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New TPMS sensors installed, but "problem" still exists

22K views 45 replies 13 participants last post by  Jim777 
#1 ·
I had the sensors put in today and yeah, I expected at least something to go off without a hitch. When will I ever learn?

When i get the car back at the tire shop, of coarse it comes up with the audible and the "Check TPM System" warning and goes to the little icon of the car and blanks for tire pressures.

I drive it for a short while and as, what has been become the norm, the audible and warning again. But this time the icon is surrounded by numbers.... the tire pressures! Yay! Right? (and the vibration that felt like wheel balance being off, feels same or worse at times)

Except, why the warning if they are working correctly? I notice that the pressures were 35-35-36-32 so I think, no more like I hope, that the 32 psi is little low and setting it off. I get home and throw a gauge on it that is accurate and it read about 35.5 when the car indicated 32. Now all pressures are 35-36 on the car's readout but still, as before, the TPM System warning continues to ring out and change the display.

And the irritation continues. Anyone know the next step to rectify this? Now it's more irritating as I've spent bunch of money and it's not correct.
 

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#3 ·
^ This... I did get in a big debate regarding Dorman sensors on another thread. Not sure if yours are but in my experience I wouldn't buy anything other than oem sensors (if mine was still turned on ?) as the failure rate in others is too high for the time it takes to install...

Anyway... All is not lost.., it can take some time and quite a few miles for new sensors to pickup a reading from the new sensors... I hope that's your issue and it clears up shortly with some more miles put on it.

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#4 ·
I definitely do not disregard your opinions about OEM vs aftermarket, coming with motorcycle history there are many posts you just get OEM.
The sensors are Dorman and the deciding factor on these over OEM, was Chrysler says they won't warranty them if installed on non OEM wheels, so if they don't fit or break, I'm SOL at a higher price. If Les breaks them out they don't fit, they will try another or replace it on the spot. They do enough of them that they have many in stock.

With some down time today, I found some posts where one of the front receivers came unplugged and showed the same issues as mine. Hoping that's all it is, or maybe just more time on the road. I put more air in them this morning and the numbers reflect it on the readout, but still says Check TPM System on start up.
 
#5 ·
I have the same problem Jim, had the yellow tire warning light flashing and evic showing check tpm system. Had all new sensors replaced, no more yellow tire light, but usually on start up and after driving bout ten minutes, chime and evic check tpm system, I just put it back to compass setting and won't come back on for awhile, this is after a 1300 mile trip recently, so no hopes of calibration time there...lol! Anyway, no solution known other than possible intermittent receiver problem? Let me know if you figure out a cause.
 
#7 ·
I went through it too... 2 sets of sensors and got sick of it... Bought a tire pressure checker for 6 bucks and had a pal shut off the TPMS with a starscan, jobs a good one! Lol

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#8 ·
Quick update: Today was a long one so no time for long drives but I may have been on the freeway for around 10 minutes.
Anyway, what I noticed right off that's different now, is that there is no longer the flashing dash light (of the tire cross section with the ! inside of it) when it dings and goes to the pressure readings. Now it's just one ding and and it comes up. This morning I clicked off and back to the speedo, but this evening I didn't and it went back to the speedo on its own.

This morning the Check TPM System came up right away but this evening it did not, but it did eventually while on the way home.

The service manual only makes reference to if the light flashes every 10 minutes or if it's on steady. So I'm hoping that means when I stick my head in the wheel well, I'll see something obvious.

Note: I just looked at the service manual and saw where the front transponder is located and realized that when I bought the car, the front splash guard was worn and cut away partially and there was "electronics" exposed. By that I mean there was wiring going to something. Turns out, that was the transponder. I remember trying to figure out which way the locking red clip needed to be in order to get the plug to separate. I never got it to and gave up, so maybe I partially unplugged.

Will look tomorrow!
 
#24 · (Edited)
See below
Jim exactly where is the transponder you mentioned located?
Sorry, never saw this. It was the right front.


Update:
I haven't been focused on this lately. As I thought, I had posted I think on another thread that I had tried something and hadn't had any light or bells in days. But about 2 days later it was back. I read too much and get little frustrated and have to walk away and revisit with fresh eyes.

So from then through this morning, it's pretty much the same thing, a few "bings", no yellow indicator light, and a Check TPM System on the EVIC. Usually at start up or shortly after and then every so often depending on how long I'm driving it for.

After Les Schwab installed them its been doing this. With the exception of the drive to and from Idaho where the left rear (the corner without a transponder) would drop off the radar and return repeatedly, this is daily. Also, I would have the same pressures in all 4 tires, but the TPMS would indicate the right front would show lower by 2-4 psi. When I tried to drop the pressure below the threshold of 28psi, it was the LEFT front that indicated a drop in pressure. So the fronts are swapped.

I figured, for the time being, I would know that accurate or not, if the rears and the left front indicated 35 psi and the right front indicated 32, then were good, all about 37 (by my gauge). I found a pic of the receipt for the sensors and when I googled it, they came up as Schrader sensors. I went to their site and looked at their instructions on "programming" and it was as you'd expect. Drive it.

