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Old 09-24-2009, 09:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Talking Before/After of my Engine Bay--PICS INSIDE (Moved)

Hello everyone!! I am still fairly new here so I thought now would be a good time to start posting some pictures of my ride. I will start off with some before and after pics of my engine bay. I hope you like what I have done so far.

BEFORE





After install of my ARIA CAI--Thanks Lance!!









Then I did some color matching ans some Billet Tech goodies
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Old 09-24-2009, 09:52 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Here are some more pics after the color matching and billet tech goodies










The whole engine bay (well most of it.. LOL)





Thats all I have for now. Hope everyone likes the progress I have made so far.
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Old 09-24-2009, 10:04 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Staring to look real -real good under there.Did ya armour all or clear coat everything
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Old 09-24-2009, 10:38 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks Yamabob

I used clear coat on everything that I color matched but the clear that I used didnt have the hardner in it so it didnt come out exactly as I had wanted. I didnt know about the lack of hardner in the clear until after I had already finished everything. I also had an issue with the black heat pad from the hood (or whatever it is called) rubbing on the engine cover. I am in the process of re-clearing the color matched parts with the good clear and fixing the rubbing issue on the cover. I have cleaned and used armor-all on all the other plastic parts that were not painted. I use Meguires Quick Detailer Spray on the painted parts under the hood.
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Old 09-24-2009, 10:43 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charliedrums View Post
What is the little filter on the drivers side of the engine? Looks like there was originally a tube going to the airbox. Did that used to be an air recirculator?
There was a tube that went from the stock filter to the engine. When I installed the ARIA, I shortened that tube and put a filter on it. I also put a small filter on the side of the ARIA. I did it this way so I could connect the two back together incase I had any problems with inspection. I havent had any problems so far but I wanted to be safe than sorry. If I buy another intake, I would just get that part that I left on the side for the tube removed. It looks cleaner that way I think.
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Old 09-24-2009, 05:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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nice and shiny! lol
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Old 09-24-2009, 05:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Looks great. I've planned to color match some stuff - down the road when I finally got to under hood mods. I figured I'd have to do something special due to the heat. How long has that been painted, and have you seen any issues from the heat?

So what was your painting process - Any sanding, priming? Just spray cans of OEM paint and the clear with the hardener? And how do you know it has the hardener in it?

Sorry for all of the questions! You did a good job and I'm looking to do something similar - so you got me interested.

Thanks.
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Old 09-24-2009, 07:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for sharing.And adding more work to my already overburdened schedule. I just bought a lower lip from a member and order some paint to match so I can re-shoot to match. Thank god I have plenty of clear as I see I'll now be busy.
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Old 09-24-2009, 09:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Fisch View Post
Looks great. I've planned to color match some stuff - down the road when I finally got to under hood mods. I figured I'd have to do something special due to the heat. How long has that been painted, and have you seen any issues from the heat?

So what was your painting process - Any sanding, priming? Just spray cans of OEM paint and the clear with the hardener? And how do you know it has the hardener in it?

Sorry for all of the questions! You did a good job and I'm looking to do something similar - so you got me interested.

Thanks.
I painted them in the Spring before it got hot. I would say in April or so. I have not had any probelms with the paint because of the heat. I just used OEM paint from Automotivetouchup.com Most shaker can clear, from what I have found anyway, doesnt have the hardner in it. There are some companies out there that do have a shaker can clear but I do not remember them off the top of my head. I know you can find it by googling it. Thats how I did it. It is actually a regular shaker can with a "button" on the bottom. You turn it upside down and push the button to break the capsule inside and it releases the hardner into the can. Because of this though, you only have a certain amount of workable time with the can before it is no good. If you dont have a spray gun or anything like that, the easiest way would be to get it all painted and then take it to a shop and ask them to paint it next time they do a car. They shouldnt charge you too much doing it that way.

Now for the steps involved...

First you should sand everything you want painted to scuff up the surface a little bit. Dont use anything too course though. You dont want to have scratches that are too deep.

Second, clean every thing up real good to get all bits of dust and any grease that is left behind. I used 100% isopropyl alcohol to cloean mine but i heard that amonia works really weel too.

Third, put down some coats of adhesion promoter to help the paint stick to the plastic. BULLY is a good brand but I used duplicolor from NAPA or AutoZone. Either one would work just fine.

Fourth, lay down 2 or 4 coats of primer. I used the high build formula so it owuld fill in any scratches that were a little deeper than I had wanted. After the primer is dry, I used 600 grit or higher to sand the primer nice and smooth.

Fifth, apply at least 3 coats of your base color. Make sure you do nice light even coats. You dont want to runs or drips.

Sixth, After everything is dry and looks the way you want it to, apply 3 coats or so of your clear. The clear coat is what makes the colors POP and gives it that mirror shine.

Make sure you do this in as dust free of a setting as possible. You can even make you own spray booth with a big cardboard box and some clear plastic from the hardware store. Kinda ghetto but it works and thats all that matters. LOL.

To get an even nicer shine, you can wet sand the clear coat with a very high grit sand paper, like 1000 then 1500, and then buff your new piece. I'm not an expert painter so there might be something that I should have done but that is what worked for me. Hope that helps
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Old 09-24-2009, 09:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for sharing.And adding more work to my already overburdened schedule. I just bought a lower lip from a member and order some paint to match so I can re-shoot to match. Thank god I have plenty of clear as I see I'll now be busy.
Thanks Yamabob. I do what I can. You know how it is, it never ends... LOL.
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