Thats not the best of it. Just got back from having the transmission interlock lever fitted. Courtesy car was £10 to insure for the day and the tank was empty. On picking the car up they told me that they had done a health check and apart from the P2015 everything is OK. Which basically means they put the code reader on it anyway. I refitted the resistor and it was blatantly obvious that they had taken the air intake off to inspect.
The final insult was while I was there I enquired about a new key. Breakdown of costs:
Infradig, depedent on cost I'd probably be interested. Can you post the link so that I can keep an eye on the thread.
On my front I've dropped the car of at the stealers and they wanted £107.85 just to diagnose the fault before approaching Chrysler. I've told them not to bother. How can they justify that cost for a 5 minute job......
Regards
Brinny
As I'm computer illiterate I don't know how to 'post a link' ,but it was on JEEPForum.com in the WK Grand Cherokee section. The thread is called CRD Swirl Motor Resistor??? And the guy getting the plugs made appears to be Taquache.
I'll be keeping an eye on it too,especially if I end up getting another 3.0 CRD in the form of a Jeep, is it wise placing all my families everyday transport in the hands of Chrysler?
Just resolved a ETC warning light and other bad behaviour by fitting a 5k6 0.25W metal film resistor. All is good and blood pressure has resumed its previous safe level. It did highlight the mapping of gear changes all clustered in the 3k rpm area........have to do something about that.
I had a close look at the connector and I think that I have the correct crimp (spade/pin) for the resistor to fit the female socket. I'll make one up tomorrow and post a picture and the details of the crimps.
See picture for the pin crimps that are ideal for the job.
Just put a crimp on each end of resistor and then put some heat shrink insulation over complete assembly (apart from copper part of crimp obviously).
Use a hot air blower or hair drier to shrink the insulation an makes a neat job that is totally insulated.
Crimps fit nice and securely into female pin connections and will not come out.
See picture for the pin crimps that are ideal for the job.
Just put a crimp on each end of resistor and then put some heat shrink insulation over complete assembly (apart from copper part of crimp obviously).
Use a hot air blower or hair drier to shrink the insulation an makes a neat job that is totally insulated.
Crimps fit nice and securely into female pin connections and will not come out.
Jack
FORGOT TO ADD PICTURE DIDDLE I.
3.5mm crimps by the way.
Red ones are better than the Blue, because Red are for a slightly smaller cable, which suits the resistor better.
See picture
Last edited by jackwalton; 12-07-2012 at 07:58 AM.
FORGOT TO ADD PICTURE DIDDLE I.
3.5mm crimps by the way.
Red ones are better than the Blue, because Red are for a slightly smaller cable, which suits the resistor better.
Yes they are a perfect fit in sockets but the spade is too long (They are the ones I used and cut down). The male prong can easily be trimmed to length with a pair of side cutters. There is a shorter version available which doesn't need cutting down but the ones in the picture will do fine and fit really well.
I don't know distance across pins but its not a problem at all. I did mine by folding one wire back along the body of the resistor so the resistor is basically vertical, with both wires also vertical (See rubbish sketch I've just done). The whole assembly can then be sleeved with heat shrink sleeving just leaving the two electrical spade connectors exposed.
I did promise to post the correct crimps for the connector...been unwell.
None of the standard automotive ones available are really suitable.
The male pin is not flat in the plug in the harness of the motor. The crimps are called 'microfit crimps' made by Molex (or at least copied from them....The male version which is the one we need looks like the attached file. The flat crimps will work but they will damage the female half of the connector so in the unlikely event you want the reconnect the (hopefully replaced/repaired) swirl motor then you may have problems. The male and female crimps can be removed from the connector shell housing with a fine point and some care.
Where to get them...RS Components and Element14 have them as do Digikey.....search for 'Micro-Fit'. The Standard Micro-Fit male crimp is a slightly bigger diameter than the bare leg of the resistor.
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