Inoperative Cruise Control

[DESIREE]

Twice this week my cruise control would not engage. The light on the stalk is on and speed was sufficient. Repeated efforts over a 20-mile drive failed. The first time I had to pitstop and tried it immediately after getting back on the road, and it worked. The second time it happened I turned the engine off at a traffic light and tried it once underway again, and it worked!

Anyone having any similar issue?

Oh yeah, three mornings ago the remote failed to unlock the car. I unlocked with the key and set off the horn. The horn stopped upon starting the engine. All has been fine since.

I think I have an onboard gremlin - again!

Looks like it's time to take'er in for a checkup.

[GoofyTimL]

I know that activation of the ESP will disengage the cruise, but I think that actually turns it off (light on stalk goes out). Doesn't seem that's likely what happened to you. Definitely have it checked with the dealer... they might be able to pick up a thrown code that will pin down the problem IF you have it happen and go directly there without turning off the car.

[DESIREE]

Originally Posted by GoofyTimL

I know that activation of the ESP will disengage the cruise, but I think that actually turns it off (light on stalk goes out). Doesn't seem that's likely what happened to you. Definitely have it checked with the dealer... they might be able to pick up a thrown code that will pin down the problem IF you have it happen and go directly there without turning off the car.

I generally run around with ESP off. I never noticed cruise control being disabled or turned off by ESP being on or off. I can understand how, if cruise was on and ESP detected a skid, that it would knock the cruise off. But that's not what's happening. I also thought maybe the "brain" is sensing that the brakes are applied and the cruise is supposed to be off? This car has had several codes involving a faulty brake switch. The last time it had one they finally replaced the switch! I did not pull to the side of the road to see if the brake lights were on. If it happens again, I will!
When this started happening I tried all combinations of ESP on or off when turning on and engaging the cruise control. I even switchedd off my MDS indicator LED circuit. Made no difference. If there is a code it didn't turn on the check engine light. I can easily enough go to my selling stealership, especially on my way home from work when they will have someone on-hand who could do a quick scan. I really don't care to have to visit these people as they really turn me off with their attitude.

However, today I believe I found the gremlin causing the the doorlocks not to function. When I started the car today to do the 18K-mile oil change the EVIC flashed a warning that the RKE battery was low. Ahha I thought, that explains alot! So after finishing the oil change I took a bit of time to review the EVIC which looked like this:

And then I whipped out the owner's manual to see what battery the RKE uses. Interestingly it also said the battery should last a minimum of three years, and DESIREE is only 16 months old.
Kind of strange thought I. And then it got even stranger.
I popped the cover off to get at the battery and what to my wondering eyes should appear but TWO defective solder joints (out of three total) of the "C" clip that mechanically holds the battery disc to the circuit board, and provides electrical connection of the (+) side of the battery to the circuit. The two broken solder joints had allowed the "C" clip to pop up and released the (-) side of the battery from contact with the trace on the circuit board. I didn't think quick enough to take a picture, just set about to repairing the dumb thing. To me it looked like those solder joints may have let go when the battery was first originally inserted. Or they were cold joints to start with and just gave up mechanically. The clip does exert quite a bit of force on the battery. Sliding the battery back in after fixing the solder joints required due care to get the battery slipped into and under the clip.

Well at least I don't have to bring this gremlin to the stealership to be discovered.

[GoofyTimL]

Glad you found that, but frankly, I haven't a clue as to what the RKE is or why it would require a battery. Please educate me!

[JustForFun]

RKE = Remote Keyless Entry.

It refers to the system which allows you to push the button on your key fob and lock/unlock the car doors.

JFF

[GoofyTimL]

So was it the battery in the key fob, or somewhere in the car?

[JustForFun]

Originally Posted by GoofyTimL

So was it the battery in the key fob, or somewhere in the car?

Yes and no.

It was inside the key fob. The battery powers the circuit board inside the fob sahich is the transmiitter which talks to your car's circuitry and allows the system to work. Also, if the car doess't sense that this key fob circuit is present, your car will only start and run for a short tiem and then will shut down. Having a working, charged battery present (or at least near the ignition) is critical to your car's operation. It won;t do it without it.

What he discovered however, was that the battery wasn't low or dead. The clip inside the key fob which holds the cell battery was actually "detached" from the circuit board in 2 of the 3 solder connections. He redid the solder joints and was back in action.

JFF

[DESIREE]

Originally Posted by JustForFun

Yes and no.

It was inside the key fob. The battery powers the circuit board inside the fob sahich is the transmiitter which talks to your car's circuitry and allows the system to work. Also, if the car doess't sense that this key fob circuit is present, your car will only start and run for a short tiem and then will shut down. Having a working, charged battery present (or at least near the ignition) is critical to your car's operation. It won;t do it without it.

What he discovered however, was that the battery wasn't low or dead. The clip inside the key fob which holds the cell battery was actually "detached" from the circuit board in 2 of the 3 solder connections. He redid the solder joints and was back in action.

JFF

What he said.

The battery is a CR2032, a common calculator-type battery about the size of a quarter, available at Radio Shack. The owner's manual explains how to replace it yourself. I went in after it to assure that corrosion wasn't the issue because 16-months of battery life is way too low.

PS - the cruise control worked perfect yesterday.

[jcsganga34]

Originally Posted by JustForFun

What he discovered however, was that the battery wasn't low or dead. The clip inside the key fob which holds the cell battery was actually "detached" from the circuit board in 2 of the 3 solder connections. He redid the solder joints and was back in action.

JFF

I had the same problem with my key fob. I am dangerous with a soldering iron though so I had the circuit testers at my work re-do the work and the FOB is back to being new. I had the car for about 18 months when my FOB started having the problem. I am sure that this is going to become a more common occurrence. I opened up my second Key FOB just to get a look at the soldering and I am sure this one will eventually detach as well, the quality of the job does not look good. Anyway, maybe I'll have some preventitive work done and have it re-soldered before it breaks

[DESIREE]

Originally Posted by jcsganga34

I had the same problem with my key fob. I am dangerous with a soldering iron though so I had the circuit testers at my work re-do the work and the FOB is back to being new. I had the car for about 18 months when my FOB started having the problem. I am sure that this is going to become a more common occurrence. I opened up my second Key FOB just to get a look at the soldering and I am sure this one will eventually detach as well, the quality of the job does not look good. Anyway, maybe I'll have some preventitive work done and have it re-soldered before it breaks

My second key is on my wife's keyring. I was thinking of using it until I could get around to picking up a replacement battery, but fixing the solder joints ended that idea. I will be taking a look at hers now that this condition is obviously more widespread than my 1/3 acre of the globe.

As an electrical/electronics design/build/repair enthusiast I have seen lots of cold solder joints (not all of my making!). The problem usually, as is the case here, stems from soldering a relatively large heatsink (as the battery clip here is) into a circuit where the other soldering requirements are light duty. Here the clip just sucks the heat away quicker than it is applied and the resulting joint is mechanically and electrically sub-standard, and with time will be evidenced by a failure. To further aggravate the situation they probably have a 240-pound guy who is all thumbs inserting the battery!

The truth be known, the wife and I don't know whether her key might be having a similar problem because SHE HAS NEVER DRIVEN THE "C"! If she ever has to she won't be able to figure out where to put the key because the lock isn't on the steering column like every other car she has ever driven. We haven't even set her seat/mirror/pedal/radio/steering wheel position preferences into memory. No matter as they probably would have been lost, like mine, in the dozen or two times that my settings were for no apparent reason.

Whoa be those who have to replace their key once they are out of warranty!