You don't need any capacitors or anything else for HIDs in fog lamps,straight forward swap,you may need HID correcters for main beam HID conversion unless you buy canbus friendly kits,I bought mine years ago before canbus friendly kits were made so I bought HID correcters but fog lamp conversion doesnt need anything as they're not ran by canbus
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single led 501's(not crappy flowery multi led,g4y type bulb,lol)
4300k hid main lights
4300k hid fog lights
Massive Brembo Gran Turismo Brake kit upgrade
Diablo Predator
RS UV-1, 20" alloys NEVER SAY NEVER Immobiliser screwed for the 2nd time in a year
Its the same thing, its basically a small plug contains a capacitor that is wired up with a resistor. The capacitor helps stop the flickering and the resistor makes it canbus friendly.
The fogs on ours are NOT on canbus but you will need it if you want the fog to come on with the headlights on entry set on timer mode after pressing key fob. Well the kit on mine, the evic needed it, so added it
Fog lamps on ours,well mine anyway,are not canbus,they're relay fed,so no crap needed to make them work,full beam however is canbus fed and because the amps and volts are lower on HIDs the ECU thinks a bulb is going down so it turns it off after a flicker or three cos it thinks there's a problem ( on non canbus friendly kits like mine) canbus friendly kits are plug n play
Yup, the capacitor kits are all plug & play, ideal for non canbus HID kits. As above, you will need it if you want the fogs to light up on entry i.e. 30 second timer with the headlights
The only bit is how to access to plug it all in together. Some folks like to access from underneath by removing belly pan.
For me, I just turn the road wheel fully left lock and open up the splash back a little to allow access to change the fogs on the offside and then fully right lock to change the fogs on the nearside. It takes 5 mins to do each side & you can mount the ballast anywhere clean using 3M double sided peel backs are strong enough
Fog lamps on ours,well mine anyway,are not canbus,they're relay fed,so no crap needed to make them work,full beam however is canbus fed and because the amps and volts are lower on HIDs the ECU thinks a bulb is going down so it turns it off after a flicker or three cos it thinks there's a problem ( on non canbus friendly kits like mine) canbus friendly kits are plug n play
When you say full beam do you mean dipped beam? as full beam bulbs aint HID??
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