Alternation or a simple Battery connection prob?

[DJOrtiz]

i was taking my '06 (35,xxx) SRT on my trip to Thanksgiving dinner a state away when my battery light came on 2 miles away from leaving my house.

i got a jump at a gas station and returned it to the house where all the dash lights lit up then just killed the car.

We unpacked the car into the van and when i went to inspect the battery the negative terminal was caked!

I just returned to my problem a week later and i turned the battery into advanced auto parts, the battery doesnt seem bad but was drained.

do you guys think that it could be an alternation problem? the battery needing to be replaced? or the terminals needing to cleaned up?


Thanks guys.

[Northern Rider]

If it's the original battery, replace it!

They seem to have a useful life of about 5 years,

[DJOrtiz]

i hear you but that just doesnt make sense. the vehicle just simply dies, wouldnt that point to the alternator??

there was massive corrosion all over the negative terminal of the battery, it felt moist as well.. thermal runaway?

[DESIREE]

Even if it's not the original battery it is going to need replacement. Then study any possible alternator, and/or voltage regulator, issues.

[DJOrtiz]

thanks guys.

[DJOrtiz]

ok heres another question, if i were to put in a new battery and after turning on the vehicle can i disconnect one of the terminals to see if the alternator is working?? shouldnt the vehicle be running on alternator alone after start up?

[DJOrtiz]

weird, now my seater heaters dont work... freaking weird!!

[DJOrtiz]

been reading this thread:

2006 300c Battery Help Asap

and i'm guessing that it will prolly most likely be the battery, i have added electronics and i'm guessing the computer is directing necessary power to where its needed, i had left the battery over night at the auto parts store and when they checked the charge this morning they said it was still low. hmmm... go with a better battery than stock for electronics..

kenetic HC2000 - $299
or the
duralast battery

is my best bet for warranty and electronic load, what do you guys think?

also, i answered my question about removing the connections from the terminals while the vehicle is running.. it just dies. LOL.

[Fisch]

What kind of electronics did you add? What size amp(s)?

My initial reaction was probably alternator. But if you just added a bunch of audio equipment then it could have something to do with that.

I just added a 700W amp and a 1000W inverter (although the inverter is rarely on) and I'm getting some serious dimming with the bass. Now here's the funny thing - I just might be on the original battery and I'm about to hit 100K miles. I've certainly not changed the battery and I've owned it since under 40K miles. So clearly I could use a new battery - but like you said, my battery tests fine. I've never had an issue with it - aside from the bass dimming.

Have you done the Big 3? I've changed the negative battery ground to 0 gauge and plan to do the other two wires soon. If that doesn't fix my problem I'm going to be looking into one of these Kinetik's or Optima's... or maybe a new stock battery and one of those smaller Kinetik's as a second battery.

And I could have told you your car would die if you removed them while it's running!!! I don't think that's a good idea, so try not to do it again.

[DJOrtiz]

All I've added was custom DVDs in the headrest. I yet to upgrade the negative battery, looks like an easy mod. I've been really busy this week and havent had any time to mess with removing the alternator to turn into get it tested. I might just jump to buying a new battery just to make sure that its NOT the battery. New vehicle so I'm timid to tear into her.