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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Car wanders to the right

The subject sounds simple right? Car wanders to the right could be just about anything. well I have replaced and looked over just about everything on this car.

Last year I had an alignment done on the car. The guy mechanic came back and thought my car had been in an accident or hit a curb and cause the whole engine, camber, caster, toe to be moved out of factory setting. So he adjusted to the best he could by moving the engine back to the factory. BTW the rims are fine nothing on tires were damaged. He told me the tie rods were bad (inner) they had play in them. the outside ones look fine. I had both inner tie rods replaced because there was play in the tires and the car was wandering to the right. Once again get back on the road the car is pulling to the right the tires are out of balance causing the car the shake too. So I had the tires rebalanced. went back again for the to do more adjustments. Nothing was changed still pulls to the right. They said I could need new struts to make a "Proper" alignment. So I finally went to another mechanic and he checked the struts out and told me they look fine and nothing looks mechanically damaged. So this mechanic refers me to another alignment shop. I go to that shop and they change the alignment drastically. Once again drove the car it still pulls to the right. This alignment shop said it has to be the tires. So I bought new tires. Once again the car keeps pulling to the right. So they changed the toe setting is what it seems like because the car steering wheel will be turned to the left a little while driving and it somewhat pulls to the left on braking and other points in time. But yet again it still pulls to the right. Now im dealing with uneven tire ware and just and endless money pit. Also I want to mention that when The final shop aligned it the last time the steering wheel felt a lot looser than the previous alignments. They said "It could also be your steering box if your car feels light" Also one of my mechanics said he noticed a small leak in my power fluid month back when I had an oil change. dont know if that has to do with anything. never had that fixed because he hasnt mentioned it any time lately.

So im in this dilemma of not knowing what I should do to make this damn thing go strait down the road! PLEASE HELP its driving my OCD through the roof
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 12:37 PM
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If memory serves, back in 2005 there was an issue with pulling to the right and was related to engine mount/cradle or something of the like. I think it was an early build 2005 issue. What is your MDH from the driver's door sticker... the upper right should tell you month and year, the MDH will give you numberical Month, day and hour off the assembly line.

You mentioned a lot of shops and alignments, but not that you actually took it to a reputable Chrysler dealer for diagnosis and remedy. Is that not an option for you?

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 12:42 PM
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Car: '15 300C Platinum Jazz Blue; '07 MSRT8 Bright Silver MSRT: Edelbrock SC w/ InTune, 402flaps, Stealth HIDs, misc BT stuff, dual pin stripes, 35% tint 300C Pt: 35% tint, SpLx Pedal Set so far
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Found this reference to the TSB back then. Do a search on "Pulls to the right" and you'll find lots of threads dating back to late 2004... the first half of the 2005 model year. Hope this provides something that will resolve your issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by joey View Post
Here is the TSB.
-----------------------------------------------------
NUMBER: 02-003-04
DATE: May 25, 2004

SUBJECT:
Right Lead

OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves adjusting the alignment to revised specifications.

MODELS:
2005 (LX) 300/Magnum

NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles built prior to April 25, 2004 (MDH 0425XX).

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The vehicle operator states the vehicle leads to the right.

DIAGNOSIS:
Drive the car on a FLAT road. If the car tracks straight, the vehicle operator is experiencing crown sensitivity. If the vehicle tracks to the right, perform the Repair Procedure. Crown sensitivity can not be eliminated in all the cases. Vehicles built on or after April 25, 2004 already have the alignment biased and no further action should be required or taken by the dealer other than verifying the vehicle is set at the revised specifications listed in this bulletin.

NOTE: Before evaluating the vehicle, it is important to check the following:
1. Tire pressure - Adjust tire pressure (if necessary) in all four wheels to the pressure stated on the door placard.
2. Tire size & type - Verify that all four tires are the same size and type.

NOTE: When evaluating the vehicle, always drive the same road in both directions to get a feel for the effect of road crown & cross wind.

SPECIAL TOOLS/EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
NPN Alignment Equipment

REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1. Use the procedures outlined on TechCONNECT to set the wheel alignment to the specifications below.


