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Removing driveshaft

31K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  Whipper300 
#1 ·
Any body know the trick for removing the driveshaft on 2005 300 limited? I removed the 6 bolts, 3 at trans, 3 at rear axle, can't get it to come loose. Also removed the 2 bolts holding the carrier bearing. Does it collape a little bit? I want to replace the carrier bearing. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
#2 ·
i would put two saftey straps around it,fairly snug ,make sure tires are blocked
if you are working over a pit,trans in neutral,get your six lb hammer and go
to work.Remember saftey first,dont hurt yourself.
 
#4 ·
Excerpt from the service manual (without associated diagrams):

SHAFT-PROPELLER DESCRIPTION

REAR
WARNING: Due to propeller shaft imbalance concerns, rear propeller shaft service is limited to center support
bearing and coupler replacement only. The rear segment single-cardan universal joint is not serviceable.
Both RWD and AWD models utilize a “two-piece” rear propeller shaft design to transmit torque to the rear axle
assembly. This two-piece design consists of:
Front and rear shaft segments
Center support bearing/bracket assembly
Single-Cardan u-joint at rear segment/bearing interface
Rubber couplers at transmission and rear axle flanges
Fore-mounted vibration damper (V6 Models)

The front shaft segment is designed with a collapsing feature, consisting of two concentric tubes secured by shear
pins. This feature allows the tubes to telescope up to 200 mm (8 in.) during certain impacts.

The flexible rubber couplers at the transmission and axle flanges absorb vibration. The low-travel Single-Cardan
universal joint permits the minimal axial and angular variations that occur with independent rear suspension.
Additionally, models equipped with the V6 engine utilize a vibration damper which is designed to absorb and isolate
driveline vibrations and harmonics. This damper is mounted to the front segment, sandwiched between the coupler
and propeller shaft.

FRONT
AWD models utilize a “two-piece” front propeller shaft design to transmit torque to the front axle assembly. This
two-piece design consists of:
Front and rear shaft segments
Single-Cardan u-joints at end flanges
Rubber boot at front/rear segment interface

REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT
1. Place gearshift lever in NEUTRAL and raise vehicle
on hoist.
2. Remove propeller shaft heat shield.
3. Apply alignment index marks on the propeller shaft and front axle flanges.
4. Remove four (4) front propeller shaft-to-axle flange bolts.
5. Apply alignment index marks on the propeller shaft and transfer case flanges.
6. Remove four (4) front propeller shaft-to-transfer case flange bolts.
7. Remove propeller shaft assembly.

REMOVAL - REAR
CAUTION: Propeller shaft removal is a two-man operation. Never allow propeller shaft to hang from the center
bearing, or while only connected to the transmission or rear axle flanges. A helper is required. If a propeller
shaft section is hung unsupported, damage may occur to the shaft, coupler, and/or center bearing
from over-angulation. This may result in driveline vibrations and/or component failure.
1. With vehicle in neutral, position on hoist.
2. Apply alignment index marks on the transmission
and axle flanges and rubber couplers.
3. Remove crossmember.
4. Remove rear exhaust system.
5. Remove heat shield.
6. Remove propeller shaft front coupler-to-flange
bolts.
7. Remove propeller shaft rear coupler-to-flange bolts.
8. Remove center bearing mounting bolts.
9. With the aid of a helper, remove propeller shaft
assembly.
 
#6 ·
If you have unbolted the front and rear flanges, and the center bearing mounting bolts, you've basically created a noodle so you need a second person to control it.
 
#10 ·
Got it out today, loosened the boot at the carrier bearing, pryed on the damper at axle, got that loose, then removed rear damper from shaft and it slid out without removing the exhaust(really didn't want to remove exhaust). Now to get carrier bearing pressed off and new one on.
 
#11 ·
So if you read this how did everything go reinstalling the axle? im having vibration after hard acceleration that starts then gets worse as speed increases.if I come to a stop then start slow and build up speed slowly very little vibration at all. only after hard to moderate. so Thinking the rubber is breaking down now. Ill check it tomorrow . i wonder what the dealer charges for doing this job? Thanks James
 
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