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post #1 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-29-2013, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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transmission problems?

I have a 2005 chrysler 300c 5.7L with 100,5xx miles. I think my transmission might be on its way out or maybe its the fluid?

The other day I was driving and it seem like the transmission went into neutral. It wouldn't speed up. I hit the gas and it rev'd up like it was in neutral but didn't go faster. Then it finally went into gear and drove fine.

Another day I was driving to the store and when I would take off at the light it seemed the the transmission was in the wrong gear because it would take off super slow. This happened until I cut the car off. It was fine one I turned it back on. WTF is going on.

So i went to the dodge dealer to have them check my tranny fluid level. They said that my fluid level was ok but my fluid needs to be changed. Could that really make the transmission act this way? I didn't tell them my problems with the tranny.

Help.
Tranny, fluid or tranny computer?



I also have 22" american racing wheels and I was kind of racing my car up the road vs my friends mustang. It never redlined but I did chirp the tires on take off. Hope I didn't break something. These problems didn't start until later in the day after I did that. Most of the time I drive it kind of granny not really reving it past 5000rpm

Last edited by jwhezzy2003; 04-29-2013 at 06:51 PM.
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post #2 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-29-2013, 05:18 PM
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Yes, transmission fluid can lose it's viscosity (wear out) and won't do the job. Bad or weak fluid can also damage the internal pump. So get it changed.

Michael
2006 300C SRT8
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post #3 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-29-2013, 06:09 PM
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I too have this problem but my car only has half the miles of yours.
I had the transmission fluid and filter changed on the nag-1 at the dealer and it made no difference and it still occurs a few times a month.
Culprit seems to be the valve body and speed sensor.
Pretty common problem with the 5 speed and for some strange reason no code was thrown.
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post #4 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-29-2013, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300thebomb View Post
I too have this problem but my car only has half the miles of yours.
I had the transmission fluid and filter changed on the nag-1 at the dealer and it made no difference and it still occurs a few times a month.
Culprit seems to be the valve body and speed sensor.
Pretty common problem with the 5 speed and for some strange reason no code was thrown.
this might be my problem aso. wonder if a fluid flush will work
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post #5 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-29-2013, 06:32 PM
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Not if the valve body and speed sensor are bad but the first place to start, always, is a flush and fill.
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post #6 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-29-2013, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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I also have 22" american racing wheels and I was kind of racing my car up the road vs my friends mustang. It never redlined but I did chirp the tires on take off. Hope I didn't break something. These problems didn't start until later in the day after I did that. Most of the time I drive it kind of granny not really reving it past 5000rpm
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post #7 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-29-2013, 09:47 PM
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Mine only occurs after it sits for 8+ hours. After it's warmed up it's gone.
Let me know the cost if you get it fixed, I am afraid it might be a $1000 fix.
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post #8 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-29-2013, 10:30 PM
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This is from another of my posts on another thread a few days ago with the same issue as yours... I'm just copying and pasting it...

First off what I have to say only applies to a 722.1 Nag1 5 speed transmission, I presume it has that in it. Presuming your transmission level is ok then I would put my money on the speed sensors in the transmission are not communicating with the speed sensors outside the transmission. The speed sensors in the transmission are two little round tabs that quite literally hang off the edge of the valve body by two little copper strands. Over time they start to wiggle back and forth, come loose and make some strange issues such as second gear or third gear pull aways etc... What actually happens is they wiggle and lose communication and if it happens when the car is slowing then the transmission won't downshift from its previous gear as it doesn't know its slowing down. When you pull away the transmission is literally pulling away in whatever gear you stopped in. Quick trick to check is when it does it try to use autostick, if the number doesn't change then that's where my money is. Also try driving it in autostick for awhile and you will see what gear it sticks in. The fix is to replace the electronic portion of your valve body in your transmission, it is a straightforward job (1 1/2hrs'ish) and parts are not outrageous if you buy online. I picked mine up off eBay for $150, there were lots available in Europe as well as this gearbox is shared with multiple vehicles (mercedes, Porsche, Jag etc) and the guts are the same. If you look up 722.1 Nag 1 valve body conductor plate you will see the part. The sensors hanging off the end is a common problem, the new revised part doesn't have the same setup and is supported.

