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Old 10-06-2012, 07:08 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Can you use a different material for the spacer? maybe just some wood, or even some foam rubber...
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Old 10-06-2012, 07:37 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Looking great sofar
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Old 10-06-2012, 10:38 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Was there any complications with the head unit during the install? I can't stand the stock nav unit and want something different. Yes I was the one who looked at the pics only and I must say looks great!!
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Old 10-11-2012, 11:23 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Fisch,

Maybe using 1/4" plywood as a spacer and cutting it out yourself would be the safer bet? You can even use the speaker as the template.

Good so far, btw.
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Old 10-13-2012, 03:07 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbenkemeadow View Post
Was there any complications with the head unit during the install? I can't stand the stock nav unit and want something different. Yes I was the one who looked at the pics only and I must say looks great!!
Haha - most are picture browsers I have found. All good. Tons of pics coming soon. To answer your question - yes and no. I did break two tabs on the bezel but it is holding just fine thankfully. And I had a million cables going into this thing, so my main challenge was cable management. Lots of investigating behind the dash for little places to tuck another cable... but eventually got everything tucked away. Other than that, no issues at all with the headunit. And I'm LOVING it so far.
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Can you use a different material for the spacer? maybe just some wood, or even some foam rubber...
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Fisch,

Maybe using 1/4" plywood as a spacer and cutting it out yourself would be the safer bet? You can even use the speaker as the template.

Good so far, btw.
I found some 1/4" spacers made out of a type of pressed plastic. They worked perfectly after a layer of speaker foam between the speaker and spacer, and then another layer between the spacer and the door mount. So all is now good on the front doors! Except for the door plugs I broke... more on that another time.

But let me say ---- THANK YOU COOL_V_300C!!! Happy you just chimed in on the thread here, but I can't tell you how many times you have helped me over the past couple of years (literally) as I tossed around the idea of an audio upgrade. I've changed my mind a million times and you answered a ton of questions for me along the way - whether you remember or not!! And besides that, most of my research in planning for all of this resulted in a forum search that brought me to even more info from you. So I had to give you a big thanks for all of your help here.


Ok, so quick update, I finally have sound!!! Still some issues and a bunch of little projects to do, plus the sub of course, but I'm at least finally in an operational state and my car is put back together. I do have tons of pics and as soon as I have time I'll upload them all and show piece-by-piece how this went down. Plenty of challenges and delays, but I just took on each obstacle one by one. Although, I don't think I'd want to do this again - next time, I'm paying for an install. I do have great piece of mind though - because I'm crazy tedious and I know everything is wired and connected perfectly.

Anyways, updates soon, but have a few questions I need help with (and now that Cool V is here I'm hoping for some answers! )....

1 - noticed that my EVIC now says "V.E.S." constantly... any options?

2 - my rear VES seems to be stuck in a non-wide screen mode from any input source I use... what gives?

3 - speaking of VES - still trying to find a way to hack it into a slave monitor... I did find some things after taking it to pieces - more on that when I have more time

4 - I'm running the dash 3.5's off of the headunit. I'm running the 6x9's in the doors and rear deck off of the amp. Unfortunately, the headunits built in crossover options actually crossover all signals coming from the headunit - both the speaker wire and the preout rca's. So I was planning on a high pass on the 3.5's and then just tweak the 6x9's from the amp. Not an option. So I'm currently just setup with the gains up so the 6x9's push plenty before the 3.5's get maxed out. I know this is not a long term solution... especially since these speakers are just hungry for more power. So, is my only option adding some in line crossovers to the 3.5's? That way I can push them much harder - their highs sound great, but right now I can't push them with a full signal going to them. And if so, are there any type of crossovers recommended?

I have tons more questions and more updates, but that's good for now. I do have to say that a lot of people told me that JL was overpriced and overrated, and yes I'm sure there is nicer stuff out there, but again I'm not trying to go crazy with this system - just wanted some better sound. It did end up costing a lot in the end, but I am EXTREMELY HAPPY with the sound. JL rocks - don't care what people say. And I don't even have a sub yet!!!!!

Thanks everybody for the help and comments!
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:50 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Hey Fisch,

Thanks for the shout. Glad to help out. This forum has always helped me out many times.

I think the VES must have defaulted once the original head was removed. Is there an option in the menu to change the aspect ratio? I wonder if it's the lead from the VES up front that maybe no longer has a connection that caused it to switch to non-widescreen. As far as the EVIC, you pretty much lose any display options for the radio when you replace the head with aftermarket. I get nothing there myself.

For the speaker issue:

Since the radio's internal crossover sends the same signal via speaker leads and rca's, you can build a very simple network to take some of the lows from the 3.5's. For a very simple first order filter, you just put a capacitor on the positive lead of the speakers.

