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Old 11-16-2007, 07:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
Stuntin300C
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Angry Transmission Issues 300C

Just purchased a used '05 300C (39,6xx miles) from a new&used car dealership. Test drive was fine with no problems. Drove around for about 35 minutes.

The bank ws already closed so I came back the next day to purchase which was just 2 days ago on wednesday.

The very next day after the purchase, the nightmare began which was thursday (11/15).

Check engine light came on, wouldnt engage in reverse, hard shifting (a lot of hard clunking when shifting), sometimes it wouldnt even want to shift and stayed in 3rd.

Slap stick had no response. Slap it left, no change, slap it right, no change. This stayed the same at all speeds. I could be stopped no change, i could be doing 25, 45, 65 no change.

When I start the car, CEL stayed on yet I could use the slap stick to manually change gears until I hit over 25-30 mph then it became inactive and Drive only existaed as an option.

That night I went to autozone to check the codes and got P0700 and P2767

P0700 - Transaxle control system fault. ECM received a signal that the transaxle control module has a fault.

P2767 - Input/Turbine Speed Sensor "B" Circuit No Signal


I got home and after being overly upset about paying $22,000 cash for a car with obvious problems I finally fell asleep awaiting the morning when I would take the car into the dealership.

I take it to the dealer by my house (the one I bought it from wasnt a chrysler dealer). The service department must have not liked me or something and told me they wouldnt look at the car. I had to drive an hour and a half to a chrysler dealer I used to deal with before I moved out of the area.

They were packed, I had no appointment and they managed to look at the car. However they deny the car showing codes P0700 and P2767. They say the only code it was showing was P2638 which was not tripped at all to my knowledge. Just so we are clear on this I did not clear the codes after reading them.

The dealer said the car was fine, it needed to have the recalled radiator brackets changedbut I took it anyway and made an appointment for next tuesday to drop it off for the radiator recall. (Thats a whole other issue, car has 39,000 miles and the recall was never addressed).

Anyway, I drive back on my hour and a half journey home all is fine. I get home thinking life is good, simple computer problem, reset and all fine. I go to pick up some dinner with my gf and what do you know CLUNKKKKK! check engine light trips again. F #*&$#*( CK!!!!!

I get so pissed off I decide to try and slap stick it down and see if that at least works. What do you know, it works!

At this point im doing about 40-45, I STOMP ON THE GAS - slap left left left left left i see it jump from 4 - 3 - 2 - 1 huge scream, belt chirp RED LINE shifts into 2nd MASSIVE ACCELERATION shifts to 3rd HARD with a clunk wow! now its stuck in 3rd! YAY!

I have to pop it into neutral and then into Drive and it reset back to drive and 3rd went away but it was still stuck in 3rd. At the next light I had to put it in park turn it off, turn it on and then drive and it went back into 1st and corrected itself for the time, shifted ok but it still did not allow slap stick action.

Ive owned a 04 z06 vette and i swear to god the acceleration I felt when the glitch occurred was 2x the acceleration of the z06. I also realize doing that most likely injured my trans in the process. Buying a lemon doesnt help control my pissed off rage at that moment in time.

Checked the codes again. Same codes P0700 and P2767. No where am I getting a P2638.

My conclusion:

Dealer does not want to change out the TCM
AND/OR
Dealer had no time plus it being friday just wanted to charge me $60 to clear the CEL and send me off.

The real BS is when they state - "Checked and road tested could not duplicate condition."

Either way, from other threads I have found elsewhere P2767 with the speed sensor could be an actual sensor that is faulty or the actual tcm is shot and needs to be replaced.

If I could get the car on a lift and work on it myself I would be a happy camper, unfortunately I have no lift and no workspace so Im at the mercy of idiots that could care less about my situation. Funny thing is, if theyd actually just listen to me and fix the freaking car id be happy to shell out any amount they request. I got this car because I wanted to experience the good things ive heard about it and all im seeing is the bad side. Can someone please help me with a bootleg diagnosis? I know you are unable to see the car but from what i'm saying someone will surely be able to give educated guesses. I thank you in advance for the shoulder to cry on.

Car info:

39,700 miles
2005
300C
Price paid: $20k + tax/reg

$20,000 for a very nice looking POS as of right now.

On a whole other level - Salerno Duane of Newton New Jersey most likely cleared the codes the car had on it, with some sort of miracle the test drive didnt spring the engine light on me and I was sold a car with some major issues. I plan on paying some homeless dudes to stand outside their dealership with signs for the next 3 months. No joke. It's too much of a coincidence that not even 12 hours after purchasing the car the CEL comes on and they wouldnt offer me a warranty because "it still has some of an existing warranty from chrysler". Some serious crooks at this place with fubar'ed used cars.
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Old 11-16-2007, 08:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
joey
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Sorry to hear about your problems with your new car.

