Here's the scoop..

I bought my 2006 300C Saturday the 7th. I recognized it was on a changed motor, heard valvetrain noise, noticed it had a water leak, but bought it anyway. I check with my bro who is a lead tech for Dodge and he said buy it. The motor apparently has almost the same mileage as the car, which is 75K. I got it for 13 so it was a steal.

I took it up to my bro last weekend and we pulled a valve cover. NO gunk. Very clean and very reassuring. We reprogrammed the moonroof to fix the leak, reprogrammed the throttle to fix the 3rd/4th gear low rpm low throttle hesitation and we are confident it IS a valvetrain issue. The car was sold to me with a 30 day unlimited mileage warranty.

I took it to Hall Mitsubitshi (the dealer here in Virginia Beach where I got the car) and they've had it for over 24 hours to FINALLY determine they have to send it to Hall Dodge for further diagnostics (as I suggested before I even brought it in) It seems as though I'll be without it for much longer than necessary which is a real bummer as I've already started ordering goodies. :thumbsdow

So the motor taps all the time, the speed of the tap changes to match the RPM's, it doesn't go away once the motor is warmed up, and definitely seems like its coming from the driver side head near the back of the motor. I'm assuming lifters or MAYBE a camshaft. Has anyone else had similiar problems? I'm really not posting for a whole lot of specific feedback so just chime in however you want. I'm sick without my baby. I want it back so bad!! Tell me a little something about your experiences. Also on a side note, people say to run the Diablo Predator you need to upgrade the firmware. I don't even know what firmware is (sounds like its harder than software and softer than hardware) So what is it and how does one go about this? Also what do you guys think of the Trinity? What's different between the two? Thanks again and happy motoring!!

I have a 2006 300c And Yesterday the ABS BAS ESP light came on, I had it scanned and its pulling a U1419 Code.. No one knows what this is.. I used my scanner tool and erased it.. Comes back in like 1 min

HELP!

Hi :):)

I really need some help from someone, who have asses to the it-program "Dealer Connect".

My local dealer try to charge me for a bill close to 3000$, that really should be covered under warranty.:thumbsdow

This is the (complicated) story

1. I bought my car from a German dealer in December 2007. The German Dealer bought the car from a Chrysler dealer in Italy. The car was brand new, No miles on it, and was sold to me as a new car (in German EU-Neufahrzeug).
2. In the Warranty that I have (issued by the Italian Dealer) it says that I am the first owner of the car.

According to the rules in the warranty, I have 24 months of warranty all over Europe. But the Danish Chrysler says, that the car was registrated in Italy the 27/7-2007, and therefore claims that the warranty has gone (after they did the repair).

I have been in contact with a lawyer, that helped me write to the Danish Chrysler. They just sent a script from the dealer connect back to me. The Danish Chrysler dealer claims that it is proof, that the car has been registrated in Italy. Hmmm.

Now if you look closely to the mail/"proof" they sent me, you will see there is a option to look at "owner". I was thinking this might show the history of owners of the car?

If that is so, then I would be really happy, if someone could send me a picture of that. Then I can show Chrysler - from their own system, that I am the first owner of the car.

Also:
How is power train defined. I see I have 60 months of warranty there.
The bill is primly from changing the ball bearings in the rear wheels.

This is the info of my car:

My car is build in Europe, built date 7/07 (mdh 062922) and win nr. 1A8G6E7MX7Y585628)

Thanks
:-)
Bo

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...the machine they hook it up to keeps saying "Car Not Ready" ... Both of my air bag lights are on...Can this be the cause of it??? If I bought a Predator, will I be able to use it even though the inspection machine cant read my vehicle?? Im in PA by the way...is there anyone in the NJ PA NY area with a starscan tool who can reset my airbag lights?? I will pay someone!! Its a pain in the "hole" to keep bribing my inspection guy:pat:

by the way, i tried the "steering wheel method" and that doesnt work :worried:

I got my 300C about a month ago with just over 12K miles on it - the sticker on the window mentions ~15k miles or 1/2/2010 for next oil change, so logically that would mean it was changed right at the 12K mark at the beginning of October. I'm at around 13.5K miles right now and the car tells me "oil change needed - contact dealer" every time it's started. That seems awfully early for it to be needing an oil change again? Any idea what, if anything, could be causing something like that?

