How to upgrade the "Big Three" wiring for audio upgrade - Chrysler 300C Forum: 300C & SRT8 Forums
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Old 11-09-2006, 08:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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How to upgrade the "Big Three" wiring for audio upgrade

I did this in my last vehicle, but I havent had time to do this on my 300 yet, so It will be explained it in general for all vehicles. Oh and sorry I dont have any pictures.

"The Big Three"
Upgrading the "Big 3" wires in your engine compartment can lower the overall resistance of your entire electrical system. The effects of the lower resistance are typically:

1) Reduced dimming and smaller voltage drops
2) More stable voltage and better current flow
3) Less strain on your vehicle's charging system


So for those of you looking for a cheap and easy way to upgrade your system and help out your electrical system without adding a high output alternator or an aftermarket battery, this is the modification for you. If you have heavy dimming or are getting large voltage drops during loud bass hits, but you don't have the money to spend on a high output alternator or a battery, upgrading your vehicle's "Big 3" will usually help to reduce and sometimes even eliminate the problems. The "Big 3" wires are:

1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine

Now, I suppose it would help if I explained what each of these wires does.Think of your vehicle's charging system as two different circuits, one consisting of your amplifier and your battery, and the other consisting of your alternator and your battery. The current in your electrical system flows from your positive battery terminal to your amp, from your amp's ground to the chassis, and then from the chassis back to the negative battery terminal. But how does it get to the positive terminal in the first place? That's where the alternator comes in. Current in the second circuit flows from your alternator's positive post to the battery's positive terminal, then from the battery's negative terminal to the chassis, and from the chassis back to the block, which happens to be the grounding point for your alternator.

So, from your battery, you have the power wire going to the power terminal on your amplifier and then your amplifier is grounded to the chassis of the vehicle. From here the current needs a way to get back to the negative battery terminal, and that way is through the first of the "Big 3," the battery negative to chassis wire. Upgrading this wire will "upgrade" the circuit between your battery and your amp by giving the current a larger path to flow through to get back to the battery.

From the positive post on your alternator, you have the second of the "Big 3," the alternator to battery positive wire supplying "power" to your battery. From there the battery, just like your amp, is grounded to the chassis through the wire mentioned in the previous paragraph. Again, the current needs a way to get from the chassis back to the alternator's "negative terminal" and that way is through the last of the "Big 3," the chassis to engine wire. Since your alternator is most likely mounted to your engine block using a metal or conductive mounting bracket, you can simply add your new wire from the chassis to one of the mounting posts for the alternator. Upgrading these two wires will "upgrade" the circuit between your alternator and your battery, again giving the current a larger path to flow through.

____________________________________________________________ ___

Now that you understand exactly what the "Big 3" do, it's time to upgrade them to a larger gauge wire. You can use regular power wire from installing your car audio equipment, ring terminals, and crimping equipment just the same as you would for any other install. Let's start with the first of the "Big 3," the battery negative to chassis wire:

1) Disconnect your battery's negative terminal and get the stock wiring out of the way. You might have to cut it and crimp a new ring terminal onto it. I found it helpful to use aftermarket battery terminals with multiple ports on them also.

2) Scrape away the paint and drill the hole for your connection of the larger wire, or connect it to the stock grounding point. Either way you do it, make sure it is bare chassis metal, not covered by paint, and that the connection is as tight and secure as possible.

3) Secure the new wire to the chassis and reconnect the vehicle's stock chassis ground, but DON'T reconnect the vehicle's negative battery terminal yet! You may find it helpful to cover the negative battery terminal with a cloth or other non-conductive material and just lay the terminal on it until you're ready to reconnect it later.

Moving on to the next of the "Big 3," let's upgrade the alternator to battery positive wire:

4) Locate the vehicle's alternator and look for a terminal post connected to it. The post shouldn't be hard to find. It should have only one wire connected to it, and it should lead to the positive terminal on the battery, possibly through the fuse box.

5) Disconnect the stock alternator to battery positive wire from the positive post and connect it to the post again with the new wire added.

6) Run the wire either through your fuse box if applicable or through a fuse. The fuse should be sized to match the max amperage of your alternator, so if too much power is drawn it will pop the fuse insted of killing the alternator.

7) From the fuse, connect the wire to the positive terminal on your battery, again, leaving the stock wiring connected when you're done.

Last, let's move to the chassis to engine wire: (Again, because your alternator is grounded to the block, all you need to do is find a bolt somewhere on the block and connect it to the chassis. The alternator's mounting bracket is usually a good place to find these bolts).