First, the 2005 comes with a 7yr power train warranty for 1st and 2nd owners. You should ask the dealer to run your VIN to see if you qualify for a warranty transfer. You will have to pay $150 to transfer the warranty.
Here is a link to download the Owners Manual which explains the warranty.
My Chrysler: Chrysler Owners Service Manuals - Chrysler Cars, Minivans, SUVs, Convertibles, Crossovers



Second, it is strange your local dealer will not service your car. Something is wrong here. Ask to speak to the owner. Or, have your spouse or friend take the car into the local dealer.

Here is what the Service Manual says about the trouble codes.
There are too many possible causes of the problem.
The dealer is the only one that is going to be able to find the problem.



P0700-TRANSMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM (MIL REQUEST)
For a complete wiring diagram Refer to Section 8W.
² When Monitored:
Ignition on and battery voltage greater than 10 volts.
² Set Condition:
An active DTC is stored in the TCM. One Trip Fault. Three good trips to turn off the MIL.
Possible Causes
DTC PRESENT IN THE TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE
Always perform the Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
Diagnostic Test
1. DTC PRESENT IN TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE
This is an informational DTC letting you know that a DTC(s) is stored in the Transmission Control Module.
Erase this DTC from the PCM after all Transmission DTC(s) have been repaired.
Using a scan tool, read the Transmission Controller DTC and refer to the Transmission Category and perform the appropriate symptom.
PCM Diagnostic Information complete.
Continue
Test Complete

P2767-INPUT SPEED SENSOR 2 CIRCUIT NO SIGNAL
Theory of Operation
The Input Speed Sensor 2 (N3) is one of two hall effect speed sensors that are used by the Transmission Control Module (TCM) to calculate the transmissions turbine speed. Since the turbine speed could not be measured directly, two of the drive elements are measured. Two input speed sensors are required because both elements are not active in all gears.
² When Monitored:
Engine speed greater than 450 RPM with none of the following DTCs present: engine speed, TCM undervoltage, output speed sensor, and/or rear wheel speed DTCs. Also required are all wheel speeds above 250 RPM
and no wheel slip detected (signal from the ABS system).
² Set Condition:
If the Input Speed Sensor 2 (N3) signal is equal to 0 RPM.

Possible Causes
(T72) SENSOR SUPPLY VOLTAGE CIRCUIT OPEN
(T71) INPUT SPEED SENSOR 2 (N3) SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN
(T71) SPEED SENSOR 2 (N3) SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORT TO ANOTHER CIRCUIT
(T13) SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN
(T13) SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT SHORT TO ANOTHER CIRCUIT
(T71) SPEED SENSOR 2 (N3) SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
(T13) SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
INPUT SPEED SENSOR 2 (N3)
TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE
Always perform the NAG1 Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding. (Refer to 21 -TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 - STANDARD PROCEDURE)

Diagnostic Test
1. CHECK IF DTC IS CURRENT
NOTE: The Transmission Control Module stores under Environmental Data the transmission operating conditions when the DTC was set. Before erasure of any DTC, record all information pertaining to the DTC, even if there is more than one DTC stored.
With the scan tool, erase transmission DTCs.
Using the Environmental Data previously recorded, drive the vehicle and try to duplicate the conditions in which the DTC originally set.
Did the DTC P2767 reset?
Yes >> Go To 2
No >> Go To 10

2. CHECK THE (T72) SENSOR SUPPLY VOLTAGE CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Turn the ignition off to the lock position.
Disconnect the TCM C2 harness connector.
Disconnect the Electrohydraulic Control Unit Assembly harness connector.
NOTE: Check connectors - Clean/repair as necessary.
Measure the resistance of the (T72) Sensor Supply Voltage circuit from
the TCM C2 harness connector to the Electrohydraulic Control Unit
Assembly harness connector.
Is the resistance below 5.0 ohms?
Yes >> Repair the (T72) Sensor Supply Voltage circuit for an open.
Perform NAG1 TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST - VER 1. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Go To 3

3. CHECK THE (T71) INPUT SPEED SENSOR 2 (N3) SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (T71) Input Speed Sensor 2 (N3) Signal
circuit from the TCM C2 harness connector to the Electrohydraulic Control
Unit Assembly harness connector.
Is the resistance below 5.0 ohms?
Yes >> Repair the (T71) Input Speed Sensor 2 (N3) Signal circuit for an open.
Perform NAG1 TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST - VER 1. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Go To 4

