Ramps for oil change

[NJSRT-8]

I have always changed my own oil.
However , my new '06 SRT-8 sits so low to the ground that I am not able to do it.
My current ramps won't work.
Does anyoe have a recommended ramp that will accomodate the low front end of the SRT-8.
It needs a very low incline and will need to be a lot longer than my currnet ranps ?

Thanks.

[srt8danno]

Here are some links for this topic. Hope they help!

http://www.300cforums.com/forums/srt...ighlight=jacks



http://www.300cforums.com/forums/srt...ighlight=ramps


Rhino Ramps

[GoofyTimL]

Get some differing lengths of 4x1 board. Lay the longer piece first, lay the second piece atop and a little further up the ramp... support with a small block in the middle if need be... and drive on up.

That's what I've been doing with my Heritage Edition and it should work for the MSRT8 (although I haven't even thought about trying it as yet). I think the problem with the MSRT8 is going to be the rubber width more than the lowered level of the front fascia.

[kevenj]

I think you'd have a heck of a time using ramps, as the front fascia sits so low on the SRT8 I don't think you could drive up on them anyway. Plus I've always had problems with the ramps just sliding out of the way when trying to drive the front wheels of a RWD car up on them.

I just use a regular 2.5 ton floor jack (standard size, not one of those flimsy 'trolley jacks' you see) under the lower control arm on the left side of the car. This allows me to jack it up high enough to roll under on my creeper and remove the filter (which is on the right side) and drain plug. Then I lower the car back down where it's level so I make sure all the oil drains out - - making sure not to set the car down on the drain pan of course!. When it's all done draining I jack it up again and replace the plug and install the new filter. Remove pan, set car down level and refill.

I've got a "C" but on my dad's SRT8 all I have to do differentely is first drive the front wheels up on a piece of 2x6 or 2x8 to give me enough clearance to get my floor jack under the front spoiler. You can get lower profile floor jacks now that will eliminate having to do that.

[Moose]

Ramps will work just fine. Do what goofy said and you need to build up small steps with wood to get the proper heigth. Make sure everything is done slow and with a spotter on the first go around.

[kevenj]

my ultimate plan is a lift in my shop That is if I don't do sumthin' dumb like trade my "C" in for an SRT8........ if I do that , no lift for me!

[BrilliantBlackHemi]

I use Rhinoramps with 2x6 lead ins to clear the front fascia. I use a Torin Big Red racing jack, since it is low profile and light. Lifts front and rear with no problem were normal 2 ton steel floor jack hits the plastic before you can get it under the car to the lift points.

[II kings 9:20]

I hope you guys are using back up jackstands when slipping under there on your creepers. If not, then you have a lot of faith.

I ALWAYS use a jackstand as a back up. Suppose your "Made in China" jack decides to fail or the Rhino Ramp collapses?

One other point, make sure you remove the long handle from the hydraulic jack after it is locked. It is very dangerous to have this handle sticking out even if you are working alone.

[FreebirdSRT]

I use a low floor jack, but with my 300SRT lowered it is still impossible to reach under and get a good jacking point.

I am a custom home builder and usually have scraps of lumber on my sites.

I grab various lengths to make my ramp. But you can get a 12' 2x12 at any hardware store and a small box of wood screws.

I take a circular saw and put a 45 degree angle, on the blade. I cut the ends of each level to a 45 so it makes it easy for the car to roll up to each level.

This is the ramp I built sitting under SRTBEE's Bee. We used the ramps eventhough his Bee is not lowered. Made the job of getting to a solid jacking point, from the front of the car, that much easier.


I like to keep the jack in front of the car, if you will be working on the side of the car. Keeps the Jack out of the way.

If you are going to change the oil. I suggest making 2 ramps and allowing the space (length of each level) to make 4 levels. Once the car is up on the top level. You should be able to get under the front and change the earl,lol.

I would also suggest putting a stop on the top level, if you will be rolling up the ramps on your own. If you have a buddy there, they can tell you to stop, at the top level.

You do not need to use ramps for jacking the rear. You can jack the car on each side, from the side. On the OEM jacking points. Or if you want to work on both rear wheel areas or changing your drag radials, at the track. You can jack the rear of the car from the back end. Eventhough we have a independent rear end. There is a pumpkin to jack up the rear. Not a traditional pumpkin. But the car is safe to lift from there. Again, if I am working on the side of the car, I generally like to have the jack at the front or rear of the car. Cuts down on accidental body bumps of the jack. I am a big boy and like a Bull in a China shop,lol.

[FreebirdSRT]

Originally Posted by II kings 9:20

I hope you guys are using back up jackstands when slipping under there on your creepers. If not, then you have a lot of faith.

I ALWAYS use a jackstand as a back up. Suppose your "Made in China" jack decides to fail or the Rhino Ramp collapses?

One other point, make sure you remove the long handle from the hydraulic jack after it is locked. It is very dangerous to have this handle sticking out even if you are working alone.

Jack stands are a very good and safe way to work under a car. Especially if you are taking all 4 wheels off at once. LOL.