* Flushing it WILL NOT WORK... and will also spread a little crud evenly on your other components... dump the fluid... change filter and the conductor plate on the valve body... refill and reset codes and should fix you up just fine.. I bet I have posted this same thing on 10 different threads in the last 12 months it's so common.

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post #9 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-30-2013, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver06hemic View Post
This is from another of my posts on another thread a few days ago with the same issue as yours... I'm just copying and pasting it...

First off what I have to say only applies to a 722.1 Nag1 5 speed transmission, I presume it has that in it. Presuming your transmission level is ok then I would put my money on the speed sensors in the transmission are not communicating with the speed sensors outside the transmission. The speed sensors in the transmission are two little round tabs that quite literally hang off the edge of the valve body by two little copper strands. Over time they start to wiggle back and forth, come loose and make some strange issues such as second gear or third gear pull aways etc... What actually happens is they wiggle and lose communication and if it happens when the car is slowing then the transmission won't downshift from its previous gear as it doesn't know its slowing down. When you pull away the transmission is literally pulling away in whatever gear you stopped in. Quick trick to check is when it does it try to use autostick, if the number doesn't change then that's where my money is. Also try driving it in autostick for awhile and you will see what gear it sticks in. The fix is to replace the electronic portion of your valve body in your transmission, it is a straightforward job (1 1/2hrs'ish) and parts are not outrageous if you buy online. I picked mine up off eBay for $150, there were lots available in Europe as well as this gearbox is shared with multiple vehicles (mercedes, Porsche, Jag etc) and the guts are the same. If you look up 722.1 Nag 1 valve body conductor plate you will see the part. The sensors hanging off the end is a common problem, the new revised part doesn't have the same setup and is supported.

* Flushing it WILL NOT WORK... and will also spread a little crud evenly on your other components... dump the fluid... change filter and the conductor plate on the valve body... refill and reset codes and should fix you up just fine.. I bet I have posted this same thing on 10 different threads in the last 12 months it's so common.
ok thanks for the info. I will purchase a conductor plate asap. But the dealer said just a fluid change will not get all the dirty fluid out. Something about just draining it will not get the all the fluid that's in the torque converter and then it will contaminate the new fluid.

is this true or is it ok to just drain and fill. I can do a drain and fill and save money or have the dealer flush it and cost $245 with filter change
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post #10 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-30-2013, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver06hemic View Post
This is from another of my posts on another thread a few days ago with the same issue as yours... I'm just copying and pasting it...

First off what I have to say only applies to a 722.1 Nag1 5 speed transmission, I presume it has that in it. Presuming your transmission level is ok then I would put my money on the speed sensors in the transmission are not communicating with the speed sensors outside the transmission. The speed sensors in the transmission are two little round tabs that quite literally hang off the edge of the valve body by two little copper strands. Over time they start to wiggle back and forth, come loose and make some strange issues such as second gear or third gear pull aways etc... What actually happens is they wiggle and lose communication and if it happens when the car is slowing then the transmission won't downshift from its previous gear as it doesn't know its slowing down. When you pull away the transmission is literally pulling away in whatever gear you stopped in. Quick trick to check is when it does it try to use autostick, if the number doesn't change then that's where my money is. Also try driving it in autostick for awhile and you will see what gear it sticks in. The fix is to replace the electronic portion of your valve body in your transmission, it is a straightforward job (1 1/2hrs'ish) and parts are not outrageous if you buy online. I picked mine up off eBay for $150, there were lots available in Europe as well as this gearbox is shared with multiple vehicles (mercedes, Porsche, Jag etc) and the guts are the same. If you look up 722.1 Nag 1 valve body conductor plate you will see the part. The sensors hanging off the end is a common problem, the new revised part doesn't have the same setup and is supported.

* Flushing it WILL NOT WORK... and will also spread a little crud evenly on your other components... dump the fluid... change filter and the conductor plate on the valve body... refill and reset codes and should fix you up just fine.. I bet I have posted this same thing on 10 different threads in the last 12 months it's so common.
also how hard is it to change the conductor plate? any DIY directions?
also could I just change the speed sensors (2?) off the conductor plate or do I have to change the whole plate and speed sensors? And do speed sensors normal come with the conductor plate or do you have to buy them seperate? thanks

Last edited by jwhezzy2003; 04-30-2013 at 09:19 AM.
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