I also was viewing search results which resulted in many sites and therefore many "solutions", including "depress emergency brake, turn the headlights on and off three times until the horn beeps...."

Yeah I tried it. Felt stupid.

So there are old posts about reprogramming the sensors and people would get hung up, not on the solution, but correcting people that the sensors are not programmed at all. But there are many asking about "resetting" the TPMS so it can "relearn" and that to me made sense, especially after reading about how they learn and determine sensor locations. nothing definite was found but one was easy to try and that was pulling the #11 fuse, so I did so after the car had been sitting all night. I started the car and behold, within about 10 seconds the fault chimed in and there was my psi readings: 34-34-34-31

After work when I got home, I pulled the fuse and let it sit for about 15-20 minutes (maybe that long) and I aired down the left front by 6 pounds which should show the right front on the EVIC to about 26 psi, enough for it to trip the low pressure indicator. However, I started to back out the driveway and drive and I went in to the readings and DAMN! The left rear shows low!

Air down the left front and the right front shows low. Air the same tire and now the left rear shows low. WTF.

Ready to call it quits on that for the day, I rechecked all tires and 3 of them were at 38 and the left front at 32. I put it at 38, went inside and got some stuff together to leave for the evening, got in the car and drove off.

I got about 3/4 miles from the house and the fault bing came up. but this time it's showing 34 psi on all four corners! Actual forward motion in straightening this out? IDK but I hope I actually did something to get the TPMS to relearn, because I really think the fault has something to do with the rear transponder based on the Idaho trip. The rear pressures adjusted by the time I got the photo snapped.






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#12 ·
I so do that all the time.

There's three of them. I checked the two fronts and unfortunately they were nice and tight. Haven't looked for the rear yet.
going back on Friday to Les Schwab for the tie rod and alignment. Gonna ask them to check rear hubs for correct torque and double check the sensors.

Still, it's better than having the multiple bing-ing, low tire light flashing and missing pressures. One ding, pressures displayed... still, I'm too anal and will continue to follow up.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Ok, just how accurate should the sensors be? The right front showed 35 yesterday and this morning before work. With an accurate gauge, it read 37-38, so I aired it up to an even 40. Didn't expect a change right away, but after leaving work, I hit the freeway for about 6-7 miles, then in town to destination. Before getting there, the ding and the display. I was surprised to see the same number. When I get back home km check it against actual pressure.
EDIT: got home and pressure was up to 42 and still reading 35. Wonder if that is enough evidence that they'll recheck them.

But should they be accurate?
 
#16 ·
Ok, just how accurate should the sensors be? The right front showed 35 yesterday and this morning before work. With an accurate gauge, it read 37-38, so I aired it up to an even 40. Didn't expect a change right away, but after leaving work, I hit the freeway for about 6-7 miles, then in town to destination. Before getting there, the ding and the display. I was surprised to see the same number. When I get back home km check it against actual pressure.
EDIT: got home and pressure was up to 42 and still reading 35. Wonder if that is enough evidence that they'll recheck them.

But should they be accurate?
Update:
that tire with the indicated 35 psi was the right front. This morning I checked it and it was still 40 spot on. With regards to left front, left rear and right rear, they were indicating 37, 38, and 38 respectively. Actual gauge psi was 37, 38, and 35!

Wait, what? Coincidence? Is it getting the locations confused?
I aired it to 40 to see if the right front on the dash changes.
I let the car warm up while I got stuff together, then left. I was probably down the street and around the corner before I remembered to look and now the right front was at 38 from 35 and the rear (that I just aired up from 35 to 40) showed a couple psi less.
Weird.

I remember reading while researching this, someone suggested airing down the tires one at a time until system threw a warning then airing it back up before moving to the next tire. IDK, maybe...
 
#14 ·
My sensors correspond quite well with a manual gauge. You shouldn't see differences like 42/35. The sensors are not intended to provide accurate measurements, but are there to warn against significant departures from normal and the Owner's Manual recommends that tyres are checked regularly with a manual gauge. However, I only check my tyres manually (other than visually) when the TPMS readings give me cause for concern.
 
#19 ·
Well, not long after that shot was taken, was driving and either started working again, or the rear wheel caught up and mounted itself. Usually in my work, an intermittent problem like that indicates a battery wearing out. And since they are not changeable, hopefully they will replace it.

As far as the numbers, it's weird that they can be all over the board.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Edit: below when referring to testing sensors, I meant the TPMS "receiver" modules.
--------------------------


Don't know if anyone is even looking at this thread anymore but quick question.

I'm in the middle of my 900+ mile drive on vacation and yesterday numerous times the yellow TPMS light would flash and when I looked, this time it was always the left rear indicated sensor shows as missing. But then it would come back either during the drive or upon next start up (lots of stops with kids).

On many electrical posts on the motorcycle, testing consists of metering certain pins for specific voltage, amps, resistance, etc. Was hoping this would be the case with the sensors, so I can rule them out.

