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Tranny slipping into neutral?

36K views 42 replies 24 participants last post by  magnuman 
#1 ·
Has anyone else experienced the transmission slipping into a neutral position when you decelerate then try and accelerate but only the RPMs rise and the car does not engage in any gear? The car shows that the gear is still in drive but feels like it just when into neutral. I maually shifted the car to neutral then back into drive and that seemed to work. The car check engine light came on but did not stay on, any answers???
 
#2 ·
unusual

I haven't heard of this one yet.

Give us some more info on what you were doing when it occurred
 
#40 ·
I was driving up the interstate bout 70mph all of a sudden when I was switching lanes hit some rough pavement ,,no potholes or anything. . But mine went into neutral , but was still in drive . No noises or anything . I’ve seen all the posts about the same problems.. this is what happened to mine .. the center bolt that bolts the yoke in the transmission.. it got loose and backed out . Never a vibration or anything. I guess when I went across that ruff pavement. The yoke came out of transmission. No noises or anything. I was lost .. check that bolt on back of transmission. It can pop out and then yoke pop back in and be fine .
 
#6 ·
i found this info on the LX forum hope this helps you.



Service InformationValvebody

Part Numbers:


  • 52108213A$
Issue Description:

Do not replace the entire Valvebody for an ISOLATED ELECTRICAL ISSUE such as solenoid, speed sensor, or temperature sensor. Also, do not replace the entire Valvebody due to damage of the 13 pin electrical connector. The leadframe itself P.N. 52108308AB contains all the circuitry, speed sensors, and temperature sensors and should be ordered and replaced preventing the unnecessary replacement of the entire Valvebody. In the event of a solenoid fault, you may also want to replace the specified solenoid.
There is a known issue with a 3-4 shift flare or Neutraling out on the 3-4 shift. In most cases this event is accompanied by a P0730, P1731, P0734, and/or P0733 Incorrect Gear Ratio codes. The cause of this event is ferrous or Aluminum debris in the 3-4 Shift Pressure and/or 3-4 Holding valves. Rather than replacing the VB;
1.) Remove the solenoids, leadframe assembly, and bolts securing upper to lower valvebody
2.) Lift upper housing off the VB and turn over. No need to clean the lower housing.
3.) Remove the steel endplate covering the all the 3-4 valves.
4.) Remove the 4 valves and flush out the bores and valves with a solvent such as mineral spirits. Contamination is known to be very small. Hold the housing vertically and flush the bore out generously. Flushing over filter paper (coffee filter) will allow you to observe the debris.
5.) Re-assemble the VB and re-install to roadtest.
6.) Only if the valves are still sticky after the flush or if the 3-4 shift issue persists, should the VB be replaced.
LOP 21-95-01-51 provides 1.2 hours for this repair.
The NAG transmission uses the wheel speed sensors to calculate transmission output shaft speed. If encountering gear ratio errors or late upshifts, please verify all four tires are of proper size as well as front and rear axle ratios. Mismatched tires can cause the module to think the vehicle is turning a corner, and thus delay an upshift. Numerous unnecessary transmission replacements have occurred due to a spare tire, aftermarket tire of incorrect size, incorrect axle, or incorrect gearset in proper axle.
 
#7 ·
I know the trans is a smart trans that will change shift patterns when it is getting to hot to keep it from getting damage. I would say if it was hot out and you were in heavy traffic might do weird stuff but shouldn't under normal conditions.
 
#10 ·
I wanted to update this thread with the work that was done to my car. This problem has been resolved and the car feels great. It was fixed under warranty by the selling dealer. Below are the parts replaced and the costs. I hope this helps someone in the future.

The dealer was not able to fix it so it went to a dedicated transmission shop.

Parts
Planetary Carrier Assy - $242.00
Output Shaft - $354.00
Sun Gear - $339.00
Overhaul Kit - $410.00
Converter - $365.00
ATF - 47.60

Labor
R&R & Recondition Trans. - $1,041.30

Total w/ tax
$2,908.75

Do you transmission guys have any thoughts on this work? Was it overkill? Were they just replacing stuff because they couldn't find the root cause? I'm curious to see what everyone thinks. I hope this helps someone else down the road.
 
#13 ·
any word as to the trouble you having im having the same kinda issues ..my cars tranny was rebuilt and still having issues i can drive it come to a stop then start to drive and tranny slips if i stop turn the car off and restart the motor it drives fine but only works for a few miles and does it again sometimes before it does that it will shift really hard like slamming gears and when it does this i dont get a check engine light .....im into this tranny now almost 6000$ if you or anyone else can help .. now the shop says they got codes ?? i will post the codes im getting in a lil bit
 
#15 ·
The PO171 code is related air/fuel ratio. Google for the code and you'll get a lot of info. That wouldn't be related to the tranny though.