NUMBER: 02-003-04
GROUP: Suspension
DATE: May 25, 2004

NOTE: When aligning the front end to induce right caster bias (the vehicle will tend to track toward the side with the least positive caster), target the cross caster to be -0.8 degree and no more than -1.3 degrees. That means you will have more caster on the right than on the left. Cross camber should be set in at +0.2 - +0.3 degree. That means you will have more camber on the left than on the right. Utilize the cradle shift method PRIOR to using the caster/camber adjustment bolt kit, p/n 05134117AA. The adjustment bolts only provide about 0.2 - 0.3 degree change and should only be used as a last resort. When shifting the cradle, the passenger side of the cradle will move forward in car and the driver's side will move rearward in car.

NOTE: After the cradle has been shifted, torque all 4 cradle bolts to 175Nm (130 ft. lbs.).

CAUTION: If an adjustment bolt is to be installed do not allow the bolt head to turn during disassembly or assembly, the cradle tension link joint or the lower control arm bushing inner metal sleeve will be destroyed and require replacement. THE NUT MUST BE UNTORQUED AND REMOVED, BEFORE THE BOLT. Once the nut is removed the bolt can be slid out.

REVISED ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS

FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE
CAMBER - LEFT -0.1° -0.60° to +0.40°
CAMBER - RIGHT -0.20° -0.70° to +0.30°
Cross-Camber (Maximum side-to-side difference) 0.20° -0.30 to +0.60°
CASTER - LEFT +10.30° +9.00° to +12.10°
CASTER - RIGHT +11.10° +9.00° to +12.10°
Cross-Caster (Maximum side-to-side difference) -0.80° -1.30 to -0.50°
INDIVIDUAL TOE 0.10° -0.05° to +0.15°
TOTAL TOE** +0.20° 0.00° to +0.40°
Maximum side-to-side difference 0.00° 0.06°
RIDE HEIGHT - INDIVIDUAL 328mm (12 15/16 in.) 318 to 338mm (12 1/2 to 13 3/8 in.)
CROSS RIDE HEIGHT 0 -12 to +12mm (1/2 in.)

REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE

CAMBER* -0.75° -1.25° to -0.25°
Cross-Camber (Maximum side-to-side difference) 0.00° -0.50 to 0.50°
INDIVIDUAL TOE 0.10° -0.05° to +0.25°


02-003-04 -2-
FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE
THRUST ANGLE 0.0° -0.50° to +0.50°
RIDE HEIGHT - INDIVIDUAL 296mm (11 5/8 in.) 286 to 306mm (11 1/4 to 12 in.)
CROSS RIDE HEIGHT 0 -12 to +12mm (1/2 in.)

Notes:
Vehicle height and suspension alignment values reflect after vehicle spring settling values.
* For reference only. These are non-adjustable angles.
** TOTAL TOE is the sum of both left and right wheel toe settings. TOTAL TOE must be equally
split between each front wheel to ensure the steering wheel is centered after setting toe. Positive
toe is toe-in and negative toe is toe-out


POLICY:
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.


TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation No: Description Amount
02-00-02-90 Set Front and Rear Toe / Center Steering Wheel 0.7 Hrs.
02-00-01-91 Alignment Using Cradle Adjustment and Set
Front and Rear Toe / Center Steering Wheel
1.0 Hrs.


FAILURE CODE:
LM Leads Right


-3- 02-003-04
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 05:22 PM
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Did anybody look at the tension struts?

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoofyTimL View Post
Found this reference to the TSB back then. Do a search on "Pulls to the right" and you'll find lots of threads dating back to late 2004... the first half of the 2005 model year. Hope this provides something that will resolve your issue.
Wow this really might be the problem then! The MFR says 3-04. So yes my car was made early 2004. And the chrysler dealership says that my struts needed to be changed after I got it back from them putting in a new fuel tank. But the struts look fine and rebound is stiff. The only thing I hear is squeaking when going over bumps. Dont know if that is bad bushings or the actual strut. But could this TSB actually help!?
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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This also must be why the mechanic said "Wow did your car get into an accident" because it possibly could have been put to these settings for this model. Thus having them align it made it that much worse! Could be it. Might have to drop another $75 to get it all changed. But I just read warranty too so would it be free to get an alignment done or no?

Last edited by Garrett Craig; 08-26-2015 at 05:39 PM.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 07:55 PM
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Your dealer should be able to look up the VIN and tell whether the TSB was ever done, and/or undone by one of the alignment shops that didn't know about the early model specs. It cetainly seems to fit the facts. I think with your record of payments made trying to fix this problem, FCA might just pick up the tab, as they should. But who knows.
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