Eventually I'll try and decipher the service manual, but until I get a chance thought I'd ask if anyone knows how to test the sensors? Are they all the same? And lastly, where is the one in the rear located?

Thanks





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#23 ·
[Talks to self] Wonder if amount of time driving has anything to do with it. Since being here in Idaho, hasn't "dropped" a sensor again. Might try the Les Schwab near here and see what they say if they consider it warranted.

At the "camp site"


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#25 · (Edited)
I have the exact same problem. I get the ding pretty much every day, usually within a few minutes of start up, and the display shows all four tire pressures, but not at the right locations. If one tire ever reads low, I get out and visually inspect all four tires. If it's not obvious which one is low, I check the pressures with my gauge.


It started the day that I had my local Chrysler dealer (Dallas Dodge) do an oil change and tire rotation...immediately upon leaving the stealership, I got the ding and the readout. So, of course, I blame them for messing something up on purpose, so I would come back for another service call. I turned around and went right back to the stealership, and they said it was because the tires had been rotated, so I just needed to drive 10+ miles for the system to relearn. I was skeptical, because I had always done my own rotations in my driveway prior to this visit, and had never had this happen. Nonetheless, I took their word for it, but it never corrected itself. The next time I had enough spare time to go back to the dealer during their business hours, too much time had gone by and they refused to take responsibility. Unfortunately for Dallas Dodge, this event caused me to distrust them and I no longer go there for any service visits or new car purchases.


Anyway, that was many years ago now, and the TPMS system still does this every day. I long ago got used to it and it's actually a good thing, because it makes me aware of my tire pressures where I otherwise wouldn't have a clue. Still, having said that, I prefer when stuff works as intended, so if anyone ever figures this out, I would like to know. Subscribed...
 
#26 ·
I have had 2 sensors put in at a shop which never took and had to have oem ones ordered. Mine has actually swapped and told me it is my rear drivers that isn't working when my front doesn't even have a sensor in it lol... not sure what happened there. But oem are best that I found...
 
#27 ·
Drivers rear is the corner that does not have a transponder on it, not that it makes any difference.

At this point, I no longer suspect the sensors are an issue. After pulling fuse 11, letting it sit that way for a while, lowering the pressure significantly on one front, return the fuse, then drive for about 3 minutes. Then repeating process but return pressure to correct amount. After that, the location and pressures indicated on the EVIC straightened out.
I think the first pulling off the fuse and possibly the letting of the pressure was probably unnecessary. I probably didn't have the fuse pulled long enough for it to have to "relearn" the sensors.


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#29 ·
Eh, the "fix" for me wasn't that long but the improvement has been non-stop. The sensors have consistently shown the same pressure (when all tires are aired up the same), the positions are still consistent (consistently wrong but the same), and I get the occasional TPMS fault sounds. But still, I had the right rear going down and though it was not showing in that place, it showed in the location I'd recorder previously. Still good for not worrying about it,
 
#30 ·
Thought I shouldn't start a new thread since this is about the continuation of this issue, but hopefully it'll been looked at and someone will be able to help.

I thought the results were only on the front right transponder, and when Crunkz1 suggested running my own wire to bypass wherever the issue is, I was all over it. I've looked at the wiring diagram too many times and seemed sound. I thought I covered all my bases and made the first cut of the circuit, but then something made me look again. I realized that I was looking at the schematic like it was an actual path. I spliced the wire and checked both left and right fronts and as I know suspected, if all three splice to the same circuit, then if there's a short, all three should show it. Checked and both fronts do but didn't check rear just because it was late and the car was parked in a way I couldn't.

So attached you'll see the diagram. I could not find online anything definite to tell me whether the LX48 option or the LX49 option would pertain to my car, maybe someone can enlighten me there. So I see three connectors and figure I can unplug them one by one and see if I can't isolate the short to a smaller run. With the three transponders being one end of the circuit to test and the connector to the wireless control module being the other, maybe I can isolate the short on one of the transponder runs. Now correct me on this if needed, but as I see it on the diagram, if I disconnect connector C103 the short will either still be present on the right transponder if it is a LX48 and not if LX49 (providing the short is after the connector). In the morning, or is that later today, I'll check that.

Now at this point I have found connector C102 under the dash, which is the closest connecter to the WCM. When I disconnected it I thought it was C104 and in the confusion I tested the fronts again and they were clear. Whether C104 or C102 the contacts were to small to get continuity between either side to the WCM connector. Bottom line, C103 may have been disconnected when checking the fronts so I'll redo those too.

I couldn't find the C104 connector which could isolate the rear transponder so I'll include that page of the manual showing where it is, for some reason I'm just not seeing it. If you can tell for sure....

Hopefully some of you will read this far and have some insight. Thanks!


The diagnostic details:
View attachment TPMS_wiring-Z2.pdf

Wiring diagram:
View attachment TPMS_wiring-Z1.pdf

C104 location:
View attachment C104_location.pdf
 
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