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My 5th 300

4K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  CARiD 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello everyone. New to the site (not really new but I think this is my first post). I’ve been a 300-enthusiest for over 15 years. In 2001 I purchased a ’99 300M. Since that I’ve owned a ’03 300M Special, ’05 300 Touring Signature Series, ’07 300C RWD, and now a ’13 300C JV Luxury AWD. I bought it late-September with just under 32,000 and currently have a bit over 44,000.

I actually went to the dealership to look at an SRT, but with the JV having less miles, the SafetyTec package, moonroof, AWD options, I couldn’t pass it up. I live in Wisconsin so the AWD is great. In addition to the those options, I think the nicest feature might be the stitched leather components and natural satin-finished wood trim. Although I do suffer from the dreaded leather dash separating from the interior trim by the windshield, it looks so much better than the standard dash. The black headliner is also a nice touch.

It also has the Harman Kardon Audio Group option. I only have this to say about that: if I had spent the original $1,995 upgrade cost for this system, I would be severely disappointed that I spent any money on it. If any of you are into car audio, it didn’t take long before I installed a single JL 13.5” PowerWedge with JL HD750/1. The enclosure fits very snug underneath the rear deck with just enough room for the amp between the enclosure and rear seat. Amazing technology for this sound in this size enclosure and it leaves nearly the entire trunk space.

I haven’t done a lot to it. Probably about all I plan on doing. The windows were already tinted. I added the spoiler, sub, JV Limited clock, straight-pipes in place of the resonators, Magnaflow mufflers in place of the suitcase, drilled/slotted rotors, PVD-coated factory AWD rims, new tires, and also just ordered the AmeriHood SRT-style hood.

I don't have four posts yet so I'm unable to link to the full-res photos, but I have attached a couple for the time being.

Thanks for reading!
 

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#5 ·
Writing a short tutorial on the sub right now. I need a few more posts before I can link to external sites, so I'll post in a little bit after I can find a few threads to comment on.
 
#7 ·
You’ll need a line-level output converter (LOC). This converts the input from your existing speaker wires to RCA for use of an amplifier. I used this one because it was the only one available the day I bought my amp/sub: Metra Two Channel Line Output Converter TC-LOC2 - Best Buy. I just wanted to get the equipment installed quickly and then order this one later: AudioControl LC2i 2-channel Line-Out Converter with AccuBASS Black LC2I - Best Buy. I still have the $15 in line and it seems perfectly fine, so I’m not really convinced I need to spend $100+ on a different one. I’m thinking a more expensive one may be a better purchase if I were converting the speaker wiring from the rear deck speakers as opposed to the factory sub like I used. (More on that below)

You’ll need some wiring. Obviously just purchase an amp wiring kit of appropriate size for the amp you’re powering. I used a very inexpensive Kicker wiring kit also from Best Buy. The cheapest I found online was $100 but I want to say I paid like $50 for mine. The amount of wiring you’ll need will depend on how you want to run the wires and where you want to put the LOC. I put the LOC behind the back seat underneath the carpet when you fold down the seat. Then ran the power and remote wire completely around the edge of the trunk so there were no humps in the middle of the carpet. I probably used 12’ of speaker wire, 8’ of a 4AWG for power, 2’ of 8AWG for ground, and a 3’ RCA cable.

Back to the wiring. Because the factory sub is a few notches below acceptable, I chose to use that wiring as I would be unplugging it anyway. I unplugged the harness from the sub and simply stripped back my speaker wire and stuck it inside the factory plug/harness and taped it up. The gray/brown is positive and dark green/brown is negative. Then on the LOC side, I took the two positives and two negatives and spliced them accordingly to the speaker wire I just ran from the factory sub wiring harness.

For turning on and off the amp, the fuse box is also located in the trunk and just tap into one of the empty fuse holders that turn on and off with the vehicle. I don’t remember which one I used.

 

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#7 · (Edited)
It was pretty simple since our battery is in the trunk.

This is the sub I used: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693256/JL-Audio-CS113TG-TW5v2.html

And the amp: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136HD7501/JL-Audio-HD-Series-HD750-1.html?search=hd750/1&skipvs=T

You’ll need a line-level output converter (LOC). This converts the input from your existing speaker wires to RCA for use of an amplifier. I used this one because it was the only one available the day I bought my amp/sub: Metra Two Channel Line Output Converter TC-LOC2 - Best Buy. I just wanted to get the equipment installed quickly and then order this one later: AudioControl LC2i 2-channel Line-Out Converter with AccuBASS Black LC2I - Best Buy. I still have the $15 LOC in line and it seems perfectly fine, but I do plan on upgrading it one of these days. Edit: I ordered the LC2i last night.

You’ll need some wiring. Obviously just purchase an amp wiring kit of appropriate size for the amp you’re powering. I used a very inexpensive Kicker wiring kit also from Best Buy. The cheapest I found on their site was $100 but I want to say I paid like $50 for mine. The amount of wiring you’ll need will depend on how you want to run the wires and where you want to put the LOC. I put the LOC behind the back seat underneath the carpet when you fold down the seat. I ran the power and remote wire completely around the edge of the trunk so there were no humps in the middle of the carpet. I probably used 12’ of speaker wire, 8’ of a 4AWG for power, 2’ of 8AWG for ground, and a 3’ RCA cable.

Amp/wiring pic. I just velcro'd the amp to the floor. https://www.dropbox.com/s/81bc26o5bqbf7vn/14801054_10154521129056341_1198331104_n.jpg?dl=0

Back to the wiring. Because the factory sub is a few notches below acceptable, I chose to use that wiring as I would be unplugging it anyway. I unplugged the harness from the sub and simply stripped back my speaker wire and stuck it inside the factory plug/harness and taped it up. The gray/brown is positive and dark green/brown is negative. Then on the LOC side, I took the two positives and two negatives and spliced them accordingly to the speaker wire I just ran from the factory sub wiring harness.

For turning on and off the amp, the fuse box is also located in the trunk and just tap into one of the empty fuse holders that turn on and off with the vehicle. I don’t remember which one I used.

Hope this explains everything.
 
#8 ·
Hello and welcome to the forum! Glad to have you here. You're joining a great community. Folks here are very willing to help and share information. Please feel free to reach out to us if you have any questions at all, we are always happy to help!
 
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