Need Help: another dead 300

[Prav]

Hi

Hope you guys can give me some guidance before I call the stealers

I use my car for long runs and never had any issues other than once last winter (cold start issue), but that only occurred once and since then no issues what so ever.

Last week, I tried to start the car in the morning (5 Degrees outside) and it would start but runs for 2 secs and switches off. This went on for 3-4 time and then went completely dead. turn the key and nothing happens. All the dash light are working as expected and I used a code reader to check for any codes - nothing on it as well. The battery was showing a bit low so thought that could be the reason and left the car on the drive and took my other half's car to work.

Came back from work yesterday and tried to start her again this morning.. same story, so I tired to jump start the car and still no success. The battery is reading 13V when hooked up to the other car, so its not the battery. I tried the fuses and couldn't see any blown ones. I can hear a faint ticking noise when I turn the key but nothing else.

Would appreciate any help or guidance on this.

Cheers
Prav

[royliz]

do you have a spare key ?if so try it

Roy

[jackwalton]

First thing you can easily check is:
When you turn the ignition to "Run" (i.e. position before you engage the starter motor but when all instrument warning lights come on) an electric fuel pump that is mounted in the fuel tank should run for about 10 to 20 seconds to feed fuel to the mechanical high pressure pump.
If you listen carefully when you select run you should hear the hum of this electric pump and then it should cut out and go silent. If need be remove the fuel filler cap while someone else manages the ignition key and you listen at the fuel filler hole for the sound of the pump running.

Obviously there are many many things that can cause non-starting but this is a simple check and one the first requirements. i.e. A fuel supply to the mechanical pump.

Jack

[DESIREE]

Have the battery load tested.

[royliz]

Jack engine not turning over to me its imobiliser (hence try spare key) would check alarm light on dash

Roy

[chrisp]

If the spare key doesn't do the trick i would unplug both the TPMS transponders under the front arches next. And see what happens then. Easy to do doesn't cost anything and could save you a lot of hassle and dosh

[jackwalton]

Originally Posted by royliz

Jack engine not turning over to me its imobiliser (hence try spare key) would check alarm light on dash

Roy

Sorry ignore my previous gibberish post about the electric pump, didn't read original symptoms correctly.

Yes sounds like security problems.

Jack

[royliz]

i had same thing when i changed grill must have pulled connection tried both keys problem solved that was about a year ago

Roy

[badgx]

Sorry to hear this, hope it gets sorted

The basic code readers used for example by Automobile Association (AA) and the ones sold in Argos and Halfrauds are not all that great for our cars. If no codes are showing, it may mean you need to hook up to a more powerful OBD code reader or the one at the dealers.

The reason I say this was some time ago, when the TPMS transponder was faulty it wasn't picked up by the AA man who his OBD code reader, no codes came up. But when I plugged in the Predator, it threw up codes.

As for the battery apply load test, not just a reading with a voltmeter connected across the terminates. Also unscrew the caps, if any of the cells give bubbles & egg smell, it may indicate a need for a change soon. TBH at the moment, I think you battery might be OK since it had the strength to start the vehicle but do get your car hooked up to a decent code reader.

At the moment Eurocarparts are doing battery discounts and free delivery if you need one.

Keep it posted & good luck

[Simon@thecustom300cshop]

Disconnect both the front tpms sensors inside the wheel arch covers bolted to the bumper and try it (as already mentioned by Chrisp)