rear disc removal help

Pappajohn · 12-01-2012, 06:42 AM

I'm trying to remove the rear disc to service the park brake but i cant get the disc to loosen.
I've removed the star washer retainers from the wheel studs but it still wont budge.

does the hub need to come off with the disc or is it just corroded on the hub centre flange ?

royliz · 12-01-2012, 07:02 AM

disc comes off separate you will need to run back park brake adjusters and give it tap with hammer to free from corrosion it can be quite tight on hub flange

Roy

Pappajohn · 12-01-2012, 10:59 AM

thanks Roy, no need to back off adjusters this time and quite an easy job for once.

rubber mallet wasn't heavy or hard enough, had to resort to a copper faced hammer.

actuators seized as expected but everything else in good shape.

N/S lower calliper bracket bolt picked up a thread and made a bit of a mess but luckily i had a correct sized tap...all sorted.

first time i've had a park brake since i bought it in July. lol

**Simon@thecustom300cshop** · 12-01-2012, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pappajohn

N/S lower calliper bracket bolt picked up a thread and made a bit of a mess but luckily i had a correct sized tap...all sorted.

first time i've had a park brake since i bought it in July. lol

I had the same problem on a friends 5.7 touring. Took ages to work the bolt out then got the thread file out on the bolt and cleaned the bolt up as it was full of debri from the stub axle/carrier. Were your expanders/actuators the right way up?

Pappajohn · 12-01-2012, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simon@thecustom300cshop

I had the same problem on a friends 5.7 touring. Took ages to work the bolt out then got the thread file out on the bolt and cleaned the bolt up as it was full of debri from the stub axle/carrier. Were your expanders/actuators the right way up?

Dunno Simon, they had the hooks facing upwards with the pivot at the bottom.
i guess this is the correct way to stop the cable clevis falling off.

**Simon@thecustom300cshop** · 12-01-2012, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pappajohn

Dunno Simon, they had the hooks facing upwards with the pivot at the bottom.
i guess this is the correct way to stop the cable clevis falling off.

I done mine yesterday but I cannot remember, I have a feeling thats the wrong way round. They have UP written on the front up them.

As long as they work for a change I wouldn't worry about it lol. My srt8 doesn't move very easily now mine working.

Pappajohn · 12-01-2012, 12:19 PM

never noticed any indication as to up but i took note how they came off.

another member posted their cable clevis kept falling off when being rebuilt so maybe theirs were the wrong way up.

mine need a few miles on them to sort out the imbalance caused by one 'drum' being a bit rusty.
wire brushed and wet n dry paper but n/s dips before the o/s when trying to set off with brake applied.

seem to be very efficient though.

talldave · 12-03-2012, 08:29 AM

Are there any pics around of this particular project. I'm tempted to try sorting mine out myself - fitting new shoes & getting it working properly - but not totally confident I'd know what I'm doing ;-)!

Pappajohn · 12-03-2012, 02:34 PM

not a difficult job just make notes of how things come off like shoe spring positions, the rear spring acts to stop the adjuster turning of its own accord.
note which way up the adjuster is, put it in upside down and you may have trouble getting a screwdriver onto the adjuster wheel to adjust the shoes.
be prepared for nipped fingers when the shoes come loose.

from a safety point, always wooden block or axle stand the car...never rely on a jack alone.

ivanford · 12-03-2012, 03:16 PM

It's a fairly easy job for anyone with a bit of an idea what they are doing. I did mine when the car was nearly new and the difference in hand brake efficiency was very noticable. I have used the hand brake regularly since and it has given no further trouble. Every thing was well lubricated.