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Old 05-05-2005, 06:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Using clay bar

Since a few people sent me PM's I thought I would post this for you.

USING CLAY
Using clay is very easy, but you must follow the instructions. Use clay incorrectly and you will create a mess or scuff the surface of your paint.

Before using detailing clay, you must thoroughly clean and dry your car to remove any loose dirt. Direct sunlight should not fall on your car's surface, and it's best if the work area is relatively cool to prevent rapid evaporation of the clay lubricant.



Flatten your detailing clay into a flat waffer that will fit comfortably in your hand.


To use the clay bar, you spray a lubricant on a small area of your car and rub the clay back and forth with light to medium pressure. If the lubricant begins to dry, you'll need to spray more. Clay is fairly sticky and cannot be used dry. Try using clay dry and you'll make a big mess and scuff your paint.

After a few passes with the clay, rub your hand over the area you cleaned to check for areas missed. You should feel a distinct difference between the areas you have clayed and the areas you have not clayed. Keep rubbing until all contamination bumps are gone. Finally, wipe the clay residue off with a soft microfiber towel, and buff to a nice luster. Just like waxing, work in small areas.



When your clay is flattened into a nice wafer, you spray both the clay and the paint with clay lubricant and rub the surface lightly with the clay. Three or four passes over an area is normally enough to do the job.



An alternative to spray detailing lubricant is good old soapy water. Be sure to rinse your wash mitt thoroughly and use a fresh bucket of soapy water, not what's left over from washing.



Check the clay bar frequently for hard particles. When found, pick them off. Make it a habit to occasionally knead and reform the bar so that a fresh portion of the bar contacts your car's paint. If you drop your bar of clay on the ground, it's history. Toss it out. Don't take any chances, discard the clay bar if it becomes impregnated with grit. Read the manufacturers' directions for the number of uses of their clay bar. Do not overuse a clay bar.

When you're finished claying your car, you should wash it to remove the lubricant film, then go over it with a pre-wax cleaner to finish cleaning the paint. Finally, seal your freshly cleaned paint with your choice of wax or sealant.




After claying one or two body panels, your clay will begin to look dirty. Don't be alarmed, that's just the clay doing its job. Flip the clay over and use the other side. When both sides are dirty, remold the clay into a ball again and flatten to reveal a clean surface.



OTHER USES FOR CLAY
Clay isn't just for paint. You can use detailing clay on any smooth, hard surface, including glass and chrome. Do not use clay on clear plastic, such as headlight lenses.

When I can no longer remold clay to get a clean surface, I retire it for use on my windows. The dirty clay will not harm glass, and it's amazing how much dirt film clay can remove from your exterior. Gary
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Old 05-05-2005, 06:27 AM   #2 (permalink)
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It turns a silver car from silver to SILVER METALLIC PEARL!!! Seriously.

Doing this to my white car has amazing results as well. There is nothing better for
detailing than clay. If you have never done it, you will be amazed at the difference.

My Silver had lots of rail dust too. Small, tiny rust spots all over it. They were only
visible if you really looked at the paint closely. The problem with that is, when you
stepped away, you may not be able to see the tiny, little rust spots, but it affects
the overall color and look of your paint.

Do a close up inspection of your paint.
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Old 05-05-2005, 07:30 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by castrol
It turns a silver car from silver to SILVER METALLIC PEARL!!! Seriously.
I couldn't agree more with this statement. This is exactly what happen when I clayed my wife's silver van.

Claying your car really doesn't take a lot of effort. Once you get the hang of it, I'd say about 30 minutes to do a car.

People in the know use clay. If you're not using clay, you're not doing it right.
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Old 05-05-2005, 08:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Clay is king, many posts have touted the benefits of clay. I have a vexing problem of etched water spots on the glass and have not used clay on the windows, going to give it a shot and follow up with a microfiber towel after wiping any clay film..

Last edited by II kings 9:20 : 05-05-2005 at 08:37 AM.
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Old 05-05-2005, 08:37 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by II kings 9:20
Clay is king, many posts have touted the benefits of clay. I have a vexing problem of etched water spots on the glass and have not used clay on the windows, going to give it a shot and follow up with a microfiber towel.
II Kings,

Using a solution of white vinegar and water (try a ratio of 1 part vinegar to 6 parts distilled water) and use like any noraml glass cleaner. This should remove the water spots (which are actually mineral deposits left from "hard" or acid water that has evaporated - usually most noticable from washing the car and letting it dry out in the sun). For really stubborn spots, increase the vinegar strength and/or repeat the cleaning several times. This will work best if done in the cool of the shade (not in direct sunlight). I'd also recommend a "Rainx" treatment afterwards. I've found that this makes my glasswork easy to keep looking like showroom new!
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Old 05-05-2005, 08:39 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhelmuth
II Kings,

Using a solution of white vinegar and water (try a ratio of 1 part vinegar to 6 parts distilled water) and use like any noraml glass cleaner. This should remove the water spots (which are actually mineral deposits left from "hard" or acid water that has evaporated - usually most noticable from washing the car and letting it dry out in the sun). For really stubborn spots, increase the vinegar strength and/or repeat the cleaning several times. This will work best if done in the cool of the shade (not in direct sunlight). I'd also recommend a "Rainx" treatment afterwards. I've found that this makes my glasswork easy to keep looking like showroom new!
I'll try it too, I have well water which makes acid rain look like Evian, I am hoping the PUR filter in the Mr. Clean system will help too.
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Old 05-05-2005, 08:42 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by II kings 9:20
I'll try it too, I have well water which makes acid rain look like Evian, I am hoping the PUR filter in the Mr. Clean system will help too.

I have 3 friends that use that system (Mr. Clean). Everyone of them has had perfect results (albeit I have not seen it for myself). By all accounts, Mr. Clean seem to have a "spotless" reputation..
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Old 05-05-2005, 09:53 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks turbomangt. That was a really helpful post. Didnt know some of that stuff.... especially the windows...
I'll be placing a new clay order with you soon.
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Old 06-28-2005, 10:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Unhappy

Turbomangt, or any clay bar users.. I just clay'd my car and when I re-washed it to get rid f the clay resude, I noticed some smear marks? I followed the steps..
1. wash car
2. clay w/ detail spray
3. re-washed and dryed
4. NOTICE smear marks?

I didn't press hard, and the clay glided smoothly, there was enough lub when I was doing it? what should I do? re-clay????? HELP! Should I wax it right away?
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Old 06-29-2005, 04:41 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Can you post pics of the smear marks? Does it look like the paint was damaged? If not, try claying again. If the marks are in the paint, you will probably need to polish it. Also, what kind of clay was it, you should be using a mild version, there are some out there that is for more severe stuff like paint overspray.
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