Performance General DiscussionDiscussion about performance enhancing modifications. Please select the appropriate sub-forum performance classifications.
The chrysler 2.7 dog of a V6 has a sludge problem with failure common as early as 50K. One of my employee's husband called me with a what should I do question dealing with his 2000 Concorde engine failure. DC agreed to split the cost of the new engine (no design change) and is requiring a 2500 mile oil change. I can assure you, if he did not have proof of oil changes he would have to foot the entire bill. He is considering joining the class action suit re: this engine sludge issue. I detailed this in the synthetic vs conventional thread.,
Yes, I was on Performancempg's web site and found a notice of formulation change for their XL-7500 series oils. They changed because of having to pass some standard (API) for car manufacturers or something, but basically stated they are using re-processed petro oil, and then went on to make a case for it being legally "synthetic" by citing a decision of some court case.
They cited using GROUP III base oils. See the article here:
Well this is a real kick in the teeth, our choice for 5w20 synthetic is limited. I don't want to thicken things up for fear of sludge or worse yet MDS FUBAR. Perhaps Mobil 1 0w20 but it is petro based as well despite claiming fully synthetic. There is a difference even if petro based, I left a qt of Valvoline syn and a qt of conventional outside in the winter and there were huge differences in pourability. I think Redline has a 5w20 but at $8/qt is about as bad as a $2000 Kirby vacuum.
I have trouble imagining a situation where my dealer service dept would equate a problem with my car with oil, or lack of oil changes. I have never had a car problem where my dealer asked me how often I changed my oil.
I have a 1995 Pontiac which I bought new and has been serviced at the same Pontiac dealer since 1995. They never change my oil and they have never asked me how often I change it. That's just my experience. Maybe I have just been lucky.
Well, let me tell you my story! I had a 1986 Mitusbishi Montero, bought new, and with an extended warranty. 4+ years later, during a tune up, a spark plug was frozen in the block, and required major work fix it. Mitsubishi would not honor the extended warranty because I missed a scheduled oil change! It cost me having to buy a "new" rebuilt engine!
Needless to say, I have never bought another Mitsubishi, but also, dealers do look at oil change intervals when acessing coverage of major engine repairs.
Regarding when to start using synthetic oil, I read on ROYAL PURPLES' web site that they recommend not using their oil until at least 2000 miles:
"Royal Purple® currently offers many viscosity grades of API Licensed Motor Oils. (See the Royal Purple® Motor Oil Product Page or visit the API Engine Oil Licensing and Certification Website for more information). To allow for proper breakin of the engine, Royal Purple® recommends waiting until the manufacturer's first scheduled oil change or a minimum of 2,000 miles in new gasoline engines. Allow 8,000 to 10,000 miles before using Royal Purple® in diesel engines."
Others say there is no difference and you can use synthetics from the start.
Porsche, BMW, Corvette come with synthetic oil from the factory. I waited until 1900 miles to go to syn exactly 1 week ago. I don't think it really matters and break in just gives us something to talk about, I doubt there really is a break in period though admittedly I follow a break in schedule.
Anyone know if Castrol Syntec is any good? After reading a bit about some of these synthetics, they really aren't anything more than reprocessed regular oil.
Heard good things about AMSOIL and maybe MOBIL1 and ROYAL PURPLE, but what about CASTROL?
Anyone know if Castrol Syntec is any good? After reading a bit about some of these synthetics, they really aren't anything more than reprocessed regular oil.
Heard good things about AMSOIL and maybe MOBIL1 and ROYAL PURPLE, but what about CASTROL?
i've been using syntec for about 10 years now on all my vehicles (including my lawnmower). i am VERY pleased with this product, it seems to have some type of molecular adhension to metal that promotes exceptional friction reduction. i have personal examples of this.
i've been using syntec for about 10 years now on all my vehicles (including my lawnmower). i am VERY pleased with this product, it seems to have some type of molecular adhension to metal that promotes exceptional friction reduction. i have personal examples of this.
BMW recommends and uses Castrol. Too bad our Kmart closed. I am a little ticked to learn the Amsoil XL series is reprocessed like so many other "synthetics". I looked at the bottle and it says synthetic, not fully or 100% synthetic. I may go back to Mobil 1 or consider Castrol Syn. The non sale price for a 5qt jug of Mobil 1 is $19.86 at Wal-Mart. I also know lots of races are won with Mobil 1. I have a case of Amsoil 2000 Full Synthetic for the Sienna but it is 5w30 and I do worry about an MDS FUBAR with a thicker oil.
Last edited by II kings 9:20; 08-23-2004 at 12:11 PM.
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