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transmission problems?

84K views 76 replies 22 participants last post by  latneyporter 
#1 · (Edited)
I have a 2005 chrysler 300c 5.7L with 100,5xx miles. I think my transmission might be on its way out or maybe its the fluid?

The other day I was driving and it seem like the transmission went into neutral. It wouldn't speed up. I hit the gas and it rev'd up like it was in neutral but didn't go faster. Then it finally went into gear and drove fine.

Another day I was driving to the store and when I would take off at the light it seemed the the transmission was in the wrong gear because it would take off super slow. This happened until I cut the car off. It was fine one I turned it back on. WTF is going on.

So i went to the dodge dealer to have them check my tranny fluid level. They said that my fluid level was ok but my fluid needs to be changed. Could that really make the transmission act this way? I didn't tell them my problems with the tranny.

Help.
Tranny, fluid or tranny computer?



I also have 22" american racing wheels and I was kind of racing my car up the road vs my friends mustang. It never redlined but I did chirp the tires on take off. Hope I didn't break something. These problems didn't start until later in the day after I did that. Most of the time I drive it kind of granny not really reving it past 5000rpm
 
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#3 ·
I too have this problem but my car only has half the miles of yours.
I had the transmission fluid and filter changed on the nag-1 at the dealer and it made no difference and it still occurs a few times a month.
Culprit seems to be the valve body and speed sensor.
Pretty common problem with the 5 speed and for some strange reason no code was thrown.
 
#4 ·
I too have this problem but my car only has half the miles of yours.
I had the transmission fluid and filter changed on the nag-1 at the dealer and it made no difference and it still occurs a few times a month.
Culprit seems to be the valve body and speed sensor.
Pretty common problem with the 5 speed and for some strange reason no code was thrown.
this might be my problem aso. wonder if a fluid flush will work
 
#6 ·
I also have 22" american racing wheels and I was kind of racing my car up the road vs my friends mustang. It never redlined but I did chirp the tires on take off. Hope I didn't break something. These problems didn't start until later in the day after I did that. Most of the time I drive it kind of granny not really reving it past 5000rpm
 
#8 ·
This is from another of my posts on another thread a few days ago with the same issue as yours... I'm just copying and pasting it...

First off what I have to say only applies to a 722.1 Nag1 5 speed transmission, I presume it has that in it. Presuming your transmission level is ok then I would put my money on the speed sensors in the transmission are not communicating with the speed sensors outside the transmission. The speed sensors in the transmission are two little round tabs that quite literally hang off the edge of the valve body by two little copper strands. Over time they start to wiggle back and forth, come loose and make some strange issues such as second gear or third gear pull aways etc... What actually happens is they wiggle and lose communication and if it happens when the car is slowing then the transmission won't downshift from its previous gear as it doesn't know its slowing down. When you pull away the transmission is literally pulling away in whatever gear you stopped in. Quick trick to check is when it does it try to use autostick, if the number doesn't change then that's where my money is. Also try driving it in autostick for awhile and you will see what gear it sticks in. The fix is to replace the electronic portion of your valve body in your transmission, it is a straightforward job (1 1/2hrs'ish) and parts are not outrageous if you buy online. I picked mine up off eBay for $150, there were lots available in Europe as well as this gearbox is shared with multiple vehicles (mercedes, Porsche, Jag etc) and the guts are the same. If you look up 722.1 Nag 1 valve body conductor plate you will see the part. The sensors hanging off the end is a common problem, the new revised part doesn't have the same setup and is supported.

* Flushing it WILL NOT WORK... and will also spread a little crud evenly on your other components... dump the fluid... change filter and the conductor plate on the valve body... refill and reset codes and should fix you up just fine.. I bet I have posted this same thing on 10 different threads in the last 12 months it's so common.
 
