Car: 2006 Chrysler 300C CRD Touring in Mineral Grey
Join Date: Aug 2006
Member Number: 7282
Location: Surrey, England
Thanked 33 Times in 32 Posts
Originally Posted by bolletje
@Devilmaycare, pull fuse 11 in the engine bay for more then 30sec. Codes should be cleared. Correct me if I am wrong
Can somebody confirm if this will work on a CRD? I have heard of this fuse being pulled for reasons other than clearing codes.
It does seem odd that DTCs can be cleared by removing power from a module. Presumably, the same effect could be achieved by disconnecting the battery? Many of the maintenance operations in the workshop manual require battery disconnection at the start, but nowhere is it suggested to first check for DTCs before they are cleared. It doesn't seem to make any sense to store DTCs in volatile memory.
Tried this fuse 11 "trick" today, but as I predicted, does not clear DTCs.
Last edited by devilmaycare; 03-06-2013 at 04:48 AM.
Reason: Fuse 11 "trick" doesn't work
Okay, I will get a ODB reader, where I can read and reset codes. I assume that is what u mean?
Will there be anything different on such screen then the Keydance trick?
And I checked ( i believe ) all the fuses + relays.
I can't say for sure that there will be any other codes but I would have thought there should be.
You could check camshaft and crankshaft sensor if you cant get quick access to a OBD code reader. But as I say you can see the speedometer increase when engine is turning over so the crank sensor may be OK.
I dont suppose its got contaminated or the wrong fuel in ??
Dont think it's the fuel or contaminated, the evening before I took it for a 30min drive.. And back, no issues or such.
Can it be the oem alarm that is stuck? That it doesnt allow it to spark .. ?
Yes could easily be an OEM anti theft device because that would be unlikely to bring up trouble codes up either.
So could be worth while checking that out
Have you got the information to by-pass the OEM security system ??
Just wondered why you had an OEM security system fitted ??
Obviously not contaminated fuel if you drove home OK. And unlikely to be any fuel problem if you got home without any spluttering.
Likely to be electrical side.
Good luck sorting it out.
Last edited by jackwalton; 02-26-2013 at 05:02 PM.
it wont be the OE alarm/immobiliser,when that kicks in it won't even turn over.......I know....twice
I didn't know what engine you had,I just guessed it was a CRuD
single led 501's(not crappy flowery multi led,g4y type bulb,lol)
4300k hid main lights
4300k hid fog lights
Massive Brembo Gran Turismo Brake kit upgrade
RS UV-1, 20" alloys NEVER SAY NEVER Immobiliser screwed for the 2nd time in a year
You could try removing the ASD (Auto shut down) relay temporarily and short out the 2 contact pins in the base where you removed the relay from. This would only be a temporary check to see if it will start.
I cant remember the pin numbers off hand but if you want to try it let me know and i will dig the info out.
If the ASD relay is in the wrong position , it will not start.
Pin numbers to short out are 30 and 87 on ASD Relay. The ASD relay should energise for a few seconds when ignition is set to "RUN". The relay should then energise again if many conditions are met as checked by the PCM. Some of the main things being, acceptable crankshaft and camshaft sensor signals.
The ASD relay ensures that the fuel pump and ignition system is shut down in the event of an accident or overboost pressure, or simply when the ignition key is turned off to shut engine down.
MAP and MAF sensors can also prevent engines starting (just unplug the sensors one at a time to eliminate)
Last edited by jackwalton; 02-27-2013 at 05:33 AM.
Reason: Added relay Pin Numbers
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