washing

[300crocks]

Okay how about using a cloth car wash, anyone thiink that is a good idea. I haven't done it but there are NO touchless carwashes in the area, which is horrible.

[Cdnhemi]

Originally Posted by 300crocks

Okay how about using a cloth car wash, anyone thiink that is a good idea. I haven't done it but there are NO touchless carwashes in the area, which is horrible.

I would think twice about using this type of carwash, you never know what has gone through before you. Do you not have the type of carwash that you do yourself and then pay on the way out?

[jeffp]

Originally Posted by II kings 9:20

I don't worry about salt on modern galvanized or aluminum cars.

Kings.....salt + water + metal = corrosion. Yes, the galvanized coating will be a slower reaction than with plain steel, and aluminum doesn't corrode as visually as iron, but they will affect your sheet metal. I practically dismantled the car this summer to rust "proof" it and theres lots of places to watch for. When we had a few days of warm here after the ice, I got the hose out and flushed out the edge between the wheel flares and the plastic wheel well shield. You'd think that not much would get in the little crack, but I wound up flushing about a cup of salty mud out from in there. (The front was much more of a dirt collector than the rear.) I know I got a good layer of asphalt protection goop in there, so no corrosion expected yet, but if you let it sit over the winter, with repeated wet/dry and warm/cold cycles, you're at risk of early rusting. The body warranty covers "rust through"; it has to perforate before they will even consider it. I lost my Pontiac to gradually being "eaten alive" from the salt in Pennsylvania. Just my 2 cents worth, but don't think our cars are immune to rust and such, take the time to flush out the nooks and crannies after a salt storm.

[developerx]

Originally Posted by Mikeyjohn

Sorry, this paint will not cause paint fractures if you use warm water, as a matter of fact our car washes use hot water with no problems. Most or maybe all car washes close when the temp gets to a certain level. The major problem you will have is getting your doors open if the water freezes, but don't worry about the paint.

No need to say you're sorry. I'm not thin-skinned. This may work for you, however, metal, plastic, and paint expand and contract at different rates. That causes fracturing and adherence problems, some perhaps which will show up in the future. Modern finishes are more tolerent than in the past, however, this is always a risk. Moreso in a home environment with the water in the bucket having a large temperature differential compared to the vehicle. 125 degree (standard hot water temp) applied to a car in 18 degree weather may cause a problem. Cold water applied to a car in the hot sun may also cause a problem.

In either case, temperature differential is definitely a consideration, and it's not worth the risk to me. Just my .02, YMMV.

[developerx]

Originally Posted by coolvanilla

Will the CRC 6-56 prevent pitting on the aluminum clad wheels?

Yes, but be careful to use it sparingly. You don't want any traveling outward down the sidewall to the tread or blowing off onto a rotor. Remember that you can always polish up aluminum. The only problem is when it gets pitted. Then you have to either fill the pitting (can't begin to imagine how), or cut down the area around it to the same level as the crater using wet sandpaper followed by a serious metal polish (I use Flitz). One thing to consider (especially on aluminum wheels) is to polish them to perfection and clear coat them. Then this won't be an issue. As a matter of fact, make sure your wheels aren't already clear-coated. If they are, you don't want to use any metal polish or mag wheel cleaners on them.

BTW, where did you get that picture of my wife and who's car is she (almost) under?

[coolvanilla]

Originally Posted by developerx

Yes, but be careful to use it sparingly. You don't want any traveling outward down the sidewall to the tread or blowing off onto a rotor. Remember that you can always polish up aluminum. The only problem is when it gets pitted. Then you have to either fill the pitting (can't begin to imagine how), or cut down the area around it to the same level as the crater using wet sandpaper followed by a serious metal polish (I use Flitz). One thing to consider (especially on aluminum wheels) is to polish them to perfection and clear coat them. Then this won't be an issue. As a matter of fact, make sure your wheels aren't already clear-coated. If they are, you don't want to use any metal polish or mag wheel cleaners on them.

BTW, where did you get that picture of my wife and who's car is she (almost) under?

I already have quite a bit of pitting for a 6 month old car, right in the lip of the rim.

My avatar is a self-portrait at the suggestion of my hubby. It's his BMW he had me "dress up" and crawl under

[developerx]

Originally Posted by coolvanilla

I already have quite a bit of pitting for a 6 month old car, right in the lip of the rim.

My avatar is a self-portrait at the suggestion of my hubby. It's his BMW he had me "dress up" and crawl under

I'm surprised about the pitting. If you can, take some digital pics and post them here for comments from me and others on what to do. Try to get as much detail as possible. It's odd that it's prevalent on the lip of the rim. Is this the same on all 4 rims?

[LWOOD]

Crc-656 is a great product. I like Boeshield T9 better though. I used to distribute both products for the marine industry. There were a couple comparison articles that found T-9 less expensive, leaves little residue (CRC leaves a residue that I don't like) and lasts longer. It was developed by Boeing for all aluminum alloys. It can be found at any marine store and probably Wal-Mart stores, too.

[Northern Rider]

Originally Posted by coolvanilla

I already have quite a bit of pitting for a 6 month old car, right in the lip of the rim.

My avatar is a self-portrait at the suggestion of my hubby. It's his BMW he had me "dress up" and crawl under

I've also got bad pitting on the aluminum lip of the rim, and it's getting worse (6 month old car). I have gone to great pains to try to keep the wheels clean and protected. I'm scheduled to meet with the regional service rep next week to discuss this problem.

I'll post an update when I find out what DC are prepared to do.

As to the avatar, all I can say is, "Woof!"

[II kings 9:20]

Jeffp, I did not mean to infer that salt is not bad on modern cars, agreed getting that stuff off ASAP is very important. I guess I don't fret the way I do older classics is that I will have sold most newer cars long before they start to rust, hence I drive all in the stuff (but never in my Citroen, Alfa, or 300SEL 6.3) and yes I do wash it off regularly. One trick on old drivers (not Barrett Jackson class) is to drill small holes to access rockers and other cavities and fill with oil. I looked at a 72 2002 Bimmer a few years ago and it was a zero rust beauty, the owner filled the various cavities with oil from his oil changes and plugged the holes with Zeibart type plugs. I also saw a GTO at a show where a guy did this and sprayed oil on the inner fenders. Seems Ziebart might be easier, are they still in business, does anyone ziebart anymore.