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Old 01-28-2005, 11:13 AM   #1 (permalink)
CITADELGRAD87
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Clay Bar Question

OK, I read the detail link posted, excelent information.

Specifics now, please.

My 300 is a month old, so the paint's probably twice that old.

Should I clay bar the 300 now, or does it only need that aobut once a year, meaining wait a year, or what?
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Old 01-28-2005, 11:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
JonW
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You need to claybar now. It's not about how old the paint is, it's about how much contaminant is on the paint. It's important to claybar a new vehicle especially if it was shipped by rail. There is a lot of rail dust and other contamiants that can be embedded in the paint from the shipping process.
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Old 01-28-2005, 11:59 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Meguiar's Clay Bar Kit is a good off the shelf kit to buy. If you have a full day to spend soon, wash the car with dish washing soap first. It removes all existing wax. Hand dry with soft cloths. Clay bar entire painted surface. Apply a hand wax. Meguiar's Gold Class is a nice kit, as well. I use both these, myself. My SS is white so the finish and feel are amazing IMO. After complete, you could either use a California Duster for daily/weekly maintenance or use the Meguiar's Quick Detail Spray with a soft cloth. Trust me, your 300s will give it that extra special look.
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Old 01-28-2005, 12:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I agree with JonW and JoeCool72. If you're going to wax you new car you might as well make certain you have a pefectly clean surface. I've used the Mother's Clay bar kit while in a pinch and I have to say I've been pretty happy with it. Just make sure you apply enough lubricant so that the clay doesn't drag accross a dry surface.

The California Car Duster is a really neat product. I use my all the time. My neighbors must think I'm phsycho as they see me doing in while in a suit getting ready for work.
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Old 01-28-2005, 01:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
II kings 9:20
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Clay is a must anytime you wax otherwise you grind dirt into the finish. All that grey on your white applicator is dirt. Some have gone to grey or black applicators so you can't see all the dirt you are rubbing into the finish. I use it to remove tar, sap, stains etc. with great results. I think the jury is out on the CA duster, my brother uses one on his Diablo but all that "dust" dirt trapped in the fibers has the potential for scratches.
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Old 02-16-2005, 10:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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some people "spot clay" with every wash, nothing wrong with keeping the surface clean

i would not use the dish soap

all that does is dry out your paint. when you really want to polish, wax/seal your paint, you let me know and i can give you some tips.
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Old 02-16-2005, 10:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Having not used clays before, this may be a stupid question....

My 300C is less than a week old, and God knows the dealer couldn't have been bothered with putting wax on it for delivery. So I am planning on spending the day tomrrow doing all of the cleaning (inside and out) and waxing that the dealer should have done.

Precisely how much pressure should I put on the clay as I use it? And how much lubricant is enough for each section?



....sT
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Old 02-16-2005, 11:01 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Templar
Having not used clays before, this may be a stupid question....

My 300C is less than a week old, and God knows the dealer couldn't have been bothered with putting wax on it for delivery. So I am planning on spending the day tomrrow doing all of the cleaning (inside and out) and waxing that the dealer should have done.

Precisely how much pressure should I put on the clay as I use it? And how much lubricant is enough for each section?



....sT
In seconds you'll get a feel for pressure. Light for light grime, and pretty firm for stuck on tar and bird stains. It won't scratch as long as it's wet. You need to frequently fold the clay to expose fresh clay and pick off any obvious chunks of grime and if you drop it consider it ruined. I spot clay all the time, I just did a tar spot wedged at the crevice of the door handle, I had to form the clay to fit in the crevice and used it like dental floss, took a lot of wet rubbing. On a new car clay the entire thing and of course clay any time before waxing. You will be amazed at the crap that comes off with the clay, you can feel it and hear it. I use a spray bottle with water and a little (1/2 capful) of soap du jour (I use Zaino). spray as needed to keep it wet, you can't be too wet. There is a full discussion in a wax thread (what wax will you use), search for additional details or you can PM me.
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Old 02-16-2005, 11:04 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gav@lynchchrysler
some people "spot clay" with every wash, nothing wrong with keeping the surface clean

i would not use the dish soap

all that does is dry out your paint. when you really want to polish, wax/seal your paint, you let me know and i can give you some tips.

Your only suppose to use it when your putting a new layer of wax which should only be once in your cars lifetime. I used dishsoap to remove the cheap wax crap the dealer had put on my car. And its funny that you would bring up spot clay because I just did yesterday and trust me you do feel the difference once you've clayed your car. By the way, I use the Zaino claybar which is excellent but they're other great claybars on the market.
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Old 02-17-2005, 05:19 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Solid information here on claying. do the plastic baggie test if want to see how critical claying is. after you wash and dry your car as you always do, put your hand inside a plastic sandwiche bag. (the plastic will magnify the senses in your skin 25 times) gently move your hand across the finish, you will most likely feel the contaminants on the finish. simple car wash soap will not remove many of these particles. One word of caution with clay, use LOTS of lubrication, otherwise it will stick to the finish. Use spray and shine has a lubricant, and the suds from the car wash soap. for more information on clay and other helpful hints go www.perfectautofinish.com Gary
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