sufficient for your needs? You're running more power than I intend on running (I'm still undecided if I'm going to amplify the back stage or not, and I won't be running the center channel unless I do a 5.1 setup (in which case I will be running amplification on the rear channels).
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Old 11-24-2007, 05:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grust View Post
John:

What were the results? You mentioned that you had a problem with speaker ticking. Did you ever get that fixed?

I'm more concerned with sound quality than absolute SPL. Anybody can be loud but a truly well deisgned system will actually sound good (besides, if I listen to it loud now, how can I listen to it at all when I'm older and deaf?).

Is the starting battery the trunk battery or the engine compartment battery? I'd like to put in an Optima Yellow Top, but we have very cold winters here, so I may go for a Red Top instead.

Do you have any problems with power or is the stock alternator sufficient for your needs? You're running more power than I intend on running (I'm still undecided if I'm going to amplify the back stage or not, and I won't be running the center channel unless I do a 5.1 setup (in which case I will be running amplification on the rear channels).
The result is as good as it gets (on a reasonable budget). I did a lot of research in various car audio forums before buying the parts. Having a spectrum analyzer (aka RTA) is a must to tune the system. SPL is bunk, quality is everything. I actually need that much power to get decent low-frequency energy out of the rather small subs. The ticking is still there - i think it is coming from the LC6 but have not bothered to look into the matter further. The original battery works just fine, especially if you will not have as large amps as i chose). I have had no alternator problems. When playing loud with the engine off, the battery perhaps lasts 30-60 minutes. I recommend you use a 4 channel setup so you can fade front/back. This is needed to fine-tune the sound.

Last edited by JohnG300c : 11-24-2007 at 05:32 PM.
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Old 11-26-2007, 08:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnG300c View Post
The result is as good as it gets (on a reasonable budget). I did a lot of research in various car audio forums before buying the parts. Having a spectrum analyzer (aka RTA) is a must to tune the system. SPL is bunk, quality is everything. I actually need that much power to get decent low-frequency energy out of the rather small subs. The ticking is still there - i think it is coming from the LC6 but have not bothered to look into the matter further. The original battery works just fine, especially if you will not have as large amps as i chose). I have had no alternator problems. When playing loud with the engine off, the battery perhaps lasts 30-60 minutes. I recommend you use a 4 channel setup so you can fade front/back. This is needed to fine-tune the sound.

The reason I want a yellow top is because it's a deep cycle battery, and isn't prone to damage by repeated draining of the battery. Normal starting batteries are prone to damage if they're drained too many times.

Another user that posted to your forum also complained about a ticking. IASCA judges the noise floor of the system as well, so if I can't isolate the ticking it won't be considered as having a high noise floor.

I have considered possibly doing a 5.1 setup, with the pioneer dual din dvd/navigation unit, in which case this entire line of questioning is just a moot point. I just don't know if I want to spend the money to put SPZ 6"'s all the way around.

I am still designing the system, the car has only been in my posession a few days... I'm still tossing back and forth ideas with the install shop.
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Old 11-29-2007, 10:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Bump, John you still with me?
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Old 11-30-2007, 01:12 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Bump, John you still with me?
Ehh, yes but i didn't see any new questions
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Old 11-30-2007, 08:47 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Touche.

After consulting with my audio shop, they did not try an LC6/LC8 with the previous install they tried on a 300C w/ SGII. What can I do about an Ipod interface in my car? Does Mopar make one, or would I be better off using an auxiliary in?
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Old 12-01-2007, 02:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I don't know exactly what problem your audio shop is having with
sound quality, but I don't believe them......

I didn't use anything other than a plain LOC (a PAC SNI). However,
I didn't have Uconnect or NaV, so I didn't have to worry about
bypassing the stock amp.

My head unit feeds the LOC, which then feeds an audicontrol four.1.

From that the signal goes to my amps and on to my mains and subs.

My car sounds amazing (not my words, just people who have heard it).

I'm not the only one who has had success keeping the stock head
unit as can be witnessed by this message board.
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Mods: Stereo only, PAC SNI, Peripheral CHYX, XM Commander, AudioControl four.1, MTX TA5604, MTX TA5601, Polk MMC6500, Polk MMC690, MTX TCE5512D
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Old 12-02-2007, 05:03 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I think I'm going to go with Steg amps, and Focal Utopia BE front stage, maybe leave the factory rear stage, or just some Polykevlar/Polyglass focal for the rear stage.

I still haven't decided if I want to spend the money on a new headunit, or an AudioControl LC8. If I go the AudioControl route, I don't want any sound quality issues. If I install a new headunit, it will be the Pioneer AVIC-D3.

Which brings me to my next question.

What dual-din trim kits are available for the 300C?
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