Of course this happens at 40K miles, right after the warranty is up:twak: Car is a 2007 300 with the 3.5L

Wife says the ETC light comes on, the car drives fine when she is moving, but if she stops for a light/stopsign it dies. She has to turn it off and restart the car and then it is fine for awhile. Car has a ton of codes

P0123-Throttle Position Sensor 1 circuit high
P0222-Throttle Position Sensor 2 circuit low
P0507-Idle speed performance higher then expected
P061A-ETC level 2 torque performance
P2111-Electronic throttle control unable to close
P2173-High airflow/vacuum leak detected(Slow accumulation)

I did some research here and unplugged the TB, ran the car for a bit then replugged it back in to reboot it. Anyone else know what I could check on this?:worried:

Hi,

Any advice appreciated... I'm trying to help a friend who's short on cash with her 2006 300C with the 5.7 hemi.

The car only has 55K miles on it.

It has an intermittend but fairly bad misfire on cylinder #1 (code 301). A new coil pack and plugs didn't help, and there don't seem to be any obvious vaccum leaks.

She brought it to a friend's shop that took off the valve cover and turned it over, and said one of the valves on #1 does not always actuate.

It seems unlikely the cam lobe is gone, so if they'r correct it seems like the lifter is not maintaining sufficient pressure, or the valve is sticking.

I'm hoping to avoid pulling the motor apart, either by learning it's some other known problem, or getting the dealership to do it for free :)

Anyone have similar problems?

Thanks

I'm 80 miles and two weeks shy of my warranty running out and I just noticed the rear passenger side heated seat won't work. When you hit the button it stays lit for a few seconds then starts blinking and will eventually shut off. This happened once last winter when it was -40F outside on my driver seat but I figured the heating elements were too cold to function or something lol, but it worked later. The rear seat has been doing this for a few days now.
Thanks
-Will

For the past week or so I have been having cold start issues. The temperature has dropped to about 45 degrees at night for the past week, and my car which is parked in the garage reads 64 degrees when I look at the evic before turning the engine in the morning. When I start the car, it doesn't start right up like I am used to. It kinda chokes or stumbles and then suddenly starts. It won't do it again once the engine is warmed up. The car usually has to be sitting for 12 hours or more for this to re-occur. Also recently, I have been hearing very slight knock after WOT and it will persist some time after. I have a mac and can't datalog via the predator to verify. I am just wondering if this is normal or if I should be worried about something. Car still runs just as well as I am used to otherwise... My car is a 2006 chrysler 300c, 24,100 miles, predator 91 cai tune adjusted, jet180tstat, magnaflows, c&l intake, catch can, chevron 91, amsoil 5w20. Thanks in advance.

Well hope everyones having a goodmorning!
Yesterday wasnt all that fun for me, and leaves me with a big question to ask who but better than you!

My car has 69,500 miles so i'm almost gone past my 7/70 warranty. I'm the second owner and when i bought it from the dealer a year ago they told me they were going to add on a 4 year 60,000 ontop of that (luding me to believe the 60,000 was added to the 70,000 so should be covered to 130,000) But after talken to the warranty place and the dealership i only found out that i bought a useless $1500 service plan.

So question #1 is what coverage from chrysler is past 7/70?
anything that would be worth it?

Also i know its on here on how to fix it but just wanted to ask aswell...
My car's engine-light is displaying a P0406 the EGR high sensor, brought it into the dealer and saying its not covered under warranty and would cost (+)$300.

So question #2 Shouldnt EGR be considered an engine part and be covered under 7/70 and if not atleast under general federal standards because of emissions?

I've had a trouble-free ride until today at lunch time. I was driving on a side street and the car started bucking and hesitating like it was out of gas. I came to a stop and it didn't stall out. I drove again and it did the same thing. Then the engine light, ESP and BAS lights came on. After that it started running smooth again, but maybe just a little less responsive to the pedal.

