UPDATE: THERE IS NOW 2 PICs INCLUDED AS ATTACHMENTs AT BOTTOM OF POST. CREDTI GOES TO 3002NV- HE WAS SELLING HIS SRT CALIPERS AND PICS INCLUDE ENTIRE SPINDLE/ROTOR/STEERING KNUCKLE ASSEMBLY, SO YOU CAN SEE EXACTLY WHAT I'M DESCRIBING. I'VE ADDED ARROWS AND DESCRIPTIONS TO AREAS IN QUESTION.
I posted about this problem months ago:
After speculating, some (including myself) suspected either, the steering angle sensor, the dynamics sensor, need of alignment, or dirty damaged wheel motion sensor.
The symptoms may include, but not limited to:
The obvious ESP BAS ABS indicators are on (this means that these systems respectively, have been disabled by the ECM). There will be no DTC's present, as technically there is NO system failure. During low speed driving, applying gently on the brakes causes the ABS system to energize(you'll feel the pulses in the pedal), even though there are no slippery road conditions present. The lights appear to come on and off randomly, accompanied by a warning chime. Problem may appear to remedy itself in very wet driving conditions.
In ANY case, whatever can cause the ESP ABS or BAS light to come on, as a security precaution the ECM will disable these systems respectively, and will also disable the cruise control function as an added safety precaution.
If your vehicle has similiar symptoms, then the likely cause of this, is that the sensors cannot do their jobs because of debris, dust and dirt. That explains the lack of DTC's.
DISCLAIMER: If your car IS throwing DTC's, in conjunction with the ESP BAS ABS indicators, and has other symptoms which are NOT described, then this MAY NOT work for you. YMMV, please don't come complaining! I lived with this condition for over three months, last winter. Cleaning the wheel sensors and hub surfaces worked for ME, it MAY not work for you, as there are other conditions that can trigger the ESP BAS ABS lights to come on.
Well, now that the weather has warmed up here in Calgary( and I FOUND my wheel key) I got ambitious and pulled the front wheels off. I removed the sensors, wiped them clean, as well as wiped clean the inboard faces of the hub bearings, and voila! NO MORE PROBLEMS! As Occam's Razor says: All things being equal, the simplest expanation "usually" tends to be the right one.
Before you venture out to a dealer, who will likely sing the tale of defective modules, and diagnostic charges, regardless of warranty, here's how to do it:
UPDATE: PICS INCLUDED AT BOTTOM OF POST! Credit to forum member 3002NV (he was selling his SRT calipers on another thread)
STEP 1) Firmly apply parking brake, and raise the vehicle on a flat-and level surface if possible. Lest you desire to have a horrific accident and eat front rotor to the face, I STRONGLY SUGGEST JACKSTANDS, and avoid relying on a jack alone to support the vehicle. Use factory jacking points- don't raise the car with the weight on the lower control arms, as you probably won't have enough clearance to look up, over, and behind the rotor.
If you've chosen to raise the entire front end at once, you may be able to turn the steering wheel in the direction that you are on for added access, but this is not necessary, and definitely DO NOT turn the wheel if the opposite front wheel is still touching the ground. The car may shift and fall off the jack!
STEP 2) Remove front wheel, or wheels (depending if you raised entire front end at once or not). If the thought of removing your wheels seems daunting to you, then STOP READING NOW, and forget you ever found this thread. Look up "Honest Abe's Dodge chrysler Jeep" in the phonebook- It's probably not there. J/K
Have a friend who is a gear head to help you. Make sure you graciously provide beer (preferrably) after his services (not during-remember rotor-to-face example).
STEP 3)(SEE INCLUDED PICS AT BOTTOM OF POST) Once wheel/s removed, look up and over the rotor- follow the sensor cable to the inboard side of the steering knuckle. You should see a sensor held in place by a 10mm bolt. By looking at it alone, you will notice that the sensor body, travels through a cavity in the steering knuckle, and reads movement as it "sees" the inboard side of the wheel hub bearing. This is a place where dirt and debris can easily get to. In my case there was a light film of grease over this surface that little grains of dirt love to stick to. To the sensor itself they probably look like boulders!
STEP 4) Using a 10mm socket, remove the bolt and washer. Twist the base of the sensor gently back and forth to break it loose. pull it straight out the back of the steering knuckle base. You will now see the sensor in all it's glory- looks like a rectangular shaft. Use a damp cloth, and wipe the sensor clean ESPECIALLY the square tip, (eye) as this is how it gets it's readings. Do not reinstall sensor yet.
STEP 5) (SEE PICS AT BOTTOM OF POST) Using a damp cloth, wipe the inboard side of the bearing- you can hold the cloth in place with your finger, and use your other hand to turn the rotor. repeat this as necessary to ensure all dirt and debris, has been wiped away.
STEP 6) Reinstall sensor, and tighten snug, but don't crank on it, as it IS plastic. refit your wheels, and lug nuts. Once your car is lowered, torque the lug nuts in a criss-cross star pattern to 110 ft/lbs (SRT)- (may be same torque value for 18" 5.7L wheels-not sure)
IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to the intermittent nature of this condition, when you first start you car, the ESP BAS ABS lights may still be illuminated. This is because the ECM still remembers the last state that the system was in prior to the sensor cleaning. IF IN FACT dirty sensors were the culprit, once you put the car in "drive" and start moving, the indicators will go away, ESP BAS ABS and cruise control functions will be restored.
STEP 7) If all has gone as planned, pat yourself on the back, as cheating the dealer out of your hard earned money, is analogous, as having cheated the Grim Reaper himself! lol.
Also, keep in mind that I didn't do this to the rear wheels, as it was not necessary. Had the condition still been present, that would've been my next step. YMMV and you MAY have to do this as well to rule out the desision of going to the dealer. The rear sensors may or may not have a different design, and MAY or MAY not be prone to the accumulation of dirt and debris. As I have not closely inspected them, I cannot say.
A few minutes of your time, and you may save yourself a trip to the dealer, and who knows what THEY would have come up with! Not-to mention losing the use of your car, while they keep it for three, or more days!
Just remember: Safety first- USE JACKSTANDS, as you don't want to rely on a jack alone while your head is between the wheel well and rotor.