4. CHECK THE (T13) SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
Measure the resistance of the (T13) Sensor Ground circuit from the
TCM C2 harness connector to the Electrohydraulic Control Unit Assembly
harness connector.
Is the resistance below 5.0 ohms?
Yes >> Repair the (T13) Sensor Ground circuit for an open.
Perform NAG1 TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST - VER 1. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Go To 5

5. CHECK THE (T71) INPUT SPEED SENSOR 2 (N3) SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO ANOTHER CIRCUIT(S)
Measure the resistance of the (T71) Input Speed Sensor 2 (N3) Signal
circuit to all the other circuits in the Electrohydraulic Control Unit
Assembly harness connector.
Is the resistance below 5.0 ohms between the (T71) Input Speed Sensor 2 (N3) Signal circuit and any other circuit(s) in the Electrohydraulic Control Unit Assembly harness connector?
Yes >> Repair the (T71) Input Speed Sensor 2 (N3) Signal circuit
for a short to another circuit(s).
Perform NAG1 TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST - VER 1. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Go To 6

6. CHECK THE (T71) INPUT SPEED SENSOR 2 (N3) SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
Measure the resistance between ground and the (T71) Input Speed
Sensor 2 (N3) Signal circuit.
Is the resistance below 5.0 ohms?
Yes >> Repair the (T71) Input Speed Sensor 2 (N3) Signal circuit
for a short to ground.
Perform NAG1 TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST - VER 1. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Go To 7

7. CHECK THE (T13) SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO ANOTHER CIRCUIT(S)
Measure the resistance between the (T13) Sensor Ground circuit to all
the other circuits in the Electrohydraulic Control Unit Assembly harness
connector.
Is the resistance below 5.0 ohms between the (T13) Sensor Ground circuit and any other circuit(s) in the Electrohydraulic Control Unit Assembly harness connector.
Yes >> Repair the (T13) Sensor Ground circuit for a short to another circuit(s)
Perform NAG1 TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST - VER 1. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Go To 8

8. CHECK THE (T13) SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
Measure the resistance between ground and the (T13) Sensor Ground
circuit.
Is the resistance below 5.0 ohms?
Yes >> Repair the (T13) Sensor Ground circuit for a short to ground.
Perform NAG1 TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST - VER 1. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Go To 9

9. CHECK THE INPUT SPEED SENSOR 2 (N3) SIGNAL
Reconnect the Electrohydraulic Control Unit Assembly harness connector.
Using a Lab Scope, backprobe the (T71) Input Speed Sensor 2 (N3) Signal circuit at the TCM C2 harness connector.
WARNING: Properly support the vehicle.
Raise all drive wheels off the ground.
Start the engine.
WARNING: To avoid personal injury or death, keep hands and feet clear of rotating wheels.
Place gear selector in drive and increase vehicle speed to engage 2nd gear.
Compare the scope pattern on the Lab Scope with a typical 5-volt square wave pattern.
Is the scope pattern comparable to the typical 5-volt square wave signal scope pattern?
Yes >> Using the schematics as a guide, check the Transmission Control Module (TCM) terminals for corrosion, damage, or terminal push out. Pay particular attention to all power and ground circuits. If no problems
are found, replace the TCM per the Service Information. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULES/TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE - DESCRIPTION)
Perform NAG1 TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST - VER 1. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/ TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Replace the Input Speed Sensor 2 (N3) per the Service Information. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/ TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG /ELECTROHYDRAULIC UNIT - DISASSEMBLY)
Perform NAG1 TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST - VER 1. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/ TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 - STANDARD PROCEDURE)

10. INTERMITTENT WIRING AND CONNECTORS
The conditions necessary to set this DTC are not present at this time.
Using the schematics as a guide, inspect the wiring and connectors specific to this circuit.
Wiggle the wiring and connectors while checking for any possible open or shorted circuits.
Check for any Service Information Tune-ups or Technical Service Bulletins that may apply.
Were there any problems found?
Yes >> Repair as necessary.
Perform NAG1 TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION
TEST - VER 1. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/
TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC -
NAG1 - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Test Complete.

