Fuel Pump Issue - Chrysler 300C Forum: 300C & SRT8 Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-15-2007, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel Pump Issue

Okay I have an issue. While my car was at the paint shop it started and was moved often. Today when I went to go pick it up the car the battery was almost dead and when I tried to start it it just started clicking. About 4 hours before we started it to move it into a different bay and it started fine. Now it acts like the fuel pump is out. We even tested for power at the fuel pump and ther was none. I was there the whole time and saw nothing done that could cause this. We installed the front and rear glass and the rear bumper. Thats all we did to finish the project but now this issue. Is it possible that the sentry key could be causing this? Does it dissable the fuel pump? Also does anyone know were the fuel pump relay is? Any help would be great. I am really getting upset I wanted my car back today. Thanks in advance for anyone help.

29 of 263 2005 300C SRT8.
26th 2005 300C SRT8 placed into service.
V2 Pilot model.

Last edited by Grider68; 12-15-2007 at 11:19 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2007, 09:48 AM
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<Bump>

i don't know.. anyone else???

My name is Steve, but you can call me Cueball.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2007, 09:56 AM
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I think the first thing we need to know is if your check engine light is on. Secondly, if there are any codes in your EVIC.

To check for codes...

Put your key in the ignition and cycle ACC/ON ACC/ON ACC/ON in quick succession. If you have any codes they'll show in your EVIC display. Post your findings if any.

You should also check both power control centres and ensure all the fuses are good and properly seated.

Bernie



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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2007, 10:09 AM
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I just thought of something else. I have no idea what the circumstances of your car being painted are, but did they at one time disconnect your battery? It could simply be a matter that someone forgot to tighten the terminals. I know that's a stretch, but it might be worthwhile confirming.

Bernie
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2007, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the data. Yes the terminals are tight. I will go back over to the paint shop in a few and check the codes. How do I check the power control centres? I also noticed that might Electronic throttle control light is flashing with the engine light can this cause the fuel pump to not come on?
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2007, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grider68 View Post
Thanks for the data. Yes the terminals are tight. I will go back over to the paint shop in a few and check the codes. How do I check the power control centres? I also noticed that might Electronic throttle control light is flashing with the engine light can this cause the fuel pump to not come on?
Well, the fact you have lights showing tells me there must be codes. The power distribution centres are located under the hood on the left side as you look from the front and in the trunk on the right side. just open the covers.

Bernie
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2007, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thinking about it the shop owners son was in the car and he had the key on and was playing around in there. Im wondering if he might have done an incorrect reset by accident of the electronic throttle control.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2007, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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The Codes are P0627, P0499, P2122, P2127 . I did the navigation button + music symbol and looked at the pedal position while I depressed it and nothing it sits at zero percent. I guess I need some clear ETC reset or setting procudure.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2007, 02:51 PM
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P0627- Fuel Pump Relay Circuit

P0499- nvld Canister Vent Valve Solenoid Circuit High

P2122-Throttle/Pedal Pos Sensor/Switch D Circ Low Input

P2127-Throttle/Pedal Pos Sensor/Switch E Circ Low Input

I honestly don't know what these codes mean, but it does in fact look like it has to do with an electrical fault with your fuel pump circuit. I'd start by killing the kid who was in your car first though. Well, as long as he's over 18 anyway.

As far as P0627 goes, this is what it says:


When Monitored:
With the ignition on. Battery voltage greater than 10.4 volts.

Set Condition: An open or shorted condition is detected in the fuel pump relay control circuit. One Trip Fault. Three good trips to turn off the MIL.

POSSIBLE CAUSES
(F20) FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT CIRCUIT
(A109) FUSED B+ CIRCUIT
(K31) FUEL PUMP RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT
(K31) FUEL PUMP RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
FUEL PUMP RELAY
PCM

DIAGNOSTIC TESTS

1. FUEL PUMP RELAY OPERATION


Ignition on, engine not running.
With a scan tool, actuate the Fuel Pump Relay.
Is the Fuel Pump Relay operating?

Yes >> Refer to the INTERMITTENT CONDITION Diagnostic Procedure. Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE STANDARD PROCEDURE)

No



>> Go To 2

2. FUEL PUMP RELAY

Turn the ignition off.
Remove the Fuel Pump Relay from the IPM.
Measure the resistance of the Fuel Pump Relay Coil.
Is the resistance between 70 to 90 ohms?

Yes >> Go To 3
No



>> Replace the Fuel Pump Relay.

Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -STANDARD PROCEDURE)

3. (F20) FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT CIRCUIT


Ignition on, engine not running.
Using a 12-volt test light connected to ground, probe the (F20) Fused Ignition Switch Output circuit.

Does the test light illuminate brightly?
Yes >> Go To 5
No



>> Repair the open or short to ground in the (F20) Fused Ignition Switch Output circuit. Inspect the related fuse and repair as necessary.

Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)

4. (A109) FUSED B+ CIRCUIT


Ignition on, engine not running.
Using a 12-volt test light connected to ground, probe the (A109) Fused
B+ circuit.

Does the test light illuminate brightly?

Yes >> Go To 5
No



>> Repair the open or short to ground in the (A109) Fused B+ circuit. Inspect the related fuse and repair as necessary.

Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
-----------------

I snipped this because it goes on and on with several other tests beyond our comprehension. The bottom line is there's a problem with the circuit relay and I think only your dealer will be able to solve the proble. The interesting part in all of the was the text I bolded and highlighted in red. I'm assuming it will clear itself after 3 good starts. Anyone else???

Bernie




Last edited by Rambit; 12-16-2007 at 02:54 PM.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2007, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Does anyone have the correct relearn procedure for the ETC?

Last edited by Grider68; 12-17-2007 at 08:42 AM.
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