Swirl Motor - cheap replacement solution (Pennies!) - Page 4

devilmaycare · 06-01-2012, 03:00 PM

Unless Boro al has a better method, I would try and obtain a couple of spade terminals to fit the cable socket and solder the resistor(s) to them.

Boro al · 06-01-2012, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by devilmaycare

Boro al, could you provide details on how you wired in the resistor? Would you be able to easily re-connect the swirl motor if necessary?

Here you go,
Because this was a trial I didn't want to cut the wiring so decided i would fit the resistor by inserting the tails of the resistor into the pin holes of the plug.

on my car the plug wiring was below a bracket that secures the turbo and swirl motor to the head so the bracket had to be removed to allow the plug and wiring to be accessible,the bracket was refitted with the plug removed but it is possible to refit the plug with the bracket in place if required.
It's possible that a car that's had the swirl motor replaced may have the plug accessible without removing the bracket.

all i did was double over the end of the tails and push them into the pin holes and secured it with some insulating tape wrapped around the plug and resistor,the plug is laid on top of the fuel filter, if i need to refit the plug it is just a five minute job to remove the intake pipe and refit the plug.

The resistor is connected to the live and signal wires which are red/green and grey on the crd, these are actually the two centre connections on the plug, it is a four pin plug with three wires.

I'm not the best at explaining things so hopefully you can follow my direction and good luck if you give it a try.

Boro al · 06-01-2012, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by devilmaycare

Unless Boro al has a better method, I would try and obtain a couple of spade terminals to fit the cable socket and solder the resistor(s) to them.

As you say a couple of matching spades would do the job if you do not want to cut the wiring.

It is worth mentioning that the connection can be made at the pcm,you only need to locate the grey signal wire and the live can be picked up under the fuse box for example.

devilmaycare · 06-01-2012, 04:32 PM

Thanks for the info, Boro al. It looks as if your method would be similar to the one I would use, should the need arise. I'm not sure I want to take this pre-emptive measure at the moment, but I can see the sense in avoiding the consequences of a swirl motor failure caused by the flaps jamming in a closed or intermediate position. Perhaps you could keep us updated on your car's performance with this mod after you've clocked up a few more miles?

Boro al · 06-01-2012, 05:30 PM

It was done as a trial so while it is running ok i will leave it as is and see how it goes.

**paul@thecustom300cshop** · 06-02-2012, 02:55 AM

What type of resistor was it?

**paul@thecustom300cshop** · 06-02-2012, 02:57 AM

found it, would these do the Job??

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4K7-OHM-4-...#ht_3073wt_982

matrix1975 · 06-02-2012, 08:13 AM

Ok, I've done it.

It works. Walked down to Maplin bought a 4.7K resistor for 26p.

Came home, disconnected the dead Swirl Motor and just inserted the resistor into the Swirl Plug pings on the Grey PWM signal wire and the live Red/Green wire. The middle two on mine.

Ignition on, cleared codes on OBDII reader and fired her up. No further DTC codes, no MIL light, no ETC light.

Now its confirmed, I'll do a proper connection on it with spade connectors etc.

Big thanks to all those who've offered advice!!