I had two issues related to my transmission that sent it back to the shop.
1) Mechanical issue in the tranmission: There was a groove in one of the parts between 3rd and 4th gear that was causing a hesitation when shifting.
2) Electrical: The computer had to be re-calibrated. This was causing the wonky shift points and hard shifts.

I don't completely understand the mechanics of auto transmissions so excuse my vagueness.

Illnoize, I was having a lot of the issues you describe. They were all solved by recalibrating the onboard computer. The shop I had the work done at did it under the warranty of the original work. The tip-off to me that it was computer-based was that when it would have a lot of trouble, the car wouldn't let me shift into the manual mode. The computer knew it was having an issue and therefore blocked it.
 
#16 ·
they re calibrated the onboard computer like 5 times still the same trouble and a new tcm to IM AT LOST AS OF WHAT TO DO NEXT
 
#19 ·
Did you ever change the tranny fluid and filter?
 
#21 ·
Anyone who had the neutral slipping issue fixed please respond

2008 chrysler 300C just bought used from California dealer within the last month. Car slips into neutral while driving on freeway at its own will. Typically its when there is some stress on the tranny like an abrupt stop or abrupt acceleration. Requires me to pull off the freeway and put car into park and back into drive. Check engine light comes on but disappears before i can take it to the shop. This is extremely dangerous and has happened multiple times.

Random people who dont own, dont work on, arent familiar with, or havent experienced this issue, please do not respond with silly things like "have you changed your transmission fluid" I am not interested in brainstorming over this, this is obviously an issue with the Chrysler 300s hence this entire thread and I am looking for specific answers as to what people who have fixed this issue have done, like a couple posts on the previous page.
 
#25 ·
2008 chrysler 300C just bought used from California dealer within the last month. Car slips into neutral while driving on freeway at its own will. Typically its when there is some stress on the tranny like an abrupt stop or abrupt acceleration. Requires me to pull off the freeway and put car into park and back into drive. Check engine light comes on but disappears before i can take it to the shop. This is extremely dangerous and has happened multiple times.

Random people who dont own, dont work on, arent familiar with, or havent experienced this issue, please do not respond with silly things like "have you changed your transmission fluid" I am not interested in brainstorming over this, this is obviously an issue with the Chrysler 300s hence this entire thread and I am looking for specific answers as to what people who have fixed this issue have done, like a couple posts on the previous page.
Hi zact,
Could you please PM me your VIN so I can look into this concern further?
 
#29 ·
When was the tranny last serviced?
 
#30 ·
I don't know. It's coming up on it's 90k mile work but I was hoping to at least get another month or two before that was done. I have an OBDII BT scanner coming tomorrow, and am trying to find parts for the other 3 ABS sensors to rule that out. The local Chrysler shop has a backlog of 2 weeks so I have time (driving my wife's minivan until I'm sure it's safe/intermittent enough to drive on).

Is there a thread with brand and where to buy the ABS sensors?
 
#32 · (Edited)
OK thank you very much. I'll have to check back and see if that info was in the service records. This was a pre-own from Chrysler dealership. I know it had some maintenance work done on it (spark plugs, etc.) but not sure about tranny stuff. It will be getting it's 90k work done shortly (I normally do all this work myself but want my trusted garage to do the first big once-over).

On better news (I've been taking the wife's car to work) she had to go somewhere yesterday and took the car. Prior to this the tranny light was staying on and the Eco-thing would not engage. Said the tranny light was NOT on anymore, didnt' remember if the Eco message turned on or not, so hopefully this was a glitch. I have a BlueTooth OBDII scanner that should arrive today (plan to use Torque), so before I drive I'll make sure there isn't any major issues, and still plan to replace the other 3 ABS sensors so I know that won't be a near future issue (I believe this was also a possible cause from reading this and other threads).
 
#33 · (Edited)
UPDATE: My scanner came in (insanely awesome btw...I'll post the link at the end in case anyone is interested) and I was able to see a stored code even though the tranny light went off and everything seems to be working OK. It was 0730, incorrect gear ratio (see pic). I'm hoping the ABS sensor (new and old) made the CPU think something was wrong when it really wasn't. Cleared the code and will keep an eye on it. But will be getting car 90k serviced just as soon as the limited warranty expires next month.

scanner I bought from Amazon for $22. I use a free Android app called Torque (currently using free version but they have a $5 premium version that does more things). Allows you to scan and clear codes but also allows you to drive around with it active showing all sorts of information live.
Edit: Dunno what poster after me means but if it was in reference to a link I've removed it. Been around car forums for 15 years so I'm not here to spam (Probetalk, LS1tech, etc. same screen name).
 

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