I got back home, shut the car off. When I switched it back on the engine light stays lit, and the other ones are back off. Idle is smooth. I didn't try to get any codes yet, but I guess I should try to get those first in an effort to diagnose what the problem is.

Has anyone seen this happen to them?

I am wondering if this is a regular issue with the 05's. The mirror on the driver's side is blurry/double visioned. Anyone know anything about this would be a big help.

I have an 07 300C. 5.7L with 53,000 miles.
As I was driving out of work I hit the gas to accelerate. There was hardly any increase in speed. I kept my foot on the pedal for about 5 seconds before finally letting off. When I hit the gas again, it was back to normal. No problems since. There was plenty of travel in the gas pedal so I know it wasn't something like the carpet getting stuck under it.

Any ideas?

So first question is....... Are all three Hundreds Gigantic piles of American S**t or is the fact of my probably close to twenty thousand dollars in replacement parts just normal s**t for all cars?

I have literally spent all of the first year owning this car in the shop the car is just falling apart limb from limb.

Not to mention the dealership themselves are a bunch of fing retarded pirates.

After day one and almost driving into to every on-coming median do to alignment issues. I lost my car that i Owned for Three weeks....
So ready brase yourselves after getting the car delivered from the factory they take it into the shop and the dealership can not align it into Chrysler specs. So they send it to the body and get ready they drop the ENGINE out of the car take apart ALL THE FACTORY SEALED BOLTS AND then put it back together after realizing that it was a bent control arm WHAT!!!!!! that was probably damaged from the shipping company.


Well the list really does go on even after that and on and on for a year. Some of the problems where

Dvd Nav Replaced four times before they got it right. It also was from canada anyone have one from canada.

Rack and Pinion

Struts

Brakes Rotors

Tires

Rims

Rear Axle

Interiour fixtures

Leather

Windows locks and Actuator

Window tint

Front bezel defrosters

Transmission slipping reset computer fixed it

I MEAN REALLY IS THERE SOMEONE ON THESE FORUMS THAT HAS A GOOD DEALERSHIP WHERE THEY UNDERSTAND AUTOMOBILES


shifter chrome assembly

on and on

in one year like i said falling the F apart

Best thing is that some of you might think your good with your car mine doesnt know what dust is........ let alone any other substance than water.

Cleaned ever other day and waxed top to bottom Month at the longest.

So this really does continue on for an unbelievable amount of wasted life but


ANY HELP?

Thanks

Hopefully someone can help me out with this problem so here's the whole story.

2006 SRT8 ( Aug '05 build ) with 54k miles completely stock. For about the last month the car has been randomly stalling with no warning lights either before or after the stall. The car would be running fine for about 10 minutes or so then at a light or stopped waiting to turn, the rpms would jump up, the car would lurch forward and then die. Restart the car and it would usually run fine.

I posted my problem to my local forum and was told to check the throttle body and clean it out, could be a sticking throttle plate. I checked it and sure enough there was a lot of gunk in there so I cleaned it out. Now its nice and shiny, looks like new. I did make the mistake of disconnecting the battery when I removed the throttle body. I was told this probably messed up the adaptive learning because when I put it all back together the idle was surging from 500 - 1500 rpms.

I reset the computer, pulled fuse #11 and did a throttle relearn. The car ran fine for a day. Yesterday 10 minutes into my drive, stopped waiting to turn left. The car jumped forward almost hitting the car in front of me and then stalled. This time all the dash warning lights came on and upon restart the ETC light was flashing. I immediately pulled into a parking lot and according to the manual cycled the key and the light went away. The car ran fine the rest of the way.

Today, left the house and at the exact same intersection approximately 10 minutes into the drive, the ETC light came on and was flashing, car went into limp mode. Pulled off, cycled the key, ran fine for another 35 minutes. On the way home, 10 minutes in, sitting at a light, rpms jump up and car stalls. No warning lights illuminate. Restart, another 10 minutes ETC light on and flashing. Pull over, cycle the key, ran fine another 30 minutes and I'm home.

I'm sorry for the long explanation, but hopefully someone has some ideas on whats going on. Like I said, 54k miles, out of warranty, completely stock. Thanks very much.