P2638-TORQUE MANAGEMENT FEEDBACK SIGNAL PERFORMANCE

Theory of Operation
The Transmission Control Module (TCM) requests torque reductions over the CAN bus during a transmission shift to
improve shift quality. The TCM verifies that the PCM / ECM has performed the requested torque reduction by monitoring
the response to the request. If the response is not within a specified tolerance, the TCM increments a
counter, and if this counter reaches a threshold, the DTC sets.
² When Monitored:
Engine intervention active for at least 20 ms, no engine torque errors, engine torque demand is greater than 0.
² Set Condition:
Torque Reduction acknowledge bit - not set, no shift aborts, the error flag Torque Reduction Acknowledge is
not set, Powertrain controller not supporting torque requests.
Possible Causes
CAN BUS CIRCUIT DTC PRESENT
TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE
POWERTRAIN / ENGINE CONTROL MODULE
Always perform the NAG1 Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding. (Refer to 21 -
TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
Diagnostic Test
1. CHECK FOR ENGINE DTC PRESENT
With the scan tool, check engine DTCs.
Are there any engine DTCs present?
Yes >> Refer to the 9 - ENGINE ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS and diagnose the appropriate symptom.
Perform NAG1 TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST - VER 1. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/
TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Go To 2
2. CHECK FOR CAN BUS DTCS
With the scan tool, check for any CAN bus DTCs or a sign of a CAN bus failure.
Are there any CAN bus DTCs present in any module other than the TCM or an overall indication of a
CAN bus communication problem?
Yes >> This is an indication of a CAN bus communication problem. Depending on the DTC, either refer to the
module reporting the DTC and perform diagnostics for the appropriate symptom or refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL
- ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULES - ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS and perform the appropriate
symptom.
Perform NAG1 TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST - VER 1. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/
TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Go To 3

3. CHECK IF DTC RESETS
Turn the ignition off to the lock position.
Replace and program the Powertrain Control Module per the Service Information. Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC
CONTROL MODULES/POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE for the appropriate service procedure.
With the scan tool, record the Environmental Data and erase Transmission DTCs.
NOTE: If the TCM detects and stores a DTC, the TCM also stores the vehicles operating conditions under
which the DTC originally set and is located in scan tool under Environmental Data. Before erasing any
stored DTCs, record any available data to assist in duplicating the conditions in which the DTC originally
set.
Using the Environmental Data recorded earlier, test drive the vehicle while trying to duplicate the conditions in which
the DTC originally set.
With the scan tool, read Transmission DTCs.
Did the DTC P2638-TORQUE MANAGEMENT FEEDBACK SIGNAL PERFORMANCE reset?
Yes >> Using the schematics as a guide, check the Transmission Control Module (TCM) terminals for corrosion,
damage, or terminal push out. Pay particular attention to all power and ground circuits. If no problems
are found, replace the TCM per the Service Information. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC
CONTROL MODULES/TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE - DESCRIPTION)
Perform NAG1 TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST - VER 1. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/ TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Test Complete.
Perform NAG1 TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST - VER 1. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/ TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 - STANDARD PROCEDURE
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Old 11-16-2007, 08:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Welcome to the forums, Stuntin300C. How terrible to hear such problems with your newly purchased 300c and the lack of dealer support. It just doesn't make sense. Don't forget that you can also use the Dodge/Jeep Dealerships for service as well. It might be worth your $$ to run a CARFAX Vehicle History Report on your vehicle just in case there is something in its background that would be very important to know.

Joey.....Thanks for posting up such valuable information for Stuntin. I was quite overwhelmed after reading what he went through and how to respond. You did good!

Stuntin, please follow through with the information and let us know what happens next.

We're cheering for you!
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Old 11-16-2007, 09:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Joey and Bruno, Thank you so very much for your replies to this post. Each hour that passes I'm going slightly crazier just thinking about everything that is going on and it is very comforting to get feedback.

I realize there is absolutely no way to know everything that is going on with the car but I sense it is not a very major problem such as an actual broken part as in metal piece, most likely a lot of smaller electronic components that are all malfunctioning in unison.

I ran a carfax on this 300c before buying it, i did all my homework. I just sold my z06 vette and my hummer within the last year and I was looking to get a reasonable car with style and a nice amount of power. I've always loved the look of the 300 and the C had the affordable power I was after. I was going to get another H2 but I decided on the 300c. I looked at about 15 different cars before buying and while I passed the dealer i saw a lonely 300c amongst GMC's and Mitsubishi's. I hated the color at first and the mileage was yelling stay away. There were a handful of other cars in the 20,000 mile range even with navigation for the same price. Anyway, for some reason I was drawn to this car to get it. The night before I got the check from my bank I had a dream that the dealer was going to screw me, wellit came true sorry to say.