8) Again, either drill a new hole or connect this wire to the stock chassis ground. From the chassis ground, run the wire back to one of the mounting posts for the alternator (or to a bolt on the engine block).

9) That's it! You're done. Reconnect the vehicle's negative battery terminal and check out the difference!

____________________________________________________________ ___

Helpful hints:

1) Leave the stock wiring attached after you're done. Don't replace the stock wiring, add onto it. Current will take the path of least resistance anyway, so replacing the stock wire will only make more work for yourself.

2) When fusing your alternator to battery positive wire, fuse it toward the battery end of the wire.
The battery will explode if it's overloaded, while the alternator will only burn out its regulator which won't cause much damage except to the alternator itself. Exploding batteries are no fun!

3) When crimping large gauge terminals for 1/0awg and sometimes even 4awg, a vice works well. Crimp one side of the terminal at a time, creating an overlapping edge. Put the boot around this and then wrap it in electrical tape if you want. the most secure connections will occur in this way.
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Old 11-09-2006, 08:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Wow that’s some great information you’ve presented here. We just had a member complaining about his clock pulsating so perhaps this would be a fix for him to perform? Thanks for sharing all this information!

Clock light pulsates
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Old 05-19-2007, 12:35 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The Stock Wire Is 6AWG thats around the same as The RED 8AWG
If your Just Doing a Siple System Im Sure 4AWG Will Do..
But I Always Use 1/0 AWG It's About The Size Of a Half Doller


Here Is The Stock Battery Ground
As You Can See I Already Changed It To 1/0AWG


This Is The 300C's Alt In This Pic You Can See The Stock Wire & The New 1/0
I Used Both Why You Ask?.. The Stock Gose Thru A Splitter & I Like To Beable To Return The Car To Stock So I Left It In Place..
I Ran The New Wire Ontop Of The OE Wire..




To Do This You Will Get A Lil Dirty..
You Must Remove The Pass Side Wheel Well Plastics & Under Body Plastic..
It's Not Very Hard But Dose take Some Time..



This Is The Bolt.. yes Bolt That Gose From The Engine Bay into the Car
You Pull The Cap Off & Undo The Nut..
Slip Your New Wire's Ring Terminal Over & Put That Nut Back On..


I Hope This Helped You Guys..
peace Troy
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Old 07-08-2008, 04:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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can anyone upload the pics again?
they are not showing up anymore
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Old 03-07-2009, 05:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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My clock is pulsating, time to do this, a little concerned about the alternator part, I'm an idiot mechanically.
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Old 03-08-2009, 01:30 AM   #6 (permalink)
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What is the stock amp on the Chrys 300 alternator?
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Old 03-12-2009, 07:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjoyincubus365 View Post
What is the stock amp on the Chrys 300 alternator?
If i remember correctly, Base and touring models have a 140 amp alt while the C's and SRT8's have a 160 amp alt.
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Old 10-25-2009, 10:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Alternator Hum

Would this cure an alternator hum? I put an aftermarket sound system in my 300SRT8 and now I have an alternator hum thru the speakers at about 3 KHz.
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Old 11-17-2009, 12:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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So that's it? What about the wire from the engine to the chassis, does it not need to be upgraded?
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Old 04-03-2010, 02:35 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Silver dollar size 0/1? Doubtful.. More like U.S. quarter size to include outside jacket. Welding cable rated at 600v is still smaller then a quarter in diameter but will hold more amperage and deal with voltage better then any crap Oxygen free cable you can buy. It's the transfer of voltage you want. The thicker the wire to do so the better. If you've got 1000 strands at 1/2" diameter versus 100 strands at 1/2" diameter, Guess What? The thicker the strand the better the transfer of voltage, the better the handling of high amperage.

I did the the following:

0/1 from Battery to Front. 4g from battery to trunk fuse box (Was 8/10g stock).

0/1 from Battery to ground (Was 8/10g stock).

I'm running a JL 1000/1 to a JL 12W7 with the gain at 1/4 and the RBC installed all the way up. At all rpm ranges my lights dim. Idle to 1500-2000rpms we are supposed to have our optimum range of output from the 160 alternator. This amp is a beast though. The input is 4g for + & -. I am waiting for my 0 to 4 reducers to come in as we speak.

Next step, if the 0-4 reducers don't work, is to go with a capacitor. I've got a brushed 1 farad to install. I don't want to go this route but will if necessary to keep from upgrading the alternator.

Just my input. It's been a minute since anyone has posted anything here and I thought I'd add my 2 cents.

-D.J.
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