My 2006 CRD is not going into gear, or when it does after literally hitting the gearstick, it really struggles to pull off and shudders, and the revs barely raise.
The gearstick moves very freely but does not select anything, no mechanical noise or movement.
What can it be as my car is now stuck on the street
Sounds silly but are you sure the brakes aren't binding/seized ?
Is there oil in the Transmission ?
Hitting the gearstick ? What do you mean ?
No mechanical noise or movement ? Can you describe your exact symptoms a little better ?
Is the EVIC showing a gear and Drive is selected.
Are you saying you cant increase the engine revs?
It will roll forward, brakes are free, i can select reverse if i move the gearstick back very quickly, but when i put my foot on the accelerator, the revs struggle to rise and it jerks and it only just moves. The EVIC shows P, R, N, D is selected.
I'm no expert but it sounds as though you have a stiff Auto Transmission Box. Need oil level checking. I wouldn't attempt to drive it until you as a bare minimum check the oil level as a starting point.
Transmission is loading engine by the sound of it.
As I say, Im not an expert at all but it sounds expensive to me. Hope I'm wrong ?
Once you have checked oil level, I assume the next step would be to disconnect Transmission output shaft, but I may be wrong.
jackwalton;1431593
Is there oil in the Transmission ?
Jack[/QUOTE said:
I can't check the transmission oil as its a Mercedes Benz gearbox and I am not sure where to check the oil, the owners manual says it has to be taken to a dealer to check the oil.
It can be done at home by using a length of curtain wire or buying the relevant dipstick on ebay (only a few pounds). You then have to measure the oil temperature, check the oil level on the dipstick and look at a graph to see if there is enough oil in.
In your case you just need to check if there is any oil in there at all in my opinion.
Alternatively you could check for signs of a major oil leak underneath it.
As I say I'm not an expert so you should maybe wait for a response or advice from someone else. If you have a metre length of the net curtain type wire you could as a bare minimum dip it and see what level you have without even measuring the temperature. Just remove the cap and insert the wire until it touches the bottom, remove and see what it shows ?
Thanks for that. Cant find anything in the house to use. But going down the garage i bought it from tomorrow as its less than a week out of warranty. Let them deal with it
Might be worth checking Transmission fuses. Listed as No26 20 amp blue in the front box and No 37 15 amp blue in the rear box. If they are ok perhaps pull the fuse to try resetting the TCM.
Mine was the transmission control module when I had it showing all gears selected. It would drive but acceleration was awful, revved its nuts off like a manual with the clutch slipping but would get to motorway speeds eventually lol.
Update - Its something to do with a temperature sensor in the gearbox, and an entire circuit board needs to be replaced. Been told the cost is £1700 to fix as the part is that expensive. My car is currently at my local Chrysler dealer and they are not getting back to me about my car, so I think the garage who sent it in there (independent) are having my pants down.
Where are you deej, i'm in west yorkshire and i've found a good independant who know their stuff, they knew exactly what was wrong with my gearbox issues when the dealer was messing me about
It appears that the sensor is part of the conductor plate. I would have thought it was changeable without having to buy the plate, even if it meant modifying the plate. Just a case of mounting a sensor in the oil somehow.
New conductor plate $139 from USA. $19 Shipping, $38 Import charges
She's struggling to move as she is stuck in second or third gear thanks to your speed sensors giving the wrong information. Do not move it anymore till the conductor plate is changed, you could easily smoke a clutch or a converter if you force it to right now. There are very detailed instructions for swapping the conductor plate on the paramount performance transmissions website, if you have a search you will find the how to spot and its under valve body swap instructions. Any good shop can do it with these instructions but be aware of how the fluid levels are achieved in our cars, its a sensitive process that not everyone can do without the right tools. A new plate should get you fixed up well, good luck!
If the symptoms definitely appeared directly after you fitted the pink thingy its a likely bet that you've disturbed a connection on the selector mechinism or disturbed the mechanics of the mechinism itself I assume the selector feels ok and doesnt have restricted movement ?
All you should initially do is double check the work youve done and check for obvious bad connector problems then check the selector itself if poss.
EDIT
Alternatively try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes then re connect it and hope it is just that the system has not "learned" the Selector Mechinism OK. Wonder if you disconnected the battery when you did the pink thingy ?
I would usually agree with you Kaiser and it's where I was leaning, but conductor plates usually do not allow the transmission to shift up or down and usually stick in 2nd... hmmm... they fault when the wheel speed reduces and needs to down shift but a lack of communication from the speed sensors on the board make the car think it's still rolling, so it fails to command downshift. Occasionally it gets a code if its driven far enough that the erroring conductor plate sensors don't match the speed signal from the wheel speed sensors.
This really sounds to me like it's a shifter assembly issue.
Just to be clear, i was commenting on the conductor plate, not claiming it as the cure
Personally I'd be swapping out the bayonet electric socket having checked for migrating fluid plus making sure the level of fluid was correct before trying anything else.....those are cheap cures, tend to need sorting anyway on that year of car.
However, since the OP has already received a diagnosis blaming the 'circuit board' in the gearbox, the conductor plate seems to be the culprit
So the problem is you cannot change up or down manually by shifting the gear lever sideways while in drive? If it worked ok before you changed the pink thingy I would imagine that is where its at. Can the gear lever move from side to side as it did before?
Cheers Jim