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Old 09-22-2012, 02:36 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badgx View Post
Hey dude, your doing really well I'm also liking the heavy duty inverter and the kill switch, this build is gonna be great

Oh yeh, definitely have the camera wire to any +ive ignition, the camera will have power to it, you just press the source button and your camera feed is already there
Thanks man. So I'm planning on using Fuse 18 in the trunk for my amp turn on. I have a multitap for that fuse, so I'll probably wire the amp, that little volt meter, and the rear camera all to Fuse 18 - so they will all be on at ignition.

One problem solved... many more to go...
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Old 09-22-2012, 04:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hey dude, forgot to mention, that fuse 18 was for the front outside cigarette lighter, not the one inside the compartment, but they were both 20amps though

If your able to figure out how to get the ves to work with the head unit, I might go for a Pioneer or Clarion install. Keep it posted!

Wow, just found the NX702, check out the features

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Last edited by badgx; 09-23-2012 at 07:22 AM. Reason: Found NX702 review, just out
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Old 09-28-2012, 09:09 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Yeah, I've had some ups and downs with the VES. I'll let you know. Thinking about a different solution now. But that's on a backburner. And yeah, the Clarion is sweet. I got the 602 - really didn't want the HD radio (I can still add it to my 602 if I change my mind). The 702 is all screen, so an inch bigger. The 602 has a dial on the left and a couple of buttons. Call me old fashion - I like the dial. I will say that the screen is smaller than I remembered - who knows, might regret not getting the 702. But either way, these Clarions are really nice. When I get the install done I'll try to do a little video of it.


So for an update, I've been very very busy on this. Seems like I keep running into one part short for everything, so I have a bunch of projects half way done - I hate that. But I do have just about the entire car apart. Back deck 6x9's and sub are out - waiting on speaker mount foam to finish off the deck. Rear camera installed - not bad. Sirius antenna - not bad, but I butchered a caulking job. Amp and cap mounted. In the middle of trying to run the five billion cords I'm using - real pain in the ass. When I get a moment, I'll post a bunch of pics of all this progress.

But for right now, I need some quick easy answers
about the factory plugs on the back of the REC. What are they? There are four - see picture... I assume Sirius antenna / main harness / Sirius or GPS harness? / and then radio antenna...



And then when you look at the back of the REC, there is this extra little plug on the bottom left - see picture. Think it is a 4 pin or so. And I didn't have anything plugged into it - unless I accidentally ripped it out. So what's that for?



Thanks. Updates coming soon.
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Old 09-29-2012, 07:44 AM   #14 (permalink)
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this is somewhat unrelated but i thought id ask since you know what your doing and what not. Where do you buy all these parts? Im trying to buy nice monitors to cut into my headrests and have 0 idea what brands are good and where to buy them, i always see ones that come with new headrests. i use to do all performance mods so i know very little about interior electronics
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Old 09-30-2012, 05:14 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Ignore the 4 pins white connector at the back of the unit is a diagnostic port, which is unused and left unconnected.

With regards to the 22 pin & 9 pin connections, need someone to post wiring colour codes & wiring diagram
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:56 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whit3boy316 View Post
this is somewhat unrelated but i thought id ask since you know what your doing and what not. Where do you buy all these parts? Im trying to buy nice monitors to cut into my headrests and have 0 idea what brands are good and where to buy them, i always see ones that come with new headrests. i use to do all performance mods so i know very little about interior electronics
I don't know what I'm doing!! What fooled you? Just a novice trying to do it myself. I haven't installed an audio system for probably 20 years - and I'm learning quickly that much has changed!! Anyways, I buy my stuff wherever I get the best price - local audio shop, ebay, amazon, etc. Since I bought so much stuff at one time with this audio build, I ordered much of it from the same place (Sonic Electronix) and got a good deal. Great customer service too. But again, I'm really not that experienced with this stuff, so maybe somebody else can point you in a good direction.
Quote:
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Ignore the 4 pins white connector at the back of the unit is a diagnostic port, which is unused and left unconnected.

With regards to the 22 pin & 9 pin connections, need someone to post wiring colour codes & wiring diagram
Didn't know that about the diagnostic port. Thanks. As far as the other two - the big one is the main power harness, and I think the smaller one is for nav. Doesn't matter now because.............................

I'M UP AND RUNNING!!!!

Well, kind of. Finally finished all of the power wiring last night and I just couldn't wait any longer to plug in the headunit to try it. My goodness - can't believe I stuck with the REC for so long.

I still have plenty of work to do. The center console is still out and I haven't even begun the VES slave monitor project. Still need to build a control panel and an iPhone dock. Still need to install front 6x9s. Still need to figure out my glove box switches - the A/V switcher seems to work fine, but the USB switcher might not be an option. For whatever reason, the Clarion doesn't recognize the iPhone when it is routed through the switch... not giving up on this yet, but it's going to take some rethinking.