I would recommend trying a couple different frequencies to see which one you prefer:

400 hz high pass = use a 100 microfarad cap
200 hz high pass = use a 200 microfarad cap

The above would give you around 6dB/octave filter on the 3.5s and would work great with the radio speaker outputs.
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:43 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Its looking great buddy Getting the VES to work is gonna be a challenge, but I'm confident you will find a way
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:25 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Its looking great buddy Getting the VES to work is gonna be a challenge, but I'm confident you will find a way
Thanks man. Don't be too confident in me - one thing I need to update is that I "think" I have discovered that it may be impossible to truly do it. The video would be easy I believe, but getting the audio into the IR transmitter is the problem. I think it would require some very specific soldering on a circuit board. Trust me - I'll try about anything, but I don't like modding internal circuit boards. I took some pics of the inside of the VES when I had it open, so I'll post soon. Not completely throwing the towel in because a guy on LXF says he has done it - just need to find out how.
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Hey Fisch,

Thanks for the shout. Glad to help out. This forum has always helped me out many times.

I think the VES must have defaulted once the original head was removed. Is there an option in the menu to change the aspect ratio? I wonder if it's the lead from the VES up front that maybe no longer has a connection that caused it to switch to non-widescreen. As far as the EVIC, you pretty much lose any display options for the radio when you replace the head with aftermarket. I get nothing there myself.

For the speaker issue:

Since the radio's internal crossover sends the same signal via speaker leads and rca's, you can build a very simple network to take some of the lows from the 3.5's. For a very simple first order filter, you just put a capacitor on the positive lead of the speakers.

I would recommend trying a couple different frequencies to see which one you prefer:

400 hz high pass = use a 100 microfarad cap
200 hz high pass = use a 200 microfarad cap

The above would give you around 6dB/octave filter on the 3.5s and would work great with the radio speaker outputs.
Thanks my man!

As far as the VES display ratio, I think the problem is not the VES afterall. When I tested the PS2 it was coming up in standard ratio leaving black bars on the sides. Just as a process of elimination I played a DVD directly from the VES - it too was in standard ratio - thus, I assumed a VES issue. I have since noticed that the DVD I tested earlier was a kids disc not recorded in wide screen, and after testing another DVD that I know is in wide screen format it was playing just fine and wide. So I am assuming there are either some settings on the PS2 for the video output, or maybe some games aren't in widescreen. Either way, I don't think it's the VES's fault afterall.

Bummer on the EVIC. Oh well.

Now onto the top of my TO DO list - crossovers. I'm trying to find the best frequency level for the high pass on the 3.5's. As a test, I just cut my amp off so that I am running only the 3.5's off of the headunit and used the HU's internal crossover. The only high pass options it has are (trying to remember) about 65 hz, 95 hz, or 135 hz. Strange for high pass options if you ask me, but anyways. The 65 and 95 were too low to play at a loud volume without bass distortion. But 135 surprisingly sounded pretty darn good! I could crank it high with no unmanageable low bass coming out and even tested how far I could go before any high frequency distortion.

So here's the thing. If you look at the info from these PAC in line crossovers (Bass Blockers (150 Hz cut-off) Pairs at Crutchfield.com) it has recommendations for 3.5" low power speakers to use 600 hz. Now I think that is a pretty broad stroke to lump all 3.5" speakers together, and as I said it seems that mine were going strong at the 135 hz test. So why go all of the way up to 600 hz if the speaker can handle a lower frequency, regardless of what size it is?

And what do you know... when I looked up the C2-350x speakers on JL Audio's site, guess what they are rated at? ---- 130 hz - 22 Khz. So seems to me that there is no need to cross them over any higher. I see that the PAC in line crossovers come in 150, 300, 600, and 800. Although they are recommending 600 for my size and power, I think I'm going to order the 150 hz crossovers. So, all that being said, is that the right choice you think? Am I missing something here?

Thanks again for the help!
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:25 AM   #29 (permalink)
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the 150hz bass blocker would be about perfect. JL's have good bass response, so they would work well with this.

I suggested the 100hz as a beginning, and 200hz because most 3.5's can't handle this. JL's will do just fine with either.

Since PAC has them pre-made at 150hz, that's even better.
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:20 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cool_V_300C View Post
the 150hz bass blocker would be about perfect. JL's have good bass response, so they would work well with this.

I suggested the 100hz as a beginning, and 200hz because most 3.5's can't handle this. JL's will do just fine with either.

Since PAC has them pre-made at 150hz, that's even better.
Perfect. Just ordered them. Only $10 shipped for a pair too.

Thanks again for the help



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