#9 ·
ok thanks for the info. I will purchase a conductor plate asap. But the dealer said just a fluid change will not get all the dirty fluid out. Something about just draining it will not get the all the fluid that's in the torque converter and then it will contaminate the new fluid.

is this true or is it ok to just drain and fill. I can do a drain and fill and save money or have the dealer flush it and cost $245 with filter change:eek:mfg:
 
#11 ·
I will be home later today and will post you a step by step on the valve body drop and install... It's fairly straightforward pal. As for the flush... All depends on who you ask, some will claim what the dealers do, others feel a bit like forcing the dirty fluid all around every crevice in your transmission that it wasn't in before with the use of a machine under pressure is a bad thing. Depends how you look at it. Just make sure if they flush it that they do a filter change after as all that crud will be pushed into the filter. Dealers defaults are usually 'needs a flush' for any issues that are intermittent!

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#13 ·
Whole plate is under $200 on ebay.. that's where mine came from and no issues... it's a genuine MB part so good enough for an E55 AMG is good enough for me... Speed sensors are attached to the plate. You cannot change on their own nor do you want to. Just switch solenoids from plate to plate and snap (literally on tabs!) and install and go! Problem is right now that they hang off the plate by two little copper strands.. they wiggle and intermittently make contact (causing lights and limp modes and gear change no go's) and eventually they let go altogether (leave you sitting in 3rd at a light and your going nowhere (or worse still you do and smoke a clutch and your trans is pooched!). The new ones the copper strands are housed in plastic and are protected (there is also one where the copper attach points are riveted so they don't come loose!).
 
#14 ·
Instructions will follow in a few hours... I'm leaving South Beach MIA right now and won't be home for an hour or two with traffic..
 
#15 ·
ok thanks for the much need information. I thought I was gonna have to start saving for another transmission. Good to know its just a $200 conductor plate that i am pretty confident I can install my self. Lucky I check on here before I waste money with a fluid flush at the stealership.
 
#18 ·
#19 ·
Don't worry so much about the listing for what vehicle... all the valve bodies are the same from Sprinter van to an E class.. ;)

Look for 722.6 and Nag 1 in the tag line..
 
#22 ·
Tomorrow I will post up which one I purchased... It's been 10k + now and not a single hiccup. You want a genuine MB part... Mine was.

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#25 ·
#26 ·
Silver06hemic i hope u stay on this forum for awhile because im trying to look sort of like yours and have similar performance. Im picking up some original 300srt8 wheels sunday. Trading him my rims. I am also hoping to install the conductor plate sunday hopefully
 
#33 ·
This is taken from Paramount Transmissions website, I tweaked a couple of things... you can find the full write up with pics at:

Stage II Valve Body Install Guide Paramount Performance Products

Great install guide... I can do it in my sleep now as I've done it a few times on a few cars in the last few years! Honestly I couldn't write it up better than them (I just started and thought there's is better!)

Valve Body REMOVAL

1. Move selector lever to position park

2. Raise vehicle.

3. To disconnect 13-pin plug connector (1)

(a). Rotate the bayonet lock of the adapter plug (2) counter-clockwise.

4. Using a 7mm socket, loosen the adapter plug bolt (9) and remove from the adapter plug (10) from the transmission housing. The 2 Black O-rings should be on this adapter. Many times one of the O-rings will stick in the valve body. Remove it and install it back on the plastic adapter piece.

5. Detach oil pan (5).

6. Remove oil filter (4).

7. Unscrew 10 Torx socket bolts (T30) and remove valve body.


To swap top electrical connector plate:

8. Remove the 3 small bolts & retainers that hold the solenoids down. Note one bolt is shorter.

9. Remove solenoids...noting locations. (just wiggle and pull)

10. The solenoid at the bottom left (converter solenoid) sometimes needs a bit of wiggling to remove.


Unsnapping the electrical connector plate (dipstick side)

11. On the electrical connector side, push the plastic tab toward the long plastic dip stick guide. The plastic pin will pop right out of the steel plate.


Unsnapping the electrical connector plate (slide piston side):

12. Rotate the temperature sensor SLIGHTLY counterclockwise to release the tab from the steel plate.

13. Reverse procedure to install the electrical plate.

14. It will simply clip into position.

15. Re-install the solenoids. They can not be installed in the incorrect position, they won't fit.

16. To install Use the same torque (71 in. lbs.) as all the other torx bolts.

Valve Body INSTALL

1. Position the valve body in the transmission.

2. Insert selector valve in driver of detent plate.

3. Reread #2

4. When installing the valve body in the transmission, the plastic part of the selector valve must engage in the driver of the detent plate.

