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General Discussion on Issues / Trouble Shooting General Discussion on Issues / Trouble Shooting problems and solutions

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Old 01-30-2013, 10:48 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I do have some info on the codes.

P0513 stands for invalid SKIM Key. Basically it means that the "computer chip" that is in your ignition key which has a special code is not recognized by your vehcile compter (PCM). In most cases that I have come across is that either your VIN is not entered or is the incorrect VIN programmed into the PCM. Have you recently changed the PCM ? You may try another ignition key but I doubt that would work unless you are using the wrong key for the vehicle. You will need special diagnostic computer programs in order to correct this problem. Most likely your PCM will need to be "Flashed" to the VIN. This really isn't a weekend/backyard/part time mechanic fix. Hope this helps you to understand what the code is and what it means.

U110 - Lost Communication With Scm-this may be another key switch problem or relates to a dirty/corroded harness connection...its losing signal at the pcm for the key. Have you made electrical mods to the car?

Here's what the tech would test seeing this code:

DTC set conditions:

When Monitored:
With the ignition on
Battery voltage between 10 and 16 volts
IOD fuse installed
FCM is configured correctly
Set Condition:
Bus messages not received from the SCM (CAN C) for approximately 200ms.
Possible Causes
CAN B BUS CIRCUITS OPEN OR SHORTED
DTCS RELATED TO BATTERY VOLTAGE, IGNITION, OR VIN MESSAGES
FCM NOT CONFIGURED CORRECTLY
STEERING CONTROL MODULE
STEERING CONTROL MODULE POWER AND GROUND
MODULE THAT SET THIS DTC

Diagnostic Test
1. VERIFY DTC IS ACTIVE
NOTE: Ensure the IOD fuse is installed and battery voltage is between 10 and 16 volts before proceeding.
With the scan tool, read active DTCs.
Is this DTC active?
Yes >> Go To 2
No >> Refer to the Stored Lost Communication test procedure. Refer to the table of contents in this section.
Perform BODY VERIFICATION TEST – VER 1. (Refer to BODY VERIFICATION TEST – VER 1).
2. CHECK FOR ANY OF THE FOLLOWING ACTIVE DTCS
With the scan tool, read active DTCs from all modules.
NOTE: Check for FCM configuration, CAN B or C hardware electrical, VIN Missing/Mismatch, battery or ignition
related DTCs.
Does the scan tool display any active DTCs to the conditions listed above?
Yes >> Diagnose and repair the DTC. Refer to the Table of Contents for a complete list of the symptoms.
Perform BODY VERIFICATION TEST – VER 1. (Refer to BODY VERIFICATION TEST – VER 1).
No >> Go To 3
3. VERIFY THAT THE SCM IS ACTIVE ON THE BUS
Turn the ignition on.
With the scan tool, select Network Diagnostics.
Verify that the SCM is active on the bus.
Is the SCM active on the bus?
Yes >> Go To 4
No >> Refer to the Table of Contents located in this section for a no response test procedure.
Perform BODY VERIFICATION TEST – VER 1. (Refer to BODY VERIFICATION TEST – VER 1).
4. CHECK FOR ADDITIONAL COMMUNICATION RELATED DTCS
With the scan tool, select Network Diagnostics.
Is there more than one module with active DTCs “Logged Against” the SCM?
Yes >> Replace/update the Steering Control Module in accordance with the service information.
Perform BODY VERIFICATION TEST – VER 1. (Refer to BODY VERIFICATION TEST – VER 1).
No >> Replace/update the module that set this DTC in accordance with the service information.
Perform BODY VERIFICATION TEST – VER 1. (Refer to BODY VERIFICATION TEST – VER 1).
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:46 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks MADDOG. Absolutely no mods to the car whatsoever. Maybe the scm is flaking out? and maybe it will really flake out when it gets warmer? I've seen this happen on other electrical components before. In the next hour I'm going to try to look at some of the fuses and grounds...maybe a chance the issue is there. Otherwise I'll print your findings and show the tech at the shop....thanks again!
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Old 02-04-2013, 01:35 PM   #13 (permalink)
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MADDOG...did you have a diagram where the ground points are at? I see in the engine area the two lug points but the one on the left side of the engine compartment has no ground wires to it. There is a grnd pnt on the right side of the compartment next to the fuse box....just curious.

Thnx
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Old 02-04-2013, 01:55 PM   #14 (permalink)
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OK...another odd thing. After playing with fuses (pulling out and lightly sanding off) I noticed my lights are turning on and off with the main light switch in the 'off' position.....comes and goes like there is a short or bad connection. However, if a bad connection, why turn 'on' at all? I can see if I had the switch in the 'auto' or 'on' position, but it was clearly in the 'off' position and the lights were still turning 'on'.

Just FYI.....Thnx
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Codes could have something to do with the key/steering column. Perhaps your ignition switch is worn. Did you have a new key made recently? Does the ignition switch feel sloppy or tight?

I'm just thinking out loud here.

Last edited by Stockholm 300C; 02-04-2013 at 02:15 PM. Reason: Off work today. :)
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:58 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quick update: I had enough info to take my car to the dealer and they immediately suspected the light switch and ignition switch for my issues (and video I had). Even though the the cluster hasn't had a bout of going crazy lately, my lights however were an everyday event. So the dealer, even though they tested but could not confirm, they susgested to change the light switch because there were 5 revisions previously to the light switch.

So the light switch was changed and problem gone. It's been two weeks and I feel pretty confident that solution worked since the lights were an everyday issue for a week straight until the change.

The dealership says that when the cluster starts to act up to bring it in so they can check it out. However I had separate video of the lights and cluster flaking out. After the tech watched the video he immeditately thought it was the iginition switch by the way the cluster was dancing all over. They also said the ignition switch has had 9 previous revisions as well and my version is the original version.

So when the cluster starts to go out, I'll get the switch changed and go from there.

Hopefully this info can be helpful in the future for someone.

Thanks all for the help!!
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:24 PM   #17 (permalink)
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This is what I like to see on forums, when someone post and gets responded too, they post back it fixed.

Some just leave a BIG nothing.

Thanks G for posting back about how your issue was fixed.

SGB
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:27 PM   #18 (permalink)
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That's awesome! It's hard to diagnose a car from long distance and the most anyone can do is put out some potentials to consider. I don't have a scan tool but some of the codes are pretty specific as to the cause of the condition.

Thanks for letting us know you are up and running again!
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