2005 300C~Won't crank but everything seems good... - Chrysler 300C Forum: 300C & SRT8 Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Question 2005 300C~Won't crank but everything seems good...

Electricial, I think... It's wierd the way this happens. Don't mean to ramble but I have to start from the beginning for it to make sense. The first time this problem happened was on Thanksgiving Day 2012. Everything was running fine. Arrived at my son's house at around 1pm, parked the car, ate dinner, shoot shyt, ready to leave. At around 6pm unlocked the car with the remote, door chimed, seat adjusted, lights turned on, then BAM, car won't start. It acts like the battery is dead but it's not because the dash lights, radio, headlights everything still works. Checked the starter, fuses, everything good...I keep trying to start it (5/6 times) all of a sudden... no dash lights, radio out, windows won't work, but headlights still on. After about 30-45 minutes, lights on but what the hell, I got a jump and it cranked up. Everything is running good until today....

Today, January 27, 2013 (2 months later)- It did the same thing again! Drove the car to the start (about 15 minutes). Turned it off, went in, came out. Everything normal but it wont crank. Checked the battery, Good. Checked the Fuses all good. Checked the starter Good. One thing i noticed was, the starter relay was working but it would do turn. When I turned the key it didn't even click. So...what did I do? Got a jump. It cranked up and ran all day without a problem.

Do anybody have any ideas to what might be going on? I was thinking maybe the battery was going bad but it's been very cold her lately and I've had no hesitation when starting in the morning. So, I'm completely at a lost!
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 04:55 AM
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It's most likely the battery. There is so much electrical devices in the car, it will power some of them, but not have enough power to start. Mine did it to me on my wedding day! No warning, except for a slow start the day before. Go to an auto parts store and have it checked, garauntee it's not good anymore..

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 06:51 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Charliedrums38,
Thanks for your reply. I actually went to the auto parts yesterday and had the battery and the starter checked. The guy said, both were good but I'm with you on this one. It's like, the battery still has some power but it's just not enough to keep it going. The puzzling thing is, it doesn't happen all the time. I mean, once every two months. I thought that if the battery was bad, the freezing weather we had would tell but it started as usual but even in cold...hummmm... I failed to mention, I also had him check for a default code. Everytime he plugged in the monitor, it came on then kicked off. It wouldn't stay on. I really hate to buy a new battery and it ends up not being the problem but I guess I have to start the process of elimination at some point to find out what it is.

Thanks again Charliedrums38...appreciate cha!
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 07:46 AM
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If the battery is the original in your 2005 model 300, I would also suggest replacing it first to ensure there are enough cold cranking amps available to support the entire vehicle. Most batteries have about a 5 year "lifespan".
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks ChryslerCares!

CharlieDrum38 and I think it's the same thing. I'm going to purchase on when I get off of work today. I'll follow-up and let you guys know if that solves the problem.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 11:17 AM
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One other item may be a main power connection at the battery +, - or starter terminals. Make sure they are clean and in good repair. A 7 year old battery may be the only problem you have.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-18-2013, 06:27 AM
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had a similar problem ..car starting and running fine ..then came out wouldnt crank everything else seem fine ...towed car home ..next morning put jump leads on it an started first time ...think its maybe due to short runs and the auto lights switched on just too much electrics on these things ...if anyones got this problem its worth a try
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-02-2014, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carmen3782 View Post
had a similar problem ..car starting and running fine ..then came out wouldnt crank everything else seem fine ...towed car home ..next morning put jump leads on it an started first time ...think its maybe due to short runs and the auto lights switched on just too much electrics on these things ...if anyones got this problem its worth a try
Mine just did the same thing. Running the car all week no problem. This morning car started fast like it had a new battery. When it cranks, its not a slow crank like when the battery is going out. It cranks and starts quickly. About a half hour after I parked it this morning, went back out and no crank! Nothing. On my dash I keep getting the "RKE Battery Low", been looking at that for the last two months. After replacing those batteries the warning never went away and the car starts fine. But today nothing. Thought maybe someone here would have figured this out cus I think a lot of people are having the same problem.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 07:38 PM
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In the engine compartment on the passenger side towards the front of the vehicle is the Integrated Power Module. Connecting to the Integrated Power Module is a red plastic covered power cable which is where you would attach the positive post if you were going to jump start the vehicle. The booster cable placement is marked on the cover of the Integrated Power Module. Over the past few months, I had intermittent power problems that were getting worse leading to my car not starting. In exploring the Integrated Power Module, to check the fuses, I noted that the nut holding the red plastic covered power cable was loose, as in I could screw and unscrew it with my fingers. As soon as I tightened down the nut the vehicle started. I have no idea how it could have become loose in the first place.

I then took the nut off and pulled the red plastic covered power cable to inspect it. I noted that there was a lot of pitting and oxidation between the two metal surfaces indicating arcing across the surfaces. In addition the metal surface of the Integrated Power Module where the red plastic covered power cable connected was not seated flush with the plastic surrounding it, and there was an approximate 1/32 of an inch gap on one side which, would explain the oxidation and pitting from arcing. I used a dremel and cleaned both surfaces. I then got a washer, coated it with lithium grease and inserted on the bolt between the red plastic covered power cable and the metal surface of the Integrated Power Module; problem solved. This appears to be a manufacturing defect. The local Chrysler dealership never came by to tow the vehicle in, so I worked on it myself. Hope this helps.
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