Chamois VS MF

[turbomangt]

This is why old school Chamios should not be used on your car. If you look at a Chamois close, you will see it doesn't have any recessed areas in the material. So if a piece of dirt gets trapped between the Chamois and the car, it will act like sandpaper. Thus introducing swirls and scratches. New technology in MF is the waffle weave design. The waffle design will trap particles inside the fabric thus not touching your finish. This is the safest most effective method to use if you are going to use towels to dry. I prefer a leaf blower and a waffle weave towel. Im my business, no cars can leave my shop unless they are perfect, otherwise I'm out of business. Gary

[II kings 9:20]

What about an air compressor and blower, I used your paint sealent, great stuff. What are your thoughts on the Mr. Clean auto dry? I have not used mine yet and have the receipt to return it if it does not work as advertised. It is a system that makes sense at least for the final rinse using the PUR filter. I am on well water with minerals galore, my windows are nearly etched with minerals that even MF has a tough time cleaning off. The filtration I would think would be of some benefit, what say you?

[300C_AWD]

The Mr. Clean works ok but it's output is pathetic, it's very slow and it only removes about 80-90% of the calcium and magnesium in real life use. The best setup is a reverse osmosis setup from Costco hooked to a 10-55 gallon tank. It removes 98-99% of the minerals that deposit on your car and you can spot free rinse your car with garden hose pressure if you have a bladder tank or pump. Then follow up with the leaf blower. MF Towel drying is optional then.

[300C_AWD]

Compressed air has water and oil in it that can muck up your car. Plus any sand in your hose could scratch your paint. If you turn the pressure low enough then you won't have a very good flow with a 1/4 or 3/8 line. The leaf blower with an air filter on the inlet works better.

[dynodon]

I understand the theory about the waffle MF towel for drying, but in reality, if that dirt particle gets on the raised portion, it can do the same damage.

A waffle weave just reduced the chance of something like that happening.

I use a synthetic chamois and they do a fine job, but nothing, not MF or real chamois or synthetic will get ALL the water. Once any material gets wet, and you have to start wringing it out, they ALL leave a trail of water beads, however tiny, and those can be seen later if not right away.

Best thing is to use a MF or synthetic chamois to get most of the water, and follow with a light buff from a soft dry cloth, cotton or MF. Keeping the cloth till the last buff means it will stay dry enough to absorb all the water for the entire job. I have used this method for some time now, and it is quick and works great.

Don
Magnesium 300C
Illinois

[Northern Rider]

My business has over 1.6 million hours of fine detail cleaning experience, in residential cleaning. Microfiber cloths are the most significant advance in fine detail cleaning in the past 25 years.

First, some information:

What is the Micro-fiber?
Micro-fiber is 1/100 the thickness of a human hair and thanks to its special
wedge shaped fiber absorbs most quickly the water.
Micro-fiber maintains the excellent absorptive and draining power and
absorbs moisture faster than normal cotton,
like a sponge and removes dust and soil quickly.
- The fineness of micro split-fiber is 1/100(0.1~0.3denier) that of human hair.
- No detergent. (The extremely fine micro-fiber of NBB will percolate through
the oil and wash off even without any detergent.)



- Anti-vermin. (Space is highly dense enough to keep off vermin, length of 100/300micron.)
- Short cleaning time and low cost.
- Wedge-shaped cross section threads that trap and catch all kinds of dust.
- No reverse sticking of dust.
(No particles come out between the cloth and the surface!).
- No damage or scratches to any surfaces.
- Abundance of bubbles in the micro spaces when bathing.
- Extremely soft touch.
- Anti-bacteria.


The unique design creates 2 dynamics. When the strand contacts fluids, including oil, it pulls them up into the strand via capillary action. The proximity of 2 dissimilar synthetics also creates a static charge which picks up dry objects and pulls them up into the cloth.

MF has been used in cleaning optics and fine, delicate items for some time. The product requires very sofisicated manufacturing. It has only been in the last 3 years that prices have come down to make them practical for everyday use.

MF can be used on cars to do the initial cleaning of soil from the surface. I rinse as much dirt off with water. Then I take a pail of clean water with a little soap in the water and a fresh clean MF towel. I wet the towel in the soapy water and work the cloth lightly over the surface. I then, go over with a clean, dry MF towel to remove the water. If I am going to wax, then I clay the surface at this point.

I clean all my glass in and out with a damp, clean MF towel.

For final buffing of a newly waxed (paint sealant) surface, I have always used soft 100% cotton bath towels.

Now I am using a MF towel with similar properties. The enemy of any paint job is to move hard particles such as silica sand over the surface with pressure. Chamois, sponges and typical cotton cloths can easily trap these particles. MF is prefered because particles are less likely to stay on the surface tip of the strands. They also hold an amazing amount of water, and will remove surface oil.

You must purchase high quality cloths. They have different properties for different uses. It' bes to buy from someone knowledgeable such as Gary (Turbomagnet).

I hope this information is helpful.

[turbomangt]

Northern rider, thanks for the post. I have a similar tech data sheet I send all my customers when they order product. Its a great fact sheet to educate people. The Mr Clean I have not used but I have heard some good things about it.