Oh yeah, and I remembered I still had a Cobra red light / speed camera device that I got when I purchased my Cobra detector - think I'm going to add it in the center dash speaker location. Just another thing for the list.

But overall, I'm excited about how this is going to turn out. I'm running two 3.5's in the dash and two 6x9's in the rear deck, that's it, and the amp gain is about 20% - can't even describe how crispy the highs and mids are. Very pleased with the Clarion / JL combo. And the amp is shockingly tiny - I bought this model because it was small, but had no idea that a 5 channel 700 watt amp would be THIS small. I'll tune it all in once the other speakers are added.

Pics soon. I promise. I assume most of you just look at the pics anyways.

Couple quick pics...


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Old 10-03-2012, 09:21 PM   #17 (permalink)
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umm-pictures. I just actually read all that and found out it was you. No wonder it's taking so long.
And you haven't installed a system in 20 years? Must have been a rockin stroller! All seriousness aside-looking pretty cool there!
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Old 10-05-2012, 02:09 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Tell me about it Bob - going to be even longer now...

MY DAMN SPEAKERS DON'T FIT!!!! NEED HELP!!

I'm so close to being able to put my car back together and then I run into this. Today's chore was to install the front door 6x9's and run 14 gauge wire to the amp. After reading quite a bit of threads, I was most worried about two things... breaking the clips on the door panel (which I successfully broke two out of the three) and feeding the wire through the door rubber boot into the cabin.

Well, I managed to get the passenger door wire through - actually wasn't all that tough... (I'll post some pics - which many threads I read lacked... would've been much easier).

So I'm all happy. Tough stuff done, right? WRONG. My 6x9 won't seat all of the way back.

Solution 1 - mount the speaker the other way, so the speaker wire attachments are on the other side. This requires cutting up the stock 6x9 mount. No prob. Dremel out. Zip zip. Go to mount. Donk! Now the other side is hitting.

Solution 2 - time to do some metal work. Got some pliers and straightened up the lip of the opening, then slowly banged it down with a hammer until I had enough clearance... See...




Finally get the clearance and go to slide it in... Donk!! What now? It's the damn metal track for the window. Just about the entire door is hollow - why in the hell would they bolt down one of the window tracks directly behind the opening for the speaker?!?!?????!??

I was so frustrated I contemplated trying to hammer down the back of the window track... the hammer was still close afterall. Good idea not to I think. So I'm stuck. What to do...

One thought was to unbolt the window track (the bolt is right there at the bottom behind the speaker mount) and add a few washers to it, then bolt it back up. Not sure if this is a good idea or not. I don't think the window would mind, but I really would rather think of another solution.

I only need about 1/4" to 3/8" of clearance on the bottom side of the mount. And for the record, I did check the mounting depth of this 6x9 and it is shallow enough for the door... BUT, the damn magnet is too wide at that depth and it is just barely running into the window track.

Here are the stock vs JL speakers...






What I'm thinking about now is an MDF spacer. Maybe 3/8". Just worried about clearing the door panel from the front if I do that. I was already concerned since the JL's tweeters stick out a bit more than the stock ones.

I really don't want to cut the door panel and add a speaker grill. I'd prefer a stock hidden look. But I guess it has to go one of two ways - back into the window track or forward into the door panel.

So, please help. Any suggestions???????
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:31 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I would try the spacer. You might be able to trim some space from the rear of the door panel. I would be concerned with the tracking of the window if you moved it. Enjoy this thread, and look forward to the sub install. What boxes did you go with?
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Old 10-06-2012, 01:16 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Thanks Charlie. Looked into the spacers - seems they are all 3/4"... which is way to much. I think I found one guy who can do 1/2" thick, but waiting to hear back from him. Found two ebay sellers that have listings saying to contact them because they can make ANY size you want, cut from CNC, yada yada... Both of them responded to my messages saying that they don't actually make them and only offer what they have in stock. WTF?

And the door panel is pretty thin in the speaker area. Not much to trim. I was thinking, I might only need to clear the tweeters that are setup in the middle. If that's the case, I might try to cut out a little oval in the door panel - just enough to let the tweeters stick out. It would be tough, but I bet I could make it look clean. Maybe edge the cut door panel with some of the door trim I have. Worse case is cutting the whole opening and using the JL speaker grill. Ugh.

Hopefully I can find a thin spacer that works.

Anybody know where I can get a 6x9 spacer in 1/4" or 3/8" thickness??

Oh yeah Charlie, the sub is the only thing I haven't purchased yet (although I'm now all wired for plug and play). The current plan is for one JL 12W3V3-2 in an NRG fiberglass fender enclosure. I'm not trying to go crazy with the sub. And I need my trunk space for work - hence, the fender enclosure and back of the seat amp mount. But man, this would have been a hell of a lot easier just to throw a big box in there and slap a couple amps on the back of it!
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