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Old 02-22-2008, 04:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
Natas
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Official Natas 300C Build

Thought I'd start my official Chysler 300C Build Thread. Stage 1 is going to be handleing mods. I need to tighten up the 300Cs suspension so that I can compete out on the road coarse. I'm going to upgrade the suspension to AirRides LX kit with Airpod+Levelpro, Hotchkis swaybars, American Racing Torque Thrust Ms on Toyos and a 3-piston big brake kit from TPIS (prototyping on this car). I'm aslo plainning on a trans and power steering cooler and some custom instumentation to let me know what going on. I'll keep this thread updated as stuff starts rolling in and gets bolted on.

First in. 22 x 9.5 Torque Thrust Ms with Toyo Proxes 4 255/35/22

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Old 02-22-2008, 04:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
Natas
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I couldn't find any 2 1/16 gauges that look similar to my factory gauge cluster and I don't really like it when stuff is mismatched. So I decided to make my own gauge faces. I disassembled a set of Autometer ProComp Ultralites. To remove the bezel I used a small standard screwdriver to pry up the edge and then it just slid off. After the whole thing was disassembled I took the gauge face and scanned it into my computer. Working off of the scan in adobe Illustrator I redesigned it to match my factory look.

One very important thing to remember when printing your new gauge face is to select an achievable acid free paper; otherwise the new face will fade in a short order. After the printing I trimmed it to fit and attached it to the old face with spray adhesive and the reassembled the internals (make sure to mark the position of the needle before disassembling), Placed needle and glass back on and then clamped the bezel in position. With a small wooden dowel rounded at one end slowly tap the bezel back over to secure it to the housing. Then just tape it off and repaint to cover up any marks.







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Old 02-22-2008, 05:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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sweet! keep the pics comming!
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Old 02-28-2008, 12:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Just got my new sway bar setup from Hotchkisin the mail.

What Hotchkis Says
Improve cornering by reducing body roll with a set of Hotchkis Performance Sway Bars. Hotchkis bars feature lightweight hollow construction and include greasable polyurethane bushings,and are powder coated for durability. Each bar set has been tested and tuned to ensure the best performance possible.
Specs:
2005-Up Dodge Magnum 2wd
2005+ Chrysler 300/300C
2006+ Charger/SRT8
HP Front Bar - 1 3/8" (35mm)
Stock = 30mm Solid
HP Rear Bar - 3/4" (19mm)
Stock = 15mm Solid
% Stiff over Stock
Front Bar + 30%
Rear Bar + 150%


Last edited by Natas : 02-28-2008 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 02-28-2008, 01:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Also put this on last weekend. SRT8 Style rear spoiler and removed trunk lid badging. Door trim is next on the chopping block.

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Old 02-28-2008, 02:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Car: '07 MSRT8 Bright Silver; '06 H.E. 300C Inferno Red MSRT: AirHammer, OptGrp 1, UCon, ACW flaps, Stealth Bulbs, 22elite armrests/console, pin stripes H.E.: ProtectGrpII, RearVES, Sunroof, UCon, Sirius, ACW flaps/Eng. cowl, 22elite armrests/VES cover
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Your certainly are ambitious! Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing in pix!!!
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Old 03-17-2008, 07:44 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Small update: Molding removal
I recently removed all for the badging and side trim off of my 300. In the process I learned a lot about how the professionals do it and also some easy at home methods that I would like to share.

Stock Side Molding


There is a molding removal tool out there that attaches to an air hammer. You place the metal blade under the molding or badge and cut through the adhesive. It was apparent right away that this tool could be dangerous to the paint in untrained hands.


After scaring myself with the metal removal blade, I decided to go with some 50lbs. test fishing line, sawing through the adhesive.


I've heard using a heat gun, wd-40 or goo-gone with a little help from your thumb is a good way to remove the adhesive. I decided to go with a 3M Eraser Disk ($15). It is the consistency of a pencil eraser and fragments as it peals the adhesive strip away from the paint. You just need to make sure you don't exceed 4,000 rpms and make sure you don't heat the panel up to much. I had a side done in five minutes and had plenty of disk left for other jobs.



Finished Product
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Old 03-17-2008, 08:31 AM   #8 (permalink)
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very informative keep up the good work
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Old 04-07-2008, 04:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Got some new goodies today. Air Ride's Airpod, rear shockwaves, front LX struts, all double adjustables and Levelpro E. Looking to have them installed with in the next couple of weeks. I'll let you know how it goes.

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Old 04-07-2008, 04:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Looks like the program is coming out well

keep posting more pics
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