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Old 05-16-2008, 01:28 PM   #621 (permalink)
chuckkent
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kevenj, Seriously if you don't like Chrysler oil and filters. My choice would be Mobil One and make sure its the right weight for your engine and Purolator One filter. This oil has come down in price and will meet all of the requirements at a reasonable price. Purolator filters are good main stream filters without being too pricey. I apologize for the juvenile antics on this thread but I hate not poking a hot button every now and then...Plus I don't want anyone to stroke out do to unnecessary meanness. There are many ways to skin this cat and this is just one.... hope that helps......
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Old 05-16-2008, 02:48 PM   #622 (permalink)
II kings 9:20
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Purolator makes Chrysler Filters. You might look at Napa Gold and Purolator Pure One (a cut above the base Purolater with an upgraded filter media) also.

Last edited by II kings 9:20 : 05-16-2008 at 02:49 PM.
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Old 05-16-2008, 05:34 PM   #623 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northern300c View Post
Seeing most are group 3 synthetics now, all of them are practically the same in most conditions.

The only differences are if you go up the the Group 5 PAO based oils that are really expensive and don't offer the protection difference for the price.
Redline is one of the best and it is truly syn...also royal purple is very good..
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Old 05-16-2008, 05:38 PM   #624 (permalink)
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Funny, you argue for conventional oil, yet you use synthetic. Kinda oxymoronic don't you think? And no one was talking about the most expensive synthetic out there, he was talking about synthetic in general so don't start to twist the story around.

Nah, I know sythetic is better but I would not condemn someone if they ran dino oil especially if they did not intend to keep the car long term, such as leases. I thought he was saying that there was no reason to spend $10 on synthetic if you can buy it for less...



I dare you to run around on 40-44psi tires. I have driven around on 35psi tires that were overinflated just because the temperature is higher in the spring and I forgot to let some pressure out and it was like I was driving around on rocks.[/quote]

You first!!!!
Actually I run 33 all around.
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Old 05-16-2008, 06:08 PM   #625 (permalink)
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Chase300, no, just oil that was cost performance, dino, blend, or syn.. I was told by the service manager Chrysler 5W20 was a syn blend...well I'm not sure after some of the comments but I do know it was made specially for MDS cars and I do believe it is good oil.....I never said I put 40 psi in my tires....I said 35 cold. I said you could put 40 but it would ride like a log wagon.....(Goodyear max safe pressure is 44 cold) 35 is what I have run for years and I always get near or more than the warranty mileage and I never run them down to less that 4/32s. Yes they are a little harder but I generally get 10K more miles on them. Is it worth it? You be the judge... The weather has been cool here so my TMs say 33/34 and that's close enough for now. So what's your beef??????
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Old 05-16-2008, 07:49 PM   #626 (permalink)
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Chase300, no, just oil that was cost performance, dino, blend, or syn.. I was told by the service manager Chrysler 5W20 was a syn blend...well I'm not sure after some of the comments but I do know it was made specially for MDS cars and I do believe it is good oil.....I never said I put 40 psi in my tires....I said 35 cold. I said you could put 40 but it would ride like a log wagon.....(Goodyear max safe pressure is 44 cold) 35 is what I have run for years and I always get near or more than the warranty mileage and I never run them down to less that 4/32s. Yes they are a little harder but I generally get 10K more miles on them. Is it worth it? You be the judge... The weather has been cool here so my TMs say 33/34 and that's close enough for now. So what's your beef??????
No beef here. I agree for the most part. 35 psi I'm sure is fine....like I said I run 33 and don't really notice a difference from the stock 30 in ride quality.
Also, as I said, I'm sure any 5W20 will work fine in the 5.7 hemi as long as its the proper API rating the factory recommends. I like the better flow and thermal properties of synthetic, but I tend to keep my cars a while and have never had less than 200K miles on them before I got rid of them. Last one I sold had 285K and only used 1 qt. between its 5K oil change interval. That's what sold me on Mobil 1.
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Old 05-16-2008, 10:35 PM   #627 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckkent View Post
Chase300, no, just oil that was cost performance, dino, blend, or syn.. I was told by the service manager Chrysler 5W20 was a syn blend...well I'm not sure after some of the comments but I do know it was made specially for MDS cars and I do believe it is good oil.....I never said I put 40 psi in my tires....I said 35 cold. I said you could put 40 but it would ride like a log wagon.....(Goodyear max safe pressure is 44 cold) 35 is what I have run for years and I always get near or more than the warranty mileage and I never run them down to less that 4/32s. Yes they are a little harder but I generally get 10K more miles on them. Is it worth it? You be the judge... The weather has been cool here so my TMs say 33/34 and that's close enough for now. So what's your beef??????
You are full of Shiat. You said in your own words that you should put them up 40psi if you were on highway which is complete BS.

Here, I will jog your short memory seeing you seem to forget all the crap you said in the past in order to try and bury it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckkent View Post
If you want your tires to last longer raise the cold inflation pressures to 35, and if you drive at high speeds add additional air up to 40 psi to avoid excessive tire flexing heat.
Look familiar? You typed the words.

The full 44psi load rating is only when carrying large extreme loads and not for just driving around town seeing the extra weight will level the tread when the high load is applied when you jack the tire pressure up.

Stop trying to condone or say that people can pump their tires up to 44psi without a problem. They can do so only when the tire is under maximum load conditions.

Last edited by Northern300c : 05-16-2008 at 10:36 PM.
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Old 05-16-2008, 10:37 PM   #628 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Husker View Post
Redline is one of the best and it is truly syn...also royal purple is very good..
Royal purple is more marketing than really good oil.

Redline on the other hand is a true PAO Group 5 synthetic oil and is believed to be the best out there. Mind you, it comes at a cost which in my opinion doesn't relate to a better protected engine.
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Old 05-17-2008, 07:09 AM   #629 (permalink)
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Redline rules in my book. I too can't justify using it over Mobil1 given my oil change intervals.
I use their MTL in my manual gearboxes and it makes them shift like a hot knife into butter. I would not use any other oil in a manual trans and I've tried many different brands.
I also use Redline oil in the rear diff., but have also used Mobil 1 as its much easier to obtain.
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Old 05-17-2008, 07:46 AM   #630 (permalink)
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Hey, I'm done.. I might copy some documents on this subjects if I find some short to the point but as far as arguing anymore..........

Last edited by chuckkent : 05-18-2008 at 09:03 AM.
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