The chrysler dealer by my new house completely treated me with disrespect. I did not have an appointment but they did not even want anything to do with me. The other dealer I took it to over an hour away had 15 other appointments but said yeah bring it on down and got to it that day even though they completely missed the entire problem.

Do I look for another dealer to take it too now since this one failed to find the problem? I purchased the car to enjoy it and I really dont care at this point how much green paper it takes to fix this thing even though it is under warranty. I just want an operational 300c and I feel like I was robbed. I'm even thinking maybe I should just take it and trade it in for a hummer and lose an instant $10,000 on the trade.

Any suggestions on what to do would be greatly appreciated. I just need some positive reinforcement from others who share the same appreciation of the 300. I just hate the fact that any dealership I bring it to how do I know they are even going to be straight up with me? Money talks and they wont even accept money because they think im going to bribe them and sue them for taking an extra $100 to be honest with me. These types of problems go far beyond the simple car industry. Dealers dont want to fix the problem because its money and time on their end fixing a car that wasnt purchased on their lot and they cant charge for a warranty applicapable service so skimp on the job ahhhhhhhh. Sorry for my incomplete thoughts and babble I just really feel like absolute crap. I had so many good ideas for this car too im ready to scrap the project.
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Old 11-16-2007, 09:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Don't let your local dealer win.
Call and make an appointment in the morning.
I have found it is better to just let the dealer figure out the problem, instead of telling them the trouble codes. Everytime I try to tell my dealer about TSB's they just get a blurry look in their eyes. They have their own way/process of solving problems and don't want to listen to you.

Did you pay for a warranty transfer?
It doesn't appear that way, based on what you have posted. So you probably are going to have to pay for the repairs.
So the dealer is not working for warranty hours/reimbursement.
The radiator bracket was probably free because that was a recall.
I think recalls are free, whether under warranty or not.


Looking at trouble code P2767, all the possible fixes are sensor related.
As you said, it probably is something simple, like a sensor replacement, or maybe a TCM or ECM flash update. Sensors are relatively cheap, and usually easy to replace.

Don't give up yet. The dealer experience is your problem right now. The car can be fixed once they get into it.
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Old 11-16-2007, 10:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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well not sure about your state but in michigan you get soo many days after you buy the car to actually return the car even if it is used if it turns out you absolutely hate it or something is severly wrong.
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Old 11-17-2007, 08:07 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I would take it right back to the dealer you bought it from, warranty or not. Hey, you paid over 20G's for it. Dump it back in their lap and let them sort it out. Salerno Dwayne is a major dealership. They should stand behind what they sell, period.
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Old 11-17-2007, 08:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The "buyers remorse" and cool down periods are a myth. When it comes to law unless the dealer gave me a signed paper stating I am free to return the car within 72 hours I cannot do anything since I already signed the retail order that protects them against this type of thing.

I really dont want to dump the car as weird as that may sound, because then theres going to be a broken 300c pushed on someone else. I would never wish this on anyone, not even my worst enemy to go through this. I see my only option as getting it repaired and if more things arise then oh well im the $20k sucker.

I purchased the car to drive it and now its going to need to sit at a dealer for who knows how long, all of them say they are booked solid through thanksgiving and beyond. Its going to sit in my driveway undriven, that thought alone is enough to make me sick.

Thanks everyone for replying. I'll let you know what comes of this in the upcoming week.
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Old 11-17-2007, 09:10 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Make sure you fill out the paperwork to get the powertrain warranty transferred...you only get a certain amount of time to do this.
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Old 11-17-2007, 03:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
Stuntin300C
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Does the car have a mind of its own? Technically yes....

I just purchased a code scanner and diagnostic tool. Same codes are being spit out P0700 and P2767. I cleared the codes turn the key to off and unplugged the tool from the OBDII port.

After this I tried to hard reset everything by pulling the fuse as stated elsewhere on the forum.

After this I did the gas pedal reset for the throttle position setting and took it on 3 test drives.

Everything is now fine except at times the slap stick does not let me take it down if i push it to the left. Its like the feature is unavailable it doesnt matter if im going 10 mph or 70 mph. This gets corrected when I turn the car off and back on then I am able to select any gear.

I made an appointment to have it looked at not this week but next week after thanksgiving so we'll see what happens. No more codes are being spit out which is leaving me very uncertain and ive been driving it a few hours after I did the initial 3 test drives. I've been driving it really hard and nothing is wrong now.

If anyone ever has anything crazy like this happen I guess resetting everything does the trick but I still believe there is a small sensor error or some kind of faulty connector causing the slap stick problem.

The mystery continues.
Stuntin300C is offline  
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