5. Install the Torx socket bolts and torque to 71 in lbs (NOT FOOT LBS).

6. Install a new oil filter.

7. Install oil pan and torque the pan bolts to 71 in lbs (NOT FOOT LBS).

8. Install the adapter plug into the transmission housing and just SNUG the tiny bolt with a 7mm socket.

9. Check the two O-rings on plug connector. They must be BLACK or they will leak.

10. Replace O-rings and connector if necessary from the dealer.

11. Install the plug connector into the adapter plug. Turn bayonet lock of adapter plug clockwise to connect plug connector.

12. Fill the transmission with ATF+4. It will take approximately 4 quarts +/-.

13. Check the fluid level, it should be approximately 65mm up on a test dipstick (or anything that bottoms on the pan such as a very long clear zip tie) after about 1/2 hour or so of driving.

14. Enjoy the new transmission feel.
 
#35 ·
Transmission problem

Hello, i am new here and i am from Belgium and I have problem with my automatic transmission.

the first problem occured a few weeks ago when my car would not start . i got a message PARK assist system and when i wanted to check my board computer to put the park sensors off, he said my vehicle was not in Park alhough it was so i could not access the board computer.

Suddenly after trying a few times, he started. But a few days ago, the lamp with the engine logo went on and suddenly i started to get problems with shifting and it appeared that at a momen he did not shifted anymore into the next gear. I stopped the car, turned it off. turned it on, and then it goes fine for a while again but after some slowing down and accelarating he doens't want to shift to next gear. The local dealer put my car on the computer to read it out and the computer said my car could not communicatie with the automatic transmission.

SO is this the problem with the sensors inside the transmission and do i also need a new conductor plate or what could be the problem ?

It is a chrysler 300c touring 2.7 from 2005

I hope someone here could help me with this
 
#36 ·
Hello, i am new here and i am from Belgium and I have problem with my automatic transmission.

the first problem occured a few weeks ago when my car would not start . i got a message PARK assist system and when i wanted to check my board computer to put the park sensors off, he said my vehicle was not in Park alhough it was so i could not access the board computer.

Suddenly after trying a few times, he started. But a few days ago, the lamp with the engine logo went on and suddenly i started to get problems with shifting and it appeared that at a momen he did not shifted anymore into the next gear. I stopped the car, turned it off. turned it on, and then it goes fine for a while again but after some slowing down and accelarating he doens't want to shift to next gear. The local dealer put my car on the computer to read it out and the computer said my car could not communicatie with the automatic transmission.

SO is this the problem with the sensors inside the transmission and do i also need a new conductor plate or what could be the problem ?

It is a chrysler 300c touring 2.7 from 2005

I hope someone here could help me with this
If you have a 2.7 then you do not have the same transmission as yours is a 4 speed more than likely. I would say your issue is either in the plug connection going into the transmission or the TCM located under the dash. Check any harness plugging into your transmission and ensure its clean and free of debris. If its all good then have your TCM checked at the dealer... I'm leaning towards the TCM judging on the multiple symptoms and lack of communications.

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#38 ·
If that's transmission then it could be a bad torque converter... It's a hard one to diagnose online as everyone's definition of a lunge can be different! I'm actually sitting the tarmac in a plane in Atlanta returning from a month vacation in the UK... I will chime in later... Hope others can help in the meantime!

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#40 ·
If you've never done a fluid change and you have higher mileage then that could be a problem. If you have lower mileage then its still possible if you have contaminated fluid, moisture can seep into the transmission through a broken dipstick tube seal (there was a tsb for this I think), if so that could have done it. First place I would probably start is with a fluid change and a filter, but your going to need to flush it to get the fluid out of it completely. Usually I don't recommend flushes as they can force under pressure fluid into parts not designed for pressure and cause debris to lodge where it shouldn't. I'm not a huge advocate... But in this instance I would try it first.

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#41 ·
i will drop the pan, change the fluid in it and the fliter, give it a good cleaning, then i will go and get it flushed. that should reduce the amout of trash in it and hopefully it might fix the problem. i will have my fingers crossed. it will have to be some time next week because i have to go and get the car. i will keep you posted. thanks.
 
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