How low would be good if i plan on puttin front and rear lips on it? I have the SRT8 20" rims and tires on it.

I really want to lower my 06' srt8, but I dont really want to spend coilover money to get it. I'm fairly certain I can get a decent ride with the combo I am looking at but I want feedback and possibly pics before proceeding. since the str8's have bilstein fronts and I found bilstein rears for 112.00 shipped each (x2 rear) I want to add pedders springs and hotchkis sways. what do you think?



bilsteins 224.00 shipped

hotchkis 385.00 shipped

pedders 300.00 and up + shipping (if a vendor here can beat that PM me)



Total 909.00 + or - depending on pedders cost



Thats less than the cheaper coilovers and that includes the swaybars

Whos done it?!! I wanna see pics, but most importantly how did the ride change? I'm on 24x9s with a 275/25/24 and dont rub at all now at stock height I was thinking with going with the eibach pro kit

so pumped to get these installed....thanks again Zach for all the help on the order

just as the title says...

:grouphug:
pictures???
explanation?
cheap/expensive to fix/replace/repair??

thanks!!!

I installed air suspension on my 300c back in May and I've decided to take the bags off for the winter.

I have all my OE parts, including new struts for the front but I can't remember for the life of me which spring cushion goes where as well as the spring installation in the rear.

Does anyone have diagrams of the front/rear suspension from a service manual you could PM me?

I'd really appreciate it.

Though I posted this here, but I was on the wrong site.

Just changed out the springs to Mopar Lowering, and added a Hotchkiss front and rear sway bar, strut tower brace......needed an alignment, and the camber can't be adjusted enough to get it perfect.

What parts are my next step in curing this issue and further address the suspension???

Hello, I recently noticed a clunking noise coming from the right suspension at the rear of my car. I went to the dealer and they said that I have to replace the whole arm... I am not a mechanic, it sounded strange to me that the issue is so important, the car is still new. Anyone has an idea about that strange noise? Thank you in advance for answers..

So i decided that im going to save the $$$ on labor and do Tie Rods and Bushings all my self! But... dose anyone know of any good aftermarket Tie Rods and Bushings? I need the bushing to withstand the weight of my heavy 22's... let me know!

for awhile people have been having the Tension Strut Bushing Fail, this causes clunking and vibration when driving..

Back at Spring Fest, Chrysler had a Cut-Away Challenger Model on display, I was able to see the Tension struts and get the part numbers off the arm..

cross-referencing that part number (5290828AA and 5290829AA (Right and Left)) showed that Chrysler had changed the part in 2009 (talking about SRT part here)

additionally the part for the SRT and the v6 and 5.7L models was now different (as of 2007) those part numbers are 4782612AC and 4782613AC (right and left).


----


Ok so since there is a difference in part numbers and my research here and on LXF showed that the SRT guys were not having (or at least reporting) the issue as much as the V6 and 5.7L lead me to believe the part is actually different.


So one day when I was working at the three lettered race shop everyone hates, I was able to look at and compare an SRT and 5.7L Tension Strut..

Both parts are the same length, but the SRT part is thicker, the bushing is thicker but not as large in diameter, and the bearing on the other end was more than twice the size in diameter.

So I ordered some of the SRT parts and they fit perfect on my 5.7L and low and behold 3 years of steering vibration (very slight, but still there) at 65-75mph was gone..

I bought them a few weeks prior to my torque convertor seizing and taking the short block and tranmission with it.

so while my car was getting warranty repair for those items I asked the dealer if he could install the Tension Struts as everything was apart anyway.

Since technically the Tension Struts are a warranty item, they replaced them using my SRT parts under my Max Care plan.. But they had to order the replacement parts (this was back on July 24th BTW)


That brings us to today:

I got a phone call this morning that my parts were in.. WTF? Well since I had supplied my own Tension Struts, and they warrantied it, they had to order the correct parts for my car, so they thought to be nice they would just give them to me and allow me to return them for cash to cover the cost of the SRT ones I purchased..


That was very nice of them, however once I saw the Tension Struts I opted to keep them, and this is why...


There is a new V6 and 5.7L part number for 2010, and that is what I received..

the box was marked with the 2009 replacement part number 5180607AA and 5810606AA (left and right)

BUT

the parts in the box were marked 5070123 and 5070122 (Left and Right) revision is presumed to be AA (last 2 digits)

Dealer look it up and it is a new part number for 2010 and this is why:

a completely revised bushing:






compare that to the old bushing, which is solid:



and cracks like this:








additionally you will note that the bushing has it's own part number 5180608AA and dealer showed this had a cost of $1.00 but I suspect that is because there is no actual price set for it yet.. But this means the bushing can now be ordered separately and pressed into the existing Tension Strut, I didn't want to remove the safety cap off the bearing, but I am wondering if that too will be a separate part number, seeing as Moog is now making/selling it as a separate part.

ok so i have whining/metal grinding sound com from 3 of 4 corners of my car:( and im almost certain its a wheel bearing.

now my question is, can i just replace the bearing, or do i have to replace the entire hub assembly??

ive changed rotors, pad, calipers before, would this be a job i could do myself, with simple tools??

Hi guys

I am looking at putting some 22'' wheels on the car and think it will need to be dropped but by how much??? Will 30mm be